[DeTomaso] Radiator

Sun Oct 28 22:47:24 EDT 2018

 Before you lay out cash to fix an aluminum radiator, check the water in your area. Some parts of the U.S, in spite of the best efforts of the EPA, has water that is almost as corrosive as Coco-Cola! Go to a swimming pool shop and get a roll of pH paper for about $2. Dip it in some tap water at your house- or wherever you'll be getting the water for your cooling system. Municipal water systems are all over the map and two houses next door to each other may have sources 100 miles apart. If a couple of quick tests show the pH is below 7.0, you MUST use an anti-acid additive like Larry Stock mentioned. If its really low, a sacrificial anode may be needed as well. Corvette shops have been dealing with this for 55 years and have everything in stock.

Second thing to watch: the pressure in most of the cooling system is less than 15 psi, so using an 18" wrench to tighten fittings like the black-iron water piping in your house is guaranteed to split or strip soft aluminum bosses. Use teflon tape and a gentle hand when tightening things into aluminum.

Finally, there a neat little test the Corvette guys have been using since the mid-'60s. They have ALL had aluminum radiators since the days of the split-window 'Vette, with few failures such as members of this Forum have described. Take a GOOD VOM, set on the lowest voltage range, put one lead in the coolant in the tank and ground the other lead. If you see more than about 70 millivolts, this is a measure of how fast your alloy parts are dissolving. If you get no reading, your VOM is too coarse in its ranges. Borrow one from a TV repair shop if you must. Mine cost $250 in 1985- a $7.95 special from Harbor Freight simply will not work. Its like trying to use a yardstick to measure crank bearings.

Last thought: Carrying extra weight around in your Pantera impacts tire life, gas mileage, acceleration, brakes, handling and a host of other things; it's not 'just for racers'. Good luck- J DeRyke

-----Original Message-----
From: djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com <djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com>
To: audionut <audionut at hushmail.com>
CC: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Sent: Sun, 28 Oct 2018 14:55
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator

  Thanks John. Waiting to hear from the Rad shop if they can repair.
  Dave
  Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone

  ------ Original message------
  From: [1]audionut at hushmail.com
  Date: Sun, Oct 28, 2018 4:21 PM
  To: [2]djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com;
  Cc:
  Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
  Hi Dave--
  I also have a 73 (stock 351 w/Holley 650).  10 years ago, with simple
  tools, I installed a Fluidyne aluminum radiator/lay down kit and 2
  sucker fans.
  I have driven it in hot weather, bumper to bumper traffic, you name
  it--  the car has never even come close to overheating nor has it ever
  leaked.
  I change coolant every 2 years.
  Best of luck!
  John
  73L #5909
  Sent using Hushmail
  On 10/27/2018 at 11:46 AM,[3] djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com wrote:

    I might need a new radiator for my 73 pantera. Would appreciate
    suggestions on a replacement.
    Thanks,Dave
    Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone

References

  1. mailto:audionut at hushmail.com
  2. mailto:djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
  3. mailto:%20djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
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-------------- next part --------------
   Before you lay out cash to fix an aluminum radiator, check the water in
   your area. Some parts of the U.S, in spite of the best efforts of the
   EPA, has water that is almost as corrosive as Coco-Cola! Go to a
   swimming pool shop and get a roll of pH paper for about $2. Dip it in
   some tap water at your house- or wherever you'll be getting the water
   for your cooling system. Municipal water systems are all over the map
   and two houses next door to each other may have sources 100 miles
   apart. If a couple of quick tests show the pH is below 7.0, you MUST
   use an anti-acid additive like Larry Stock mentioned. If its really
   low, a sacrificial anode may be needed as well. Corvette shops have
   been dealing with this for 55 years and have everything in stock.
   Second thing to watch: the pressure in most of the cooling system is
   less than 15 psi, so using an 18" wrench to tighten fittings like the
   black-iron water piping in your house is guaranteed to split or strip
   soft aluminum bosses. Use teflon tape and a gentle hand when tightening
   things into aluminum.
   Finally, there a neat little test the Corvette guys have been using
   since the mid-'60s. They have ALL had aluminum radiators since the days
   of the split-window 'Vette, with few failures such as members of this
   Forum have described. Take a GOOD VOM, set on the lowest voltage range,
   put one lead in the coolant in the tank and ground the other lead. If
   you see more than about 70 millivolts, this is a measure of how fast
   your alloy parts are dissolving. If you get no reading, your VOM is too
   coarse in its ranges. Borrow one from a TV repair shop if you must.
   Mine cost $250 in 1985- a $7.95 special from Harbor Freight simply will
   not work. Its like trying to use a yardstick to measure crank bearings.
   Last thought: Carrying extra weight around in your Pantera impacts tire
   life, gas mileage, acceleration, brakes, handling and a host of other
   things; it's not 'just for racers'. Good luck- J DeRyke

   -----Original Message-----
   From: djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com <djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com>
   To: audionut <audionut at hushmail.com>
   CC: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
   Sent: Sun, 28 Oct 2018 14:55
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
     Thanks John. Waiting to hear from the Rad shop if they can repair.
     Dave
     Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone
     ------ Original message------
     From: [1][1]audionut at hushmail.com
     Date: Sun, Oct 28, 2018 4:21 PM
     To: [2][2]djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com;
     Cc:
     Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
     Hi Dave--
     I also have a 73 (stock 351 w/Holley 650).  10 years ago, with simple
     tools, I installed a Fluidyne aluminum radiator/lay down kit and 2
     sucker fans.
     I have driven it in hot weather, bumper to bumper traffic, you name
     it--  the car has never even come close to overheating nor has it
   ever
     leaked.
     I change coolant every 2 years.
     Best of luck!
     John
     73L #5909
     Sent using Hushmail
     On 10/27/2018 at 11:46 AM,[3] [3]djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com wrote:
       I might need a new radiator for my 73 pantera. Would appreciate
       suggestions on a replacement.
       Thanks,Dave
       Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone
   References
     1. mailto:[4]audionut at hushmail.com
     2. mailto:[5]djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
     3. mailto:%[6]20djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
   _______________________________________________
   Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
   Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
   DeTomaso mailing list
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   [8]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
   To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
   use the links above.
   Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any
   message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
   or approve the archiving of list messages.

References

   1. mailto:audionut at hushmail.com
   2. mailto:djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
   3. mailto:djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
   4. mailto:audionut at hushmail.com
   5. mailto:djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
   6. mailto:20djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com
   7. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   8. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso