[DeTomaso] Brake Fluid (Re: Wilwood brake problems)

[Asa Jay Laughton]

Did I mention that Amazon sells ATE Type 200 (gold) and Super Blue brake 
fluid?  It's actually carried by two different race houses, but if you 
have an account with Amazon, it is Sooooo easy to order (cheapest I 
found overall too, including shipping).  And you can order it by the 
case if you like.

Got me a couple liters of each color, so I'm set for the season.  :)

Asa Jay

Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired

& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA

1973 Pantera L 5533
[ASASCAT]
    
******************************     
http://www.asajay.com
http://www.351c.info
  



MikeLDrew at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/3/08 3 04 24, wdemelo at cogeco.ca writes:
>
>
>   
>> 1) I have Wilwood calipers and rotors and they were squealing real bad. I 
>> machined the rotors and sanded the pads. It's not as bad, but they're still 
>> squealing. Is this normal?
>>
>>     
>>>> That depends.   What kind of pads do you have?
>>>>         
>
> And don't say "Wilwood".   Wilwood makes a dozen different pads right now, 
> plus they made different pads back in the day.   So *exactly* what kind of pads 
> do you have?
>
> I had Wilwood Gator pads in my car, which came from Dennis Quella as part of 
> his brake package.   They were called that because they were painted a very 
> vivid green.   They created an enormous amount of dust, as well as brake squeal.
>
> Brake pad technology has come a very long way since then (early 1990s).   
> Hawk HP+ pads are reckoned to be among the best, along with Wilwood's "Smart 
> Pads".   I have the Hawk pads in my Cobra, and they're great.   I have the 
> Smart-Pad BP20 in my Pantera and have been very happy with them as well (although 
> they still generate a bit more dust than I'd like, certainly more than the Hawks 
> do).   The BP10 might be a better choice if you don't drive on the track, but 
> I liked the torque curve of the BP20, which works better the hotter it gets.
>   
>> 2)The car pulls to the right on braking and the right tire will lock if I 
>> brake hard. I don't have a propotioning valve. The caliper is working fine. 
>> What could it be? The rotor thickness between right and left is only .01 apart. 
>> Opinions?
>>
>>     
>>>> Probably one or more stuck pistons in your LEFT caliper--your left brake 
>>>>         
> isn't working properly.   Or, you might have an obstruction in the brake line.  
>  When was the last time you changed your brake fluid?
>
> I just (today) ordered a one-man pressure bleeder, after having used one at 
> Chris Difani's house to effortlessly pressure-bleed the brakes in my Scirocco.  
>  This thing is cheap, excellent quality, and will deliver superior results to 
> the traditional methods.
>
> http://www.motiveproducts.com/
>
> The European bleeder comes standard with an adapter that fits the stock 
> Pantera clutch and brake master cylinders.   Since I have an aftermarket Ford-style 
> master, I had to purchase an additional rectangular adapter, and since my 
> Cobra uses a VW Beetle reservoir, another adapter for that as well.
>   
>> 3) I hear/feel noises from what I think are the pads in the calipers. Anyone 
>> else have this problem with Wilwoods?
>>
>>     
>>>> Dennis Quella makes special anti-rattle springs which eliminate any pad 
>>>>         
> rattle.   I don't hear anything in my car, even though I don't have those 
> springs.   Over the years, Wilwood used different methods to secure the pads in the 
> calipers; some are more secure than others, I guess?
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> **************
> Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
>       
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
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