[DeTomaso] Overheating problem
John Neal
jrnealjr at aol.com
Mon Jul 15 13:47:59 EDT 2024
Retarded Timing can cause overheating and dieseling when the engine is turned off. I adjusted mine so the engine is hard to turn over when hot and then backed the timing off until the engine cranks freely when hot.
Way less work then pulling the seats and bulkhead to connect a timing light.
In a message dated 7/15/2024 11:57:44 AM Central Standard Time, georgesekula at outlook.com writes:
Thank you all for your help. Dozens of attempts, three times I could
idle for 30 minutes without an excursion, then 10 minutes on the
highway and the temperature climbs. Drained oil and found no
contamination. No smoke out the tailpipe. No little air bubble, just
volcano like eruptions. Did a combustion-gas-in-coolant test four
times with no combustion gas detected. When I did a cylinder leak down
test on cylinder 3, pointer was in the red and coolant was overflowing
the pressure tank. I have some work to do, hoping it is just the head
gasket.
__________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Drew <mikeldrew at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 5:05 PM
To: George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
George,
The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of trapped air in
the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an iterative
process that can take several days (for complete cooldown between
bleeds).
With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car elevated, the
pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running. When the
thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank, practically emptying
it, at which point you should top it off.
This will make a big fat mess.
Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank after the
thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly full. Then
install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the overflow is about
half full.
When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow so the
pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is reduced. If your
cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank level will
be down and the overflow will remain the same.
After a few cycles it should resolve itself.
As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle, knowing that
it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose from the
overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn't get onto the tire.
It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing but
eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping.
Good luck and please keep us posted!
Mike
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
wrote:
>
> I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water pump
and
> thermostat. New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new
overdrive
> pully. The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via
Summit
> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat
several
> times and it opens at exactly at180F. The dimensions match their
> website. The original bypass restrictor is still installed, with a
> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16". It acts like there is
> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut the
> engine off. Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank and
the
> water temperature instantly raises 30F. When you start the engine
> everything acts normal. You can feel the water start to flow in
the
> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature
holds
> perfect for a while. Then the temperature slowly climbs. Driving
the
> car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The two
> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they are
not
> detecting this hot water. When I filled the system, the bleeder on
top
> of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it higher
> than the block and tanks. The temperature sender in the top of the
> block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added
tubing).
> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while topping
off
> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it was
not
> drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180 that
I
> installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two
large
> pusher fans. What is the best method for filling the system to
prevent
> trapped air? Are there other things that I need to check?
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-------------- next part --------------
Retarded Timing can cause overheating and dieseling when the engine is
turned off.
I adjusted mine so the engine is hard to turn over when hot and then
backed the timing off until the engine cranks freely when hot.
Way less work then pulling the seats and bulkhead to connect a timing
light.
In a message dated 7/15/2024 11:57:44 AM Central Standard Time,
georgesekula at outlook.com writes:
Thank you all for your help. Dozens of attempts, three times I could
idle for 30 minutes without an excursion, then 10 minutes on the
highway and the temperature climbs. Drained oil and found no
contamination. No smoke out the tailpipe. No little air bubble,
just
volcano like eruptions. Did a combustion-gas-in-coolant test four
times with no combustion gas detected. When I did a cylinder leak
down
test on cylinder 3, pointer was in the red and coolant was
overflowing
the pressure tank. I have some work to do, hoping it is just the
head
gasket.
__________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Drew <[1]mikeldrew at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 5:05 PM
To: George Sekula <[2]georgesekula at outlook.com>
Cc: [3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
<[4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
George,
The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of trapped air in
the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an iterative
process that can take several days (for complete cooldown between
bleeds).
With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car elevated, the
pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running. When the
thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank, practically
emptying
it, at which point you should top it off.
This will make a big fat mess.
Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank after the
thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly full. Then
install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the overflow is
about
half full.
When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow so the
pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is reduced. If your
cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank level will
be down and the overflow will remain the same.
After a few cycles it should resolve itself.
As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle, knowing that
it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose from the
overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn't get onto the tire.
It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing but
eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping.
Good luck and please keep us posted!
Mike
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula
<[5]georgesekula at outlook.com>
wrote:
>
> I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water pump
and
> thermostat. New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new
overdrive
> pully. The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via
Summit
> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat
several
> times and it opens at exactly at180F. The dimensions match their
> website. The original bypass restrictor is still installed, with
a
> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16". It acts like there
is
> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut
the
> engine off. Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank and
the
> water temperature instantly raises 30F. When you start the engine
> everything acts normal. You can feel the water start to flow in
the
> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature
holds
> perfect for a while. Then the temperature slowly climbs. Driving
the
> car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The two
> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they
are
not
> detecting this hot water. When I filled the system, the bleeder
on
top
> of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it
higher
> than the block and tanks. The temperature sender in the top of
the
> block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added
tubing).
> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while topping
off
> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it
was
not
> drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180
that
I
> installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two
large
> pusher fans. What is the best method for filling the system to
prevent
> trapped air? Are there other things that I need to check?
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
> DeTomaso mailing list
> [6]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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> To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe,
etc.)
use the links above.
>
> Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of
the
list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an
archive
or approve the archiving of list messages.
References
1. [7]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
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References
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