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In a message dated 2/3/14 11 59 1, Larry@ohiotimecorp.com writes:<BR>
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</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" SIZE="2">I had a friends 72 that would loose slave travel when it warmed up. It got so bad you had to double pump the clutch to shift when hot.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" FACE="Geneva" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" SIZE="2"><BR>
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</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" SIZE="2"> It turned out to be the clutch master, I did not think it would get that hot in there.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" FACE="Geneva" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" SIZE="2"><BR>
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>>>As to your friend, I would guess, right cause, wrong conclusion.<BR>
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I would say the problem your friend had was simply air in the lines. As the car heated up, the air expanded and the hydraulics lost effectiveness.<BR>
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When you change the master cylinder, you necessarily purge and bleed the system. Hey presto, it works now! However, I suspect that purging it with the old components in place would likely have had the same effect.<BR>
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When a clutch master fails, it's not temperature-dependent. Often the pedal will feel fine one time, and the next time you step on it, it just plunges to the floor with no clutch actuation, and then the next time, it works. The symptoms you describe (heat-related failure) where there is a clear relationship between temperature of the components, and their effectiveness, almost always points to simple air in the system.<BR>
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Getting all that air out can be a PIA. One thing some people forget is that the bleeder has to be at the high end of the system. I've seen a clutch slave installed inverted, so that the line came in the top and the bleeder was beneath it. Yes, he had problems too, until we flipped it around....<BR>
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Mike</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" FACE="Geneva" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" SIZE="2"></FONT></HTML>