[DeTomaso] Overheating problem

Daniel C Jones daniel.c.jones2 at gmail.com
Mon Jul 15 17:35:55 EDT 2024


> Next time you have the bulkhead off you could mark the flywheel.

When you do this, realize you will be looking at the engine from behind and
not in front.  I didn't take that into account when I marked my flywheel so
now I have timing marks at 24, 28, 32, 36 degrees retarded, not advanced.

Dan Jones

On Mon, Jul 15, 2024 at 4:17 PM Asa Jay Laughton via DeTomaso <
detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:

> +1  Recommended
>
>
> In my case I used a small tapered punch and smacked a dimple on the
> flywheel for TDC.  I then put one at 10 and again at 32 (if I recall; I may
> be wrong on the final dimple).  I think I may have also used alpha-numeric
> punches to say which was which.  Been a long time and the flywheel went to
> Steve Lisa along with the rest of the car.  😁
>
> That made it so much easier to track timing without taking the bulkhead
> cover out.
>
> Asa  Jay
>
> Sent via radio waves
>
> > On Jul 15, 2024, at 13:48, George B <gkb1968 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >    John,
> >
> >   Next time you have the bulkhead off you could mark the flywheel. Put
> >   crank to TDC on damper (or use a piston stop if you don't trust it or
> >   don't want to remove interior). Then Sharpie a line on the OD of
> >   flywheel with a corresponding dot/line on the inner edge of the bell
> >   housing inspection hole. Use an adjustable timing light which is very
> >   inexpensive these days. Then you can check time properly in minutes no
> >   tools required.
> >
> >   I've used this technique since 2001 with very good results and a lot
> >   less cursing about taking the roll cage and seats out for a 5min job.
> >
> >   George
> >
> >   Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> >   Get [1]Outlook for Android
> >     __________________________________________________________________
> >
> >   From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of
> >   John Neal via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> >   Sent: Monday, July 15, 2024 1:47:59 PM
> >   To: georgesekula at outlook.com <georgesekula at outlook.com>;
> >   mikeldrew at aol.com <mikeldrew at aol.com>
> >   Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> >
> >   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
> >
> >   Retarded Timing can cause overheating and dieseling when the engine is
> >   turned off.  I adjusted mine so the engine is hard to turn over when
> >   hot and then backed the timing off until the engine cranks freely when
> >   hot.
> >    Way less work then pulling the seats and bulkhead to connect a timing
> >   light.
> >   In a message dated 7/15/2024 11:57:44 AM Central Standard Time,
> >   georgesekula at outlook.com writes:
> >     Thank you all for your help. Dozens of attempts, three times I could
> >     idle for 30 minutes without an excursion, then 10 minutes on the
> >     highway and the temperature climbs.  Drained oil and found no
> >     contamination.  No smoke out the tailpipe.  No little air bubble,
> >   just
> >     volcano like eruptions.  Did a combustion-gas-in-coolant test four
> >     times with no combustion gas detected.  When I did a cylinder leak
> >   down
> >     test on cylinder 3, pointer was in the red and coolant was
> >   overflowing
> >     the pressure tank.  I have some work to do, hoping it is just the
> >   head
> >     gasket.
> >       __________________________________________________________________
> >     From: Mike Drew <mikeldrew at aol.com>
> >     Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 5:05 PM
> >     To: George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
> >     Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> >   <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> >     Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
> >     George,
> >     The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of trapped air in
> >     the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an iterative
> >     process that can take several days (for complete cooldown between
> >     bleeds).
> >     With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car elevated, the
> >     pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running. When the
> >     thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank, practically
> >   emptying
> >     it, at which point you should top it off.
> >     This will make a big fat mess.
> >     Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank after the
> >     thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly full. Then
> >     install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the overflow is
> >   about
> >     half full.
> >     When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow so the
> >     pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is reduced. If your
> >     cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank level will
> >     be down and the overflow will remain the same.
> >     After a few cycles it should resolve itself.
> >     As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle, knowing that
> >     it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose from the
> >     overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn't get onto the tire.
> >     It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing but
> >     eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping.
> >     Good luck and please keep us posted!
> >     Mike
> >     Sent from my iPad
> >>> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
> >>     wrote:
> >>
> >>   I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water pump
> >     and
> >> thermostat.  New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new
> >     overdrive
> >> pully.  The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via
> >     Summit
> >> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat
> >     several
> >> times and it opens at exactly at180F.  The dimensions match their
> >> website.  The original bypass restrictor is still installed, with
> >   a
> >> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16".  It acts like there
> >   is
> >> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut
> >   the
> >> engine off.  Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank and
> >     the
> >> water temperature instantly raises 30F.  When you start the engine
> >> everything acts normal.  You can feel the water start to flow in
> >     the
> >> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature
> >     holds
> >> perfect for a while.  Then the temperature slowly climbs.  Driving
> >     the
> >> car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The two
> >> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they
> >   are
> >     not
> >> detecting this hot water.  When I filled the system, the bleeder
> >   on
> >     top
> >> of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it
> >   higher
> >> than the block and tanks.  The temperature sender in the top of
> >   the
> >> block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added
> >     tubing).
> >> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while topping
> >     off
> >> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it
> >   was
> >     not
> >> drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180
> >   that
> >     I
> >> installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two
> >     large
> >> pusher fans.  What is the best method for filling the system to
> >     prevent
> >> trapped air?  Are there other things that I need to check?
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> >>
> >> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
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> >>
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-------------- next part --------------
   > Next time you have the bulkhead off you could mark the flywheel.
   When you do this, realize you will be looking at the engine from behind
   and not in front.A  I didn't take that into account when I marked my
   flywheel so now I have timing marks at 24, 28, 32, 36 degrees retarded,
   not advanced.
   Dan Jones

   On Mon, Jul 15, 2024 at 4:17a-PM Asa Jay Laughton via DeTomaso
   <[1]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:

     +1A  Recommended
     In my case I used a small tapered punch and smacked a dimple on the
     flywheel for TDC.A  I then put one at 10 and again at 32 (if I
     recall; I may be wrong on the final dimple).A  I think I may have
     also used alpha-numeric punches to say which was which.A  Been a
     long time and the flywheel went to Steve Lisa along with the rest of
     the car.A  d-
     That made it so much easier to track timing without taking the
     bulkhead cover out.
     AsaA  Jay
     Sent via radio waves
     > On Jul 15, 2024, at 13:48, George B <[2]gkb1968 at hotmail.com>
     wrote:
     >
     > i>>?A  A John,
     >
     >A  A Next time you have the bulkhead off you could mark the
     flywheel. Put
     >A  A crank to TDC on damper (or use a piston stop if you don't
     trust it or
     >A  A don't want to remove interior). Then Sharpie a line on the OD
     of
     >A  A flywheel with a corresponding dot/line on the inner edge of
     the bell
     >A  A housing inspection hole. Use an adjustable timing light which
     is very
     >A  A inexpensive these days. Then you can check time properly in
     minutes no
     >A  A tools required.
     >
     >A  A I've used this technique since 2001 with very good results and
     a lot
     >A  A less cursing about taking the roll cage and seats out for a
     5min job.
     >
     >A  A George
     >
     >A  A Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
     >A  A Get [1]Outlook for Android
     >A  A
     A __________________________________________________________________
     >
     >A  A From: DeTomaso <[3]detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com>
     on behalf of
     >A  A John Neal via DeTomaso <[4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
     >A  A Sent: Monday, July 15, 2024 1:47:59 PM
     >A  A To: [5]georgesekula at outlook.com <[6]georgesekula at outlook.com>;
     >A  A [7]mikeldrew at aol.com <[8]mikeldrew at aol.com>
     >A  A Cc: [9]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
     <[10]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
     >A  A Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
     >
     >A  A Retarded Timing can cause overheating and dieseling when the
     engine is
     >A  A turned off.A  I adjusted mine so the engine is hard to turn
     over when
     >A  A hot and then backed the timing off until the engine cranks
     freely when
     >A  A hot.
     >A  A  Way less work then pulling the seats and bulkhead to connect
     a timing
     >A  A light.
     >A  A In a message dated 7/15/2024 11:57:44 AM Central Standard
     Time,
     >A  A [11]georgesekula at outlook.com writes:
     >A  A  A Thank you all for your help. Dozens of attempts, three
     times I could
     >A  A  A idle for 30 minutes without an excursion, then 10 minutes
     on the
     >A  A  A highway and the temperature climbs.A  Drained oil and found
     no
     >A  A  A contamination.A  No smoke out the tailpipe.A  No little air
     bubble,
     >A  A just
     >A  A  A volcano like eruptions.A  Did a combustion-gas-in-coolant
     test four
     >A  A  A times with no combustion gas detected.A  When I did a
     cylinder leak
     >A  A down
     >A  A  A test on cylinder 3, pointer was in the red and coolant was
     >A  A overflowing
     >A  A  A the pressure tank.A  I have some work to do, hoping it is
     just the
     >A  A head
     >A  A  A gasket.
     >A  A  A
     A __________________________________________________________________
     >A  A  A From: Mike Drew <[12]mikeldrew at aol.com>
     >A  A  A Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 5:05 PM
     >A  A  A To: George Sekula <[13]georgesekula at outlook.com>
     >A  A  A Cc: [14]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
     >A  A <[15]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
     >A  A  A Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
     >A  A  A George,
     >A  A  A The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of
     trapped air in
     >A  A  A the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an
     iterative
     >A  A  A process that can take several days (for complete cooldown
     between
     >A  A  A bleeds).
     >A  A  A With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car
     elevated, the
     >A  A  A pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running.
     When the
     >A  A  A thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank,
     practically
     >A  A emptying
     >A  A  A it, at which point you should top it off.
     >A  A  A This will make a big fat mess.
     >A  A  A Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank
     after the
     >A  A  A thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly
     full. Then
     >A  A  A install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the
     overflow is
     >A  A about
     >A  A  A half full.
     >A  A  A When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow
     so the
     >A  A  A pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is
     reduced. If your
     >A  A  A cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank
     level will
     >A  A  A be down and the overflow will remain the same.
     >A  A  A After a few cycles it should resolve itself.
     >A  A  A As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle,
     knowing that
     >A  A  A it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose
     from the
     >A  A  A overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn't get onto the
     tire.
     >A  A  A It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing
     but
     >A  A  A eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping.
     >A  A  A Good luck and please keep us posted!
     >A  A  A Mike
     >A  A  A Sent from my iPad
     >>> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula
     <[16]georgesekula at outlook.com>
     >>A  A  A wrote:
     >>
     >>A  A I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water
     pump
     >A  A  A and
     >> thermostat.A  New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new
     >A  A  A overdrive
     >> pully.A  The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via
     >A  A  A Summit
     >> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat
     >A  A  A several
     >> times and it opens at exactly at180F.A  The dimensions match
     their
     >> website.A  The original bypass restrictor is still installed,
     with
     >A  A a
     >> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16".A  It acts like there
     >A  A is
     >> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut
     >A  A the
     >> engine off.A  Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank
     and
     >A  A  A the
     >> water temperature instantly raises 30F.A  When you start the
     engine
     >> everything acts normal.A  You can feel the water start to flow in
     >A  A  A the
     >> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature
     >A  A  A holds
     >> perfect for a while.A  Then the temperature slowly climbs.A
     Driving
     >A  A  A the
     >> car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The
     two
     >> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they
     >A  A are
     >A  A  A not
     >> detecting this hot water.A  When I filled the system, the bleeder
     >A  A on
     >A  A  A top
     >> of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it
     >A  A higher
     >> than the block and tanks.A  The temperature sender in the top of
     >A  A the
     >> block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added
     >A  A  A tubing).
     >> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while
     topping
     >A  A  A off
     >> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it
     >A  A was
     >A  A  A not
     >> drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180
     >A  A that
     >A  A  A I
     >> installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two
     >A  A  A large
     >> pusher fans.A  What is the best method for filling the system to
     >A  A  A prevent
     >> trapped air?A  Are there other things that I need to check?
     >> _______________________________________________
     >>
     >>
     >> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
     >> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
     >> DeTomaso mailing list
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References

   1. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   2. mailto:gkb1968 at hotmail.com
   3. mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com
   4. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   5. mailto:georgesekula at outlook.com
   6. mailto:georgesekula at outlook.com
   7. mailto:mikeldrew at aol.com
   8. mailto:mikeldrew at aol.com
   9. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  10. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  11. mailto:georgesekula at outlook.com
  12. mailto:mikeldrew at aol.com
  13. mailto:georgesekula at outlook.com
  14. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  15. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  16. mailto:georgesekula at outlook.com
  17. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  18. https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fserv
  19. http://er.detomasolist.com/
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  26. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  27. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
  28. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  29. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso


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