[DeTomaso] Radiator
Julian Kift
julian_kift at hotmail.com
Sat May 21 11:16:15 EDT 2022
And where is the sender located, I assume not still in the coolant reservoir? Also, worth mentioning some of the aftermarket water pumps do not have the bypass hole, the effects of which have been debated.
Is this a stuck in traffic temp climbs leading to overheating issue or is it during normal driving? When you stop does it puke coolant on the floor?
Julian
________________________________
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of Will Kooiman <will.kooiman at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2022 8:02 AM
To: MICHAEL DREW <mikeldrew at aol.com>; Eric Smith <ericjsmith7 at yahoo.com>
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
Stupid question, but how do you know it's overheating?
If you're going by the gauge, they're known to be inaccurate.
On 5/21/22, 10:50 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of MICHAEL DREW via DeTomaso" <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
> On May 21, 2022, at 07:24, Eric Smith via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
>
> I did install a plate for the bypass that’s under the thermostat. I bought it from Pantera Performance back in 1990ish and was one of the first things done to try and keep it from overheating. It had a penny soldered in the hole, completely blocking the bypass. It made no difference at all.
>>>That was a really dumb modification that was in vogue for awhile. Blocking it completely completely blocks water circulation in the motor when the thermostat is closed. That can lead to localized hot spots and even blown head gaskets in the extreme case. Once the thermostat opens all water circulates from the engine to the radiator and back.
> >Tried all the correct thermostats with different opening temps, and even no thermostat, but no luck.
>>>Nothing would work with the hole blocked. In fact, blocking the hole can prevent the thermostat from fully opening. So you were driving around with your thermostat mostly closed all the time, which would tend to make the motor run hot.
> >I focused on air in the system after that but it still overheated.
>>>It’s very difficult to purge the air if the bypass hole is blocked.
> >Bought an aluminum radiator with puller fans from Pantera Performance,
>>>That is as good as it comes. No way your car should run hot with that installed *properly*.
I’ve seen people hook their radiator fans up backwards, so they blow (or suck) back to front. It’s very easy to do, and will absolutely cause overheating.
> >then installed the vents in the hood and it still overheated.
>>>Hood vents make zero difference. It’s just a styling thing.
> >Installed a high volume aluminum water pump and it seemed to take longer to overheat but still would overheat. I replaced the water pipes with a larger water pipe, that looks like shit, but I was desperate, and again, it took longer to overheat but still eventually did, even on a cool day.
>>>You clearly have an engine problem, not a cooling system problem, unless your fans are spinning backwards.
> >Sent it to a radiator shop and he came to the conclusion that the engine needed to be rebuilt. Mainly because he couldn’t find any reason for overheating. So that’s what I did. Stock rebuild and open chamber heads, and it still overheated. This was back in 1991-92. The head gaskets were installed correctly and the block and heads were inspected for scaling, then hot tanked.
>
> Since a much stronger engine is about to be installed, I’m thinking I need the best cooling system possible so I don’t have to worry about it anymore.
>>>You already have the best system available. It just needs to be installed correctly, and any BS cooling system modifications in the engine have GOT to go! Just let the system work as originally designed, bleed all the air out, ensure the fans behave properly, and that’s all there is to it.
Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On May 21, 2022, at 9:57 AM, Eric Smith <ericjsmith7 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>>> On May 20, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Scott Mead Photography <scott at scottmeadphotography.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Eric,
>>>
>>> A couple years ago, Don Byars installed one of Hall’s lay down, brass radiators (with sucker fans) in my car. The acid test on my way home was a couple of hours of bumper-to-bumper traffic, in 102° heat with the AC blasting. My temp gauge never got above 185°. Driving to and from this year’s Fun Rally, the needle on the temp gauge hardly moved a few degrees from cruise to stopped in traffic. I truly can’t say enough good things about this setup, and I no longer have my eyes glued to the temp gauge - ever!!!
>>>
>>> Have a great weekend,
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>>> On May 20, 2022, at 9:18 AM, Eric Smith via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> About to install the drivetrain in my 71. I had overheating issues since I’ve owned the car, but it’s been 30 yrs since it was last on the road. What is the best cooling system made to make sure this issue never happens again?
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>
>
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-------------- next part --------------
And where is the sender located, I assume not still in the coolant
reservoir? Also, worth mentioning some of the aftermarket water pumps
do not have the bypass hole, the effects of which have been debated.
Is this a stuck in traffic temp climbs leading to overheating issue or
is it during normal driving? When you stop does it puke coolant on the
floor?
Julian
__________________________________________________________________
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of
Will Kooiman <will.kooiman at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2022 8:02 AM
To: MICHAEL DREW <mikeldrew at aol.com>; Eric Smith
<ericjsmith7 at yahoo.com>
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
Stupid question, but how do you know it's overheating?
If you're going by the gauge, they're known to be inaccurate.
On 5/21/22, 10:50 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of MICHAEL DREW via DeTomaso"
<detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
> On May 21, 2022, at 07:24, Eric Smith via DeTomaso
<detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
>
> I did install a plate for the bypass that's under the
thermostat. I bought it from Pantera Performance back in 1990ish and
was one of the first things done to try and keep it from overheating.
It had a penny soldered in the hole, completely blocking the bypass.
It made no difference at all.
>>>That was a really dumb modification that was in vogue for
awhile. Blocking it completely completely blocks water circulation in
the motor when the thermostat is closed. That can lead to localized hot
spots and even blown head gaskets in the extreme case. Once the
thermostat opens all water circulates from the engine to the radiator
and back.
> >Tried all the correct thermostats with different opening temps,
and even no thermostat, but no luck.
>>>Nothing would work with the hole blocked. In fact, blocking the
hole can prevent the thermostat from fully opening. So you were driving
around with your thermostat mostly closed all the time, which would
tend to make the motor run hot.
> >I focused on air in the system after that but it still
overheated.
>>>It's very difficult to purge the air if the bypass hole is
blocked.
> >Bought an aluminum radiator with puller fans from Pantera
Performance,
>>>That is as good as it comes. No way your car should run hot with
that installed *properly*.
I've seen people hook their radiator fans up backwards, so they
blow (or suck) back to front. It's very easy to do, and will absolutely
cause overheating.
> >then installed the vents in the hood and it still overheated.
>>>Hood vents make zero difference. It's just a styling thing.
> >Installed a high volume aluminum water pump and it seemed to
take longer to overheat but still would overheat. I replaced the water
pipes with a larger water pipe, that looks like shit, but I was
desperate, and again, it took longer to overheat but still eventually
did, even on a cool day.
>>>You clearly have an engine problem, not a cooling system
problem, unless your fans are spinning backwards.
> >Sent it to a radiator shop and he came to the conclusion that
the engine needed to be rebuilt. Mainly because he couldn't find any
reason for overheating. So that's what I did. Stock rebuild and open
chamber heads, and it still overheated. This was back in 1991-92. The
head gaskets were installed correctly and the block and heads were
inspected for scaling, then hot tanked.
>
> Since a much stronger engine is about to be installed, I'm
thinking I need the best cooling system possible so I don't have to
worry about it anymore.
>>>You already have the best system available. It just needs to be
installed correctly, and any BS cooling system modifications in the
engine have GOT to go! Just let the system work as originally designed,
bleed all the air out, ensure the fans behave properly, and that's all
there is to it.
Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On May 21, 2022, at 9:57 AM, Eric Smith <ericjsmith7 at yahoo.com>
wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>>> On May 20, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Scott Mead Photography
<scott at scottmeadphotography.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Eric,
>>>
>>> A couple years ago, Don Byars installed one of Hall's lay down,
brass radiators (with sucker fans) in my car. The acid test on my way
home was a couple of hours of bumper-to-bumper traffic, in 102DEG heat
with the AC blasting. My temp gauge never got above 185DEG. Driving to
and from this year's Fun Rally, the needle on the temp gauge hardly
moved a few degrees from cruise to stopped in traffic. I truly can't
say enough good things about this setup, and I no longer have my eyes
glued to the temp gauge - ever!!!
>>>
>>> Have a great weekend,
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>>> On May 20, 2022, at 9:18 AM, Eric Smith via DeTomaso
<detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> About to install the drivetrain in my 71. I had overheating
issues since I've owned the car, but it's been 30 yrs since it was last
on the road. What is the best cooling system made to make sure this
issue never happens again?
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
>>>> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
>>>> DeTomaso mailing list
>>>> DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>>>> [1]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>>>
>>>> To manage your subscription (change email address,
unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above.
>>>>
>>>> Members who post to this list grant license to the list to
forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members
of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an
archive or approve the archiving of list messages.
>>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an
archive or approve the archiving of list messages.
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