[DeTomaso] Stripped Rear Swaybar Bracket Stud

Mike Drew MikeLDrew at aol.com
Thu Jan 30 00:56:53 EST 2020


Larry’s solution is similar to the one I employed working on a car in Europe. Three of his studs were broken, I believe. 

First we cut them flush, then drilled and tapped for same-size bolts (it’s impossible to buy studs there so you have to make them). We had just enough access on the back side to thread nuts onto the bolts. We welded the nuts to the inside of the chassis, then welded the end of the bolts to the nuts. Presto. New stud. 

Oh, except it’s a bolt so it had a head in the way. We cut the heads off, then cleaned the threads with a die. When finished, the resultant studs were indistinguishable from the originals. 

Having access to a welder, and courage, made this repair possible. I can’t think of a good way to fix it without welding on the inside of the box section. 

Come to think of it, if you were desperate you could drill completely through the front and back surfaces of the rear crossmember, then use long bolts which would pass through the swaybar brackets, and through both surfaces of the crossmember, and secure them with ordinary nuts on the back side. No welding required then. 

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 29, 2020, at 19:32, Larry Finch via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I found I had two broken studs on my rear swaybar chassis mount. My solution may be of interest to you.
> 
> The stud is not a hex head bolt but a round headed stud that is welded to the chassis crossmember . On the early cars such as 2511 it it is possible to access the stud heads from the bottom of the crossmember. I believe the later cars had this area completely boxed and enclosed. 
> 
> I elected to cut all four studs flush with the crossmember. I then drilled and tapped for 3/8” X 24 TPI bolts. Between the sheet-metal and the stud head there is close to 1/4” of available metal to tap. While that might be minimally sufficient I elected to also place four nuts on the backside. 
> 
> The stock studs were 8mm and in hindsight I probably should have just kept things all metric and used 10mm bolts. 
> 
> YMMV
> 
> Larry 
> 
> Sent from me using a magic, handheld electronic gizmo. 
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