[DeTomaso] Overheating problem
Julian Kift
julian_kift at hotmail.com
Mon Jul 1 18:18:11 EDT 2024
The BRA-333-180 is listed as 'non-bypass' on Summit Racing the BRA-333-180SUB is bypass but unavailable. The easiest solution to ensure you get the right one is order from Tim Meyer.
https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/thermostat-bundle/
Julian
________________________________
From: Mike Drew <mikeldrew at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 3:09 PM
To: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
Cc: George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
Yes the proper part number is.
BRA-333-180
Mike
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 1, 2024, at 15:00, Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Can we assume that prior to your water pump failure the car was running
> well and not overheating?
>
> If so then I agree with Mike, with the addition that I'm not 100%
> convinced you have the correct thermostat. There was an undocumented
> change to the Flowkooler thermostats some time back and even Summit
> lists the Robert Shaw 333 as a "non-bypass" and although the plunger /
> hat is of a close dimension it may not be extending to the bypass
> restrictor plate hole.
>
> Julian
> __________________________________________________________________
>
> From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of
> Mike Drew via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 2:05 PM
> To: George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
>
> George,
> The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of trapped air in
> the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an iterative
> process that can take several days (for complete cooldown between
> bleeds).
> With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car elevated, the
> pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running. When the
> thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank, practically emptying
> it, at which point you should top it off.
> This will make a big fat mess.
> Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank after the
> thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly full. Then
> install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the overflow is about
> half full.
> When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow so the
> pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is reduced. If your
> cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank level will
> be down and the overflow will remain the same.
> After a few cycles it should resolve itself.
> As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle, knowing that
> it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose from the
> overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn't get onto the tire.
> It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing but
> eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping.
> Good luck and please keep us posted!
> Mike
> Sent from my iPad
>>> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water pump
> and
>> thermostat. New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new
> overdrive
>> pully. The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via
> Summit
>> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat
> several
>> times and it opens at exactly at180F. The dimensions match their
>> website. The original bypass restrictor is still installed, with a
>> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16". It acts like there is
>> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut the
>> engine off. Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank and
> the
>> water temperature instantly raises 30F. When you start the engine
>> everything acts normal. You can feel the water start to flow in
> the
>> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature
> holds
>> perfect for a while. Then the temperature slowly climbs. Driving
> the
>> car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The two
>> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they are
> not
>> detecting this hot water. When I filled the system, the bleeder on
> top
>> of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it higher
>> than the block and tanks. The temperature sender in the top of the
>> block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added
> tubing).
>> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while topping
> off
>> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it was
> not
>> drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180 that
> I
>> installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two
> large
>> pusher fans. What is the best method for filling the system to
> prevent
>> trapped air? Are there other things that I need to check?
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
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-------------- next part --------------
The BRA-333-180 is listed as 'non-bypass' on Summit Racing the
BRA-333-180SUB is bypass but unavailable. The easiest solution to
ensure you get the right one is order from Tim Meyer.
[1]https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/thermostat-bundle/
Julian
__________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Drew <mikeldrew at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 3:09 PM
To: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
Cc: George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>;
detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
Yes the proper part number is.
BRA-333-180
Mike
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 1, 2024, at 15:00, Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Can we assume that prior to your water pump failure the car was
running
> well and not overheating?
>
> If so then I agree with Mike, with the addition that I'm not 100%
> convinced you have the correct thermostat. There was an
undocumented
> change to the Flowkooler thermostats some time back and even Summit
> lists the Robert Shaw 333 as a "non-bypass" and although the
plunger /
> hat is of a close dimension it may not be extending to the bypass
> restrictor plate hole.
>
> Julian
>
__________________________________________________________________
>
> From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf
of
> Mike Drew via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 2:05 PM
> To: George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
<detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
>
> George,
> The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of trapped air
in
> the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an
iterative
> process that can take several days (for complete cooldown between
> bleeds).
> With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car elevated,
the
> pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running. When
the
> thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank, practically
emptying
> it, at which point you should top it off.
> This will make a big fat mess.
> Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank after
the
> thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly full. Then
> install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the overflow is
about
> half full.
> When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow so the
> pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is reduced. If
your
> cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank level
will
> be down and the overflow will remain the same.
> After a few cycles it should resolve itself.
> As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle, knowing
that
> it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose from the
> overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn't get onto the tire.
> It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing but
> eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping.
> Good luck and please keep us posted!
> Mike
> Sent from my iPad
>>> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water pump
> and
>> thermostat. New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new
> overdrive
>> pully. The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via
> Summit
>> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat
> several
>> times and it opens at exactly at180F. The dimensions match their
>> website. The original bypass restrictor is still installed, with a
>> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16". It acts like there is
>> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut the
>> engine off. Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank and
> the
>> water temperature instantly raises 30F. When you start the engine
>> everything acts normal. You can feel the water start to flow in
> the
>> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature
> holds
>> perfect for a while. Then the temperature slowly climbs. Driving
> the
>> car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The two
>> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they are
> not
>> detecting this hot water. When I filled the system, the bleeder on
> top
>> of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it higher
>> than the block and tanks. The temperature sender in the top of the
>> block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added
> tubing).
>> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while topping
> off
>> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it was
> not
>> drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180 that
> I
>> installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two
> large
>> pusher fans. What is the best method for filling the system to
> prevent
>> trapped air? Are there other things that I need to check?
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
>> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
>> DeTomaso mailing list
>> DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>>
>
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> any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of
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> or approve the archiving of list messages.
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