[DeTomaso] Difficulty starting the Pantera...

[Garth Rodericks]

 Hahaha!  No less reliable than an MSD, although that's not saying much these days. Arguably more reliable as I've only ever had 1 module fail, and that was the original module. Mallory has redesigned the modules which makes them much more robust than they used to be.  This Unilite came from Dennis Quella - he 'curved' it for the Pantera. 
Anyway, this is a newer issues.  My car has had the Mallory and EIS ignition for years, yet this is a newer issue. 
Distributor: Mallory UniliteIgnition: PE EIS with Fuse Panel: PE ATO Fuse PanelIgnition Switch: Entire assembly (electrical and mechanical) replaced with new components within the last 6-10 years
Tonight I'll test the battery voltage under load while cranking and report back.


    On Thursday, August 20, 2020, 04:33:03 PM PDT, Mike Drew <mikeldrew at aol.com> wrote:  
 
 Garth,

Ugh. Unilite.  

The stock wiring scheme sends the full 12v to the coil during the starting circuit and then drops down to 9v or so from the run circuit. Is it possible yours is getting only 9v all the time?

Personally I wouldn’t spend much time or effort diagnosing an ignition problem with a Unilite installed. A Unilite IS an ignition problem IMHO.....

Mike (had a Unilite on my Pantera when I first bought it and frequently had starting problems....)

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 20, 2020, at 15:52, Garth Rodericks via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
> 
>   Sending this to the brain-trust for some collective wisdom on where and
>  what to check first before I drop $100 on a new battery...
>  The Problem:
>  The engine will crank and crank and crank, but it won't light/fire.
>  Only when I release the key from the 'start' position after 10-20
>  seconds of cranking, it sounds like it just tries to light for a
>  seconds, but doesn't catch.
>  The battery is an Optima Red top, but I'm not sure how old it is. Date
>  code is 6033, which most likely means 2/2/2016.  I don't remember
>  replacing the battery only 4 years ago, but I must have.
>  Battery voltage before cranking = 12.4v to 12.55v
>  I believe voltage in the 12.0-12.4v range means it's low.  It also
>  doesn't seem to hold a charge long, so I expect it's sulfated.
>  If I add my little portable battery booster ($60 from Costo), it will
>  usually start.
>  The engine doesn't crank any faster, but the engine fires this time.
>  I was thinking I might need a new battery, but wanted to see if there's
>  something else I should check first before dropping $100 on a battery.
>  The ignition is a Pantera Electronics Electronic Ignition System (EIS)
>  with a Mallory Unilite distributor (with a newer module).
>  Thanks!
>  Garth
>  #4033
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-------------- next part --------------
   Hahaha!  No less reliable than an MSD, although that's not saying much
   these days. Arguably more reliable as I've only ever had 1 module fail,
   and that was the original module. Mallory has redesigned the modules
   which makes them much more robust than they used to be.  This Unilite
   came from Dennis Quella - he 'curved' it for the Pantera.
   Anyway, this is a newer issues.  My car has had the Mallory and EIS
   ignition for years, yet this is a newer issue.
   Distributor: Mallory Unilite
   Ignition: PE EIS with
   Fuse Panel: PE ATO Fuse Panel
   Ignition Switch: Entire assembly (electrical and mechanical) replaced
   with new components within the last 6-10 years
   Tonight I'll test the battery voltage under load while cranking and
   report back.

   On Thursday, August 20, 2020, 04:33:03 PM PDT, Mike Drew
   <mikeldrew at aol.com> wrote:
   Garth,
   Ugh. Unilite.
   The stock wiring scheme sends the full 12v to the coil during the
   starting circuit and then drops down to 9v or so from the run circuit.
   Is it possible yours is getting only 9v all the time?
   Personally I wouldnat spend much time or effort diagnosing an ignition
   problem with a Unilite installed. A Unilite IS an ignition problem
   IMHO.....
   Mike (had a Unilite on my Pantera when I first bought it and frequently
   had starting problems....)
   Sent from my iPad
   > On Aug 20, 2020, at 15:52, Garth Rodericks via DeTomaso
   <[1]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
   >
   > i>>?  Sending this to the brain-trust for some collective wisdom on
   where and
   >  what to check first before I drop $100 on a new battery...
   >  The Problem:
   >  The engine will crank and crank and crank, but it won't light/fire.
   >  Only when I release the key from the 'start' position after 10-20
   >  seconds of cranking, it sounds like it just tries to light for a
   >  seconds, but doesn't catch.
   >  The battery is an Optima Red top, but I'm not sure how old it is.
   Date
   >  code is 6033, which most likely means 2/2/2016.  I don't remember
   >  replacing the battery only 4 years ago, but I must have.
   >  Battery voltage before cranking = 12.4v to 12.55v
   >  I believe voltage in the 12.0-12.4v range means it's low.  It also
   >  doesn't seem to hold a charge long, so I expect it's sulfated.
   >  If I add my little portable battery booster ($60 from Costo), it
   will
   >  usually start.
   >  The engine doesn't crank any faster, but the engine fires this time.
   >  I was thinking I might need a new battery, but wanted to see if
   there's
   >  something else I should check first before dropping $100 on a
   battery.
   >  The ignition is a Pantera Electronics Electronic Ignition System
   (EIS)
   >  with a Mallory Unilite distributor (with a newer module).
   >  Thanks!
   >  Garth
   >  #4033
   > _______________________________________________
   >
   >
   > Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
   > Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
   > DeTomaso mailing list
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   >
   > To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
   use the links above.
   >
   > Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
   any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
   or approve the archiving of list messages.

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