[DeTomaso] Flame Thrower in Fire Position Re: Camshaft selection
Mad Dog Antenucci
teampantera at yahoo.com
Tue Oct 2 00:24:42 EDT 2007
Flamethrower in ON position
OKAY FIRE!!!!!!!!!!!
Okay, someone needs to say it since you are all kissing one anothers bumpers on this cam and max 10.5:1 compression issue...living in the past or retiring in the future.
Since 99.9% of you will NEVER see any kind of competitive open track or open road race in a Pantera and nothing near WOT none of you need a performance build since it sounds like all of you want an engine that will last 250,000 miles. ;-]> Better check with your mommies first though on running too much compression or cam! ;-]>
I'm running 11.4:1 compression with a mild Comp Cam Hyd. roller with .600+ lift with mild ported and massaged 302B alum heads and mild 90-91 octane pump gas.....no problem GI.
Both Dan Jones and Russ Fulps convinced me after allot of discussion that this build would work and it has worked well. I trust Dan and Russ on this real world advise. I don't have detonation on the street but I also do NOT race or run WOT without adding race fuel before I run the motor hard. Race fuel is always available at open road and open track events. But 90% of my engines run time is on the street. Its not a race engine build and its running on pump gas 90-95% of the time.
Looking forward to adding Mike Trusty's IR-EFI system this winter and seeing if we can push 'streetable RWHP over 450, running on the street and running a lot faster in open road race events.
Recently heard at a TPOC meeting here in SoCal:
"Mommy, can you build an engine that will make 500HP that will last 250,000 miles?"
You babies and gramma's are scared of your own shadows.
BOO!
Mad Dawg
JDeRyke at aol.com wrote:
10-1/2:1 should be fine with the hi-octane gas you mention and the aluminum
CHI cylinder heads, but I wouldn't go higher or you could wind up being forced
to run aviation fuel or expensive racing gas, or severely retarded ignition
timing. If a std lift roller cam and notched lifters is put into a 351-C,
you'll get 16 massive oil leaks each time the cam revolves! So, some retrofit
roller cams use cut down cam cores to keep the roller wheels from protruding into
the huge oil galleries behind the tappet bosses. The thinner camshaft will
then be a little weaker than normal and will twist under heavy valve spring
loads, which unfortunately must be used with the 351-C's big valves and heavy
hydraulic roller lifters. Running such a cam at high revs might cause camshaft
breakage or at least give flexible camshaft timing to confuse your tuning
efforts.
What seems to work better for street cars is shrouded-roller hydraulic
lifters that use slightly smaller rollers with a lifter body that is cylindrical all
the way down past the roller wheel. So normal cam lift doesn't cause an oil
leak and a stronger normal-thickness camshaft can be used. Crane uses such
lifters on some retrofit roller cams. As always, for a specific cam for an engine,
I recommend calling a few cam grinders on their Tech Lines and asking the
people who build the things for advice.
A last note- my Ford-SVO A-3 aluminum cylinder heads specify no more than 175
lbs closed valve spring pressure. Any heavier and the hard valve seats will
begin to sink into the soft aluminum. Open pressure is not a problem. Good luck
with your build- J DeRyke
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Mad Dawg Antenucci
Team Pantera Racing
The 1st & still the only vintage race team in open road racing
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