[DeTomaso] Radiator

Mon Oct 29 12:23:08 EDT 2018

Ahhh - I was wondering who would respond.  I posed this question to a group
of PhD metallurgists who worked for me for a time while developing a novel
titanium alloy - with a focus on enhanced corrosion resistance.  Whilst it
possible that their combined wisdom is in error, I sort of doubt it.  But
then, their department was focused on preventing corrosion and scale
deposition in the brine-processing industry.

So, what is the difference between "softened water" and DI water?  Well, the
first is partially deionized.  The second, well, it is deionized.
https://www.portablewatersoftener.com/faq/water-softener-faq/what-is-the-dif
ference-between-a-water-softener-and-deionizer  

So, what you use is up to you - I go for DI - but then, wife is a PhD
chemist out of Notre Dame and I am a chemical engineer with experience in
the brine-processing industry.  

As all of us know - your mileage may vary!

Stephen

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Stock [mailto:larrys at panteraparts.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2018 8:07 AM
To: Steve <steve at snclocks.com>; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator

Actually Softened Tap water is best, then tap water, but that varies quite a
bit. Actually The worst thing you can use is DI water which promotes
electrolysis in your cooling system.

On 10/29/18, 7:38 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of Steve"
<detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of steve at snclocks.com>
wrote:

>Wow - does anyone use tap water in their radiators???  DI water is less 
>than a dollar a gallon!
>
>Stephen
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On 
>Behalf Of Jack DeRyke via DeTomaso
>Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2018 7:47 PM
>To: djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com; audionut at hushmail.com
>Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
>
> Before you lay out cash to fix an aluminum radiator, check the water 
>in your area. Some parts of the U.S, in spite of the best efforts of 
>the EPA, has water that is almost as corrosive as Coco-Cola! Go to a 
>swimming pool shop and get a roll of pH paper for about $2. Dip it in 
>some tap water at your house- or wherever you'll be getting the water 
>for your cooling system. Municipal water systems are all over the map 
>and two houses next door to each other may have sources 100 miles 
>apart. If a couple of quick tests show the pH is below 7.0, you MUST 
>use an anti-acid additive like Larry Stock mentioned. If its really 
>low, a sacrificial anode may be needed as well. Corvette shops have 
>been dealing with this for 55 years and have everything in stock.
>
>Second thing to watch: the pressure in most of the cooling system is 
>less than 15 psi, so using an 18" wrench to tighten fittings like the 
>black-iron water piping in your house is guaranteed to split or strip 
>soft aluminum bosses. Use teflon tape and a gentle hand when tightening 
>things into aluminum.
>
>Finally, there a neat little test the Corvette guys have been using 
>since the mid-'60s. They have ALL had aluminum radiators since the days 
>of the split-window 'Vette, with few failures such as members of this 
>Forum have described. Take a GOOD VOM, set on the lowest voltage range, 
>put one lead in the coolant in the tank and ground the other lead. If 
>you see more than about 70 millivolts, this is a measure of how fast 
>your alloy parts are dissolving. If you get no reading, your VOM is too 
>coarse in its ranges. Borrow one from a TV repair shop if you must. 
>Mine cost $250 in
>1985- a $7.95 special from Harbor Freight simply will not work. Its 
>like trying to use a yardstick to measure crank bearings.
>
>Last thought: Carrying extra weight around in your Pantera impacts tire 
>life, gas mileage, acceleration, brakes, handling and a host of other 
>things; it's not 'just for racers'. Good luck- J DeRyke
> 
> 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com <djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com>
>To: audionut <audionut at hushmail.com>
>CC: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
>Sent: Sun, 28 Oct 2018 14:55
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
>
>  Thanks John. Waiting to hear from the Rad shop if they can repair.
>  Dave
>  Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone
>
>  ------ Original message------
>  From: [1]audionut at hushmail.com
>  Date: Sun, Oct 28, 2018 4:21 PM
>  To: [2]djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com;
>  Cc:
>  Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
>  Hi Dave--
>  I also have a 73 (stock 351 w/Holley 650).  10 years ago, with simple  
> tools, I installed a Fluidyne aluminum radiator/lay down kit and 2  
> sucker fans.
>  I have driven it in hot weather, bumper to bumper traffic, you name
>  it--  the car has never even come close to overheating nor has it 
> ever  leaked.
>  I change coolant every 2 years.
>  Best of luck!
>  John
>  73L #5909
>  Sent using Hushmail
>  On 10/27/2018 at 11:46 AM,[3] djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com wrote:
>
>    I might need a new radiator for my 73 pantera. Would appreciate
>    suggestions on a replacement.
>    Thanks,Dave
>    Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone
>
>References
>
>  1. mailto:audionut at hushmail.com
>  2. mailto:djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
>  3. mailto:%20djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
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