[DeTomaso] More time to plan

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 6/7/09 8:01:10 AM, boyd411 at gmail.com writes:

> I am looking for opinions on roller rockers ann the advantages or 
> disadvantages of going with an electrical fuel pump with a carb. Is there an 
> advantage over a simple mechanical fuel pump ?   I assume I would need a fuel 
> regulator an a return line too. I have also been thinking about going with 
> oversize brakes to install when I put on bigger wheels (either 17 " front and 
> 18 " back or 18" al around) I have read mixed opinions about 6 pistons 
> calipers vs 4 piston. Any opinions on specefic setups ...
> 
Over the years, I've done all this to our Pantera, and these are my 
opinions, Boyd: 
Full roller rockers will reduce friction in the valvetrain and thus reduce 
oil temps; one source claims up to 10 degrees F lower oil temps. The valve 
guides may last longer, too. Any power increases come from the reduced 
friction, but they also allow running a mechanical cam. They require guide plates, 
hardened pushrods and rocker studs, with the heads converted (or 
aftermarket heads) to 'Boss' spec go with them. A sort-of system is the Crane assembly 
that uses patented guideplates with replaceable plastic grommets. With 
this, no head swaps or machining, and stock bolts and stock pushrods can be 
used. The Crane system sin't as strong nor as rigid as the 'Boss' stud system.

An electric fuel pump has no real advantage I've ever found over a good 
mechanical, except for easy starting. An electric pump can be switched on to 
fill up the float bowls for quick starts while a mechanical must rely on 
cranking the engine to fill the bowls. And 351-C-specific mechanical pumps aren't 
available in a wide assortment these days. Electric pumps are sensitive, 
too; you can overload and fail them running a gas tank dry a few times. Some 
electric pumps need a regulator while most come preset for the correct 
pressure; if you're the non-trusting type, a regulator plus a gauge will add 
complication plus $50-$100 to the cost. Most carbureted electric pumps do not use 
a return line but some high-buck race pressure regulators do.

Big brakes add considerable cost but may not be necessary: the definitive 
test is, on a clean, dry road, you run up to speed and slam on the binders, 
preferably with an observer standing on each side of the road. If you cannot 
lock up the tires (any tires) with a panic stop, you need bigger brakes for 
the tires you have. If two or more wheels DO lock up, you need more tire 
area, not bigger brakes, and depending on which end locks, you may need a 
proportioning valve as well. Brake size vs tire area is a complex balancing act. 
All big brakes on smaller tires do is make the whole system very sensitive 
and uncomfortable to drive on wet or dirty pavement.

6-piston calipers look trick, cost much more than 4-piston, are heavier and 
really need a larger bore master cylinder to push the extra fluid 6 pistons 
need to squeeze the rotor tight. Adding 6 piston calipers to a stock master 
will allow the brake pedal to travel nearly to the floor in 'average' 
stops. All 'big brakes' don't fit all aftermarket wheels, either; check before 
paying for your parts. And since big aluminum wheels, giant tires and big 
brakes (with wider, large diameter rotors) weigh quite a bit more, to keep the 
same handling you had as-stock, you'll need better shocks, heavier springs 
and quite possibly, bigger swaybars front and rear. Finally, big wide tires 
really require a chassis stiffening system to keep the paint from flexing and 
body panels from cracking due to the higher cornering forces they generate. 
All this runs into mucho extra money you might not have considered.... Good 
luck- J Deryke


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