[DeTomaso] Bypass (Re: thermostats)

[Barry Seib]

John

I have offended you. I'm sorry and I apologize for my careless words. I
never meant to sound like it was your fault that I got a Stant thermostat
that I wasn't happy with. You probably did more scientific testing than I
did! Your recommendation is field tested and mine is just theory. I didn't
like the way the Stant thermostat that I got looked when I boiled it open so
I ordered the Evans E3005 and decided it looked like it would flow better
than the Stant. I found your article on cooling very helpful and I have used
your plan to shape my own modifications. Thank you for the time and effort
you put into documenting it for the rest of us. I'm thankful for your
generous contributions to the Pantera knowledge base and I've benefitted
personally many times from your help in the past. I hope you will forgive
me.

Barry

-----Original Message-----
From: John Taphorn [mailto:jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 9:38 PM
To: Barry Seib; DetomasoList; Asa Jay Laughton
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Bypass (Re: thermostats)


Barry

I've assumed that the Stant flows superiorly.  However, I would like to make
a comparison test.  Other than measuring the speed in which a caldron of
boiling water is drained, I'm unsure how to conduct the test.

Although, I am confident that Goran may have a solution.

I'd like to buy the Stant from you, let me know your price.

Thanks
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry Seib" <oldwheel at mts.net>
To: "DetomasoList" <detomaso at realbig.com>; "Asa Jay Laughton"
<asajay at asajay.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 11:18 AM
Subject: [DeTomaso] Bypass (Re: thermostats)


> It doesn't matter which location you block. I put an expansion plug in the
> center of the copper disc in the engine outlet. Others use a thin sheet to
> block the bypass at the pump joint gasket. Either way, you are eliminating
> the leakage of hot coolant back into the engine without going  to the rad.
> Some aftermarket pumps don't even have a bypass passage. My flowkooler has
> the bypass, so I had to block it.
>
> When the Cleveland style stat is fully open (hot) the foot on it still
> allows some coolant to flow back to the engine, bypassing the rad. In
> theory
> this should be an insignificant amount, but in a marginal system with long
> pipes, I wonder how much it contributes to the issue? I looket at the gap
> and it seemed like it would be a loss. I'm using NPGR coolant, so I want
> the
> absolute maximum flow I can get. If I have to convert back to ehylene
> glycol, my cooling system will be optimised already.
>
> Barry
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
>
> Okay, so if a person uses a remote bypass thermostat, what do you do
> with the thermostat area in the block?  There is a bypass passage
> where the thermostat goes which the -special- 351C thermostat closes
> when the stat is fully open.  So do we block that?  Or must you make
> the water pump mod instead, which installs a small shim of steel to
> block the recirculation path?
>
> Pardon me for my confusion, I'm not studying this very hard.  (trying
> to get some real work done in between emails)
>
> Asa Jay
>
> Quoting Barry Seib <oldwheel at mts.net>:
>
>> Jack
>>
>> I bought a very good remote bypass thermostat from Evans Coolant(E3005
>> Remote by-pass thermostat 195°)
>> http://www.evanscooling.com/main1.htm - go to catalog then Thermostats
>> and
>> caps. $99.95  I'm quite happy with it.
>>  It is made by Behr in Germany and has the least restriction I could find
> in
>> a remote bypass stat. Evans said it was about the same restriction as the
>> high flow Robert Shaw type in the engine. I previously special-ordered
>> the
>> Stant model 135478 that was recommended in John's article, but found it
>> lacking in flow capacity. I still have it new in the box if anyone wants
> to
>> use it.
>>
>> Barry
>>
>
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