[DeTomaso] Overheating problem

Tue Jul 2 11:15:01 EDT 2024

I must have gotten lucky (for once).  After just two heat cycles using the funnel, I've not had to add any coolant.

Richard
Austin, TX

-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> On Behalf Of jderyke--- via DeTomaso
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2024 9:38 AM
To: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; Richard Greenblum <richard at richardgreenblum.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem

 I've been using the metcod Rickard described (called a Lisle device) since the '90s. But it still takes days to fully eliminate every last bit of air. I once put 400 miles of highway driving and two days to bleed the last out. Filling the radiator is NOT simple! YMMV-
    On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 03:48:27 PM PDT, Richard Greenblum <richard at richardgreenblum.com> wrote:   

 All,

I've had pretty good luck in the past with the routine Mike described.  But, I've found the absolute best way to get the air out.  You can purchase the devise for about $25 over the internet.  It's a kit that comes with various caps, one of which will fit the Pantera tank provided it's been converted to US specs, not the Italian neck.  You first fill the system with as much coolant as you can with the engine cold.  Then, you attach a hopper from the kit to the cap and you fill the hopper with coolant.  Let the engine heat up and you'll see the air blowing up through the hopper and coolant displacing the air.  You must keep extra coolant next to you as you do this to ensure the hopper always has coolant in it or you'll reintroduce air to the system.  Shut down the engine when you see no more activity in the hopper.  Let it cool, then do it again.  Your system should be full of coolant and have no air left inside.

This worked better than the vacuum system the guy in the Hagerty video used.

Richard
Austin, TX

-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> On Behalf Of Larry Stock
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 5:06 PM
To: Pantera Mike Drew <mikeldrew at aol.com>; George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem

The operational overflow tank coolant level can vary. The stock overflow tanks are shorter than the new aftermarket shiny SS tanks we sell. To prevent that awkward and embarrassing discharge of coolant from an over filled overflow tank, which Usually happens waiting in a line going into a car show, I use a long 18-24" long flexible tie wrap to flex around the neck and into the tank to measure the coolant depth in the overflow tank. With a cold stock coolant tank you want about 3" and with a cold aftermarket tank about 5" of coolant depth is my recommendation. This is after all the sucking and bleeding of the cooling system has been completed as Mike has described below.
Larry Stock

On 7/1/24, 2:05 PM, "DeTomaso on behalf of Mike Drew via DeTomaso" <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com <mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>> wrote:

George,

The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of trapped air in the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an iterative process that can take several days (for complete cooldown between bleeds). 

With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car elevated, the pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running. When the thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank, practically emptying it, at which point you should top it off. 

This will make a big fat mess. 

Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank after the thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly full. Then install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the overflow is about half full. 

When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow so the pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is reduced. If your cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank level will be down and the overflow will remain the same. 

After a few cycles it should resolve itself. 

As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle, knowing that it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose from the overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn’t get onto the tire. 

It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing but eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping. 

Good luck and please keep us posted!

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com <mailto:georgesekula at outlook.com>> wrote:
> 
>  I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water pump and 
> thermostat. New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new overdrive 
> pully. The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via Summit 
> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat several 
> times and it opens at exactly at180F. The dimensions match their 
> website. The original bypass restrictor is still installed, with a 
> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16". It acts like there is 
> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut the 
> engine off. Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank and the 
> water temperature instantly raises 30F. When you start the engine 
> everything acts normal. You can feel the water start to flow in the 
> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature 
> holds perfect for a while. Then the temperature slowly climbs. Driving 
> the car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The two 
> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they are 
> not detecting this hot water. When I filled the system, the bleeder on 
> top of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it 
> higher than the block and tanks. The temperature sender in the top of 
> the block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added tubing).
> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while topping off 
> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it was 
> not drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180 
> that I installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two 
> large pusher fans. What is the best method for filling the system to 
> prevent trapped air? Are there other things that I need to check?
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