[DeTomaso] (no subject)

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 6/8/09 11:27:24 AM, steveblum2 at msn.com writes:

> I tried to adjust the clutch and fould a leak in the flex line from the 
> chassis to the slave cylinder.
> After replacing the line I attempted to bleed the slave cylinder. It would 
> not bleed. I removed the bleeder and found no hole for the fluid to enter 
> inside the bleeder. I then ordered a new slave cylinder but beofre 
> attempting to change it tried to find the steps in the manual. My manual has 
> nothing about changing the cyliner. It appears straight foward but that is how I 
> usually get in trouble. Any suggestions before I start?
> 
On our '72 L, the plastic line from slave to chassis block was 
metric-threaded such that a stock dash-4 AN fitting (with an o-ring on the nose going 
into the chassis fitting) screwed in and sealed perfectly. So I added a dash-4 
pipe-to-AN fitting to the slave, and ran a ss aeroquip line up to the 
slave.
It sounds like the bleed hole in the bleeder needle is plugged solid with 
varnish; I've had to DRILL varnish deposits out of plugged brake caliper 
bleed needles. A never-drilled needle would mean this clutch has NEVER been 
air-bled; unlikely but if so, adding the missing 1/8" long fluid/air passage 
could be easily done with a drill press or even a hand drill. 
The slave cylinder comes out of the bracket with snap-rings, once the hose 
and connecting bolt (or pin) is removed from the slave rod to the bellcrank 
lever. If the pin is stuck, do NOT hammer on it. The bellcrank lever is cast 
steel and WILL break if brutalized. No new spares are available and usable 
replaements are rare (and costly). It may be easier to remove the whole 
bolted-on bracket, remove the rod from the slave (dumping fluid all over 
eveything)and work on the pin at that point. Good luck- J Deryke



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