[DeTomaso] Rear Wheel Bearing
jderyke at aol.com
jderyke at aol.com
Fri Sep 25 18:46:16 EDT 2020
Dennis, the assemblies you located will work IF they are usable quality- except that you are then dealing with shipping bulky 57-lb assemblies, instead of 4-oz bearings and removing and rebuilding what you already have. Possible issues involve unknown quality brake rotors, unknown lower pivot spacers & bushings and especially unknown axles with maybe mauled axle nuts. Given the visible condition of your rear bearing, I'd first check if the upright lower pivot shaft(s) are frozen. If so, that's yet another assembly that needs specialized work, probably at a pro shop. I have needed and used a cutting torch and a power hacksaw on some cars!
Note the D and S stamps (denoting thread direction) on the threaded ends of stock axles are visible while still assembled. Obviously, what you get in these used part deals can be better than- or worse than- what you already have, so it's a crapshoot until someone does a teardown and actually checks everything. With used uprights I always assume I will need to R & R everything including both axles. Teardown can be done a variety of ways but reassembly takes a special nut socket, a very high torque wrench (0-500 or more ft-lbs range), a 5-digit 1"-2" micrometer for checking the axle shafts and a hydraulic press with a custom press fixture.
And parts as necessary, of course: bearings are cheap but nothing else is..... Replacement axles in 300-M steel are far stronger than OEMs ever were, and are usually sized correctly for proper bearing press-fit. This is a non-trivial job often done as a club project or during a multi-person Tech Session with experienced helpers. The first time through for everyone is slow and confusing because one problem often leads to another. Good luck.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Sanford via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: coreyjprice at gmail.com; byrdjf at embarqmail.com
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Sent: Fri, Sep 25, 2020 2:17 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Rear Wheel Bearing
Any reason why I can't replace the entire assembly from an earlier year
car. Bob Levitt has extra complete assemblies for both sides from what
he believes is a 73. I have a 74 and I wasn't sure if there are any
differences in the years. It would certainly be easier to just swap
out the entire assembly then trying to take it apart without the right
tools.
Dennis
__________________________________________________________________
On Friday, September 25, 2020 Corey Price <coreyjprice at gmail.com>
wrote:
I just went thru replacing my rear wheel bearings and axles. You should
have a tin bearing protector plate thing there for type of bearings you
have. In any case, I agree that it's a problem noticed before something
bad could happen. An open bearing there probably won't last long!
Corey
> On Sep 25, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Joseph F Byrd, Jr
<[1]byrdjf at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
> i>>?"... know what's going on here?"A ----A a serious failure was
avoided!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DeTomaso <[2]detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> On
Behalf Of Dennis Sanford via DeTomaso
> Sent: Friday, September 25, 2020 3:48 PM
> To: [3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Rear Wheel Bearing
>
> So I was under my car today just putting air in my tires, (I have
those ridiculous air valves that are on the inside), and I looked up
and saw this.A See attached.A Anyone know what's going on here, that
I can see the inside of my wheel bearing?
> Dennis
>
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-------------- next part --------------
Dennis, the assemblies you located will work IF they are usable
quality- except that you are then dealing with shipping bulky 57-lb
assemblies, instead of 4-oz bearings and removing and rebuilding what
you already have. Possible issues involve unknown quality brake rotors,
unknown lower pivot spacers & bushings and especially unknown axles
with maybe mauled axle nuts. Given the visible condition of your rear
bearing, I'd first check if the upright lower pivot shaft(s) are
frozen. If so, that's yet another assembly that needs specialized work,
probably at a pro shop. I have needed and used a cutting torch and a
power hacksaw on some cars!
Note the D and S stamps (denoting thread direction) on the threaded
ends of stock axles are visible while still assembled. Obviously, what
you get in these used part deals can be better than- or worse than-
what you already have, so it's a crapshoot until someone does a
teardown and actually checks everything. With used uprights I always
assume I will need to R & R everything including both axles. Teardown
can be done a variety of ways but reassembly takes a special nut
socket, a very high torque wrench (0-500 or more ft-lbs range), a
5-digit 1"-2" micrometer for checking the axle shafts and a hydraulic
press with a custom press fixture.
And parts as necessary, of course: bearings are cheap but nothing else
is..... Replacement axles in 300-M steel are far stronger than OEMs
ever were, and are usually sized correctly for proper bearing
press-fit. This is a non-trivial job often done as a club project or
during a multi-person Tech Session with experienced helpers. The first
time through for everyone is slow and confusing because one problem
often leads to another. Good luck.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Sanford via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: coreyjprice at gmail.com; byrdjf at embarqmail.com
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Sent: Fri, Sep 25, 2020 2:17 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Rear Wheel Bearing
Any reason why I can't replace the entire assembly from an earlier
year
car. Bob Levitt has extra complete assemblies for both sides from
what
he believes is a 73. I have a 74 and I wasn't sure if there are any
differences in the years. It would certainly be easier to just swap
out the entire assembly then trying to take it apart without the
right
tools.
Dennis
__________________________________________________________________
On Friday, September 25, 2020 Corey Price <[1]coreyjprice at gmail.com>
wrote:
I just went thru replacing my rear wheel bearings and axles. You
should
have a tin bearing protector plate thing there for type of bearings
you
have. In any case, I agree that it's a problem noticed before
something
bad could happen. An open bearing there probably won't last long!
Corey
> On Sep 25, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Joseph F Byrd, Jr
<[1][2]byrdjf at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
> i>>?"... know what's going on here?"A ----A a serious failure was
avoided!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DeTomaso <[2][3]detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> On
Behalf Of Dennis Sanford via DeTomaso
> Sent: Friday, September 25, 2020 3:48 PM
> To: [3][4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Rear Wheel Bearing
>
> So I was under my car today just putting air in my tires, (I have
those ridiculous air valves that are on the inside), and I looked up
and saw this.A See attached.A Anyone know what's going on here,
that
I can see the inside of my wheel bearing?
> Dennis
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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archive
or approve the archiving of list messages.
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