[DeTomaso] Seals and windshild
Mike Drew
MikeLDrew at aol.com
Wed Oct 17 21:17:14 EDT 2018
Robert,
On the later cars (mid-73 and later) there is a fresh air induction system that introduces outside air into the heater box FIA a round standpipe in the right side of the cavity beneath and outboard of the wiper grilles. There is a square plenum with a round trap-door lined with foam above the passenger’s feet. When the lever on the dash is moved one way, outside air is brought in. Move the lever and the door swings to seal off the outside air and bring in air from the cabin.
The metal standpipe penetrates the sheetmetal in the area under the grilles and stands proud by about an inch. This prevents water from pooling in the area and pouring into the heater box. I suppose it’s possible that the join between this pipe and the body could be compromised.
But personally I doubt that’s your problem.....
Mike
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 17, 2018, at 13:43, Robert Stroj <npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> yes, my car got a fresh air vent; are those known to leak?
> Any experience on how to solve that?
>
> I do expect this could be the problem as once I washed the car with nose parked slightly downhill there was no water coming in; next time I parked the opposite way and glow box was full of water.
> Since then I am no longer washing it with water, but still get major leaks in that area when I get caught in heavy rain.
>
> Can this want be reached by removing vents next to the wipers?
> Is there a seal in there that might be missing or went bad with age?
>
> Thanks, Robert
>
>
>
> From: Jeff Detrich [mailto:jjdetrich at gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 8:06 AM
> To: npdrs at maui.net
> Cc: 03Drew; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Seals and windshild
>
> Does Robert's car have the fresh air vent that sits right on top of the glove box? Perhaps this could be the source of the leak.
>
> Kind of have to agree with Mike. Pinhole leaks are really difficult to find. Suggest you try to locate the leak with water (or something less viscuous than water) before putting the windshield back in. You might even try to find it before you take the windshield out by getting under there with a flashlight while someone sprays a stream of water at different places.
>
> Not much fun.
>
> Jeff
> 6559
>
> On Mon, Oct 15, 2018 at 5:05 PM Robert Stroj <npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> I really doubt this as I sealed with silicone (I think really well) the old
> rubber, both, where it meets the glass and where it meets the paint....still
> had major leak.
> Some of it for sure comes through door seal as I can see water running along
> front edge of my interior door panels.
> The most severe leak is somewhere on top of the glovebox (it gets water into
> the glovebox), but no matter how good I looked could not find nothing
> strange; the compartment with windshield wipers all looks really clean (no
> rust or holes) and drain tubes on both sides are totally clean....
>
> Anyway, will install the new windshield seal and at the same time try
> siliconing the drip rail trim to body.
>
> How is the upper door channel rubber seal supposed to close with door shut;
> curled to the inside or "flared" out?
>
> Thanks, Robert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Drew [mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2018 11:08 AM
> To: Robert Stroj
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Seals and windshild
>
> Robert,
>
> I would be willing to bet your fuse box area leak is coming from the bottom
> corner of the windshield.
>
> I believe you install the windshield and seal dry, then use the applicator
> on the end of the tube to inject the sealer under the lip to fill the cavity
> since the 'seal' doesn't.
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 15, 2018, at 13:49, Robert Stroj <npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
> >
> > I am just in process of replacing my windshield seal as well as trying to
> > put end on my leaking issues in general.
> > I am getting seals from Rolland in Germany, as was suggested by Mike.
> > Old windshield seal will be cut out in order to avoid the risk of braking
> > the glass in removal process.
> >
> > Was reading various posts on the forum but still have few questions if
> > someone would help with:
> >
> > 1) I seen in few posts that it is suggested to use 3M sealant when
> > installing the new windshield seal.
> > I removed/installed successfully few windshields or rear windows on
> > different cars using the soap/electrical wire technique, but really do not
> > understand how it would be possible to use sealant without creating a big
> > mess?
> > If I put it inside the seal channel before pulling the wire/rope I expect
> > lots of it will be coming out as I am pulling the wire, probably getting
> all
> > over the dashboard etc...
> > If I try to put it on metal edge before getting windshield in place I
> expect
> > it would similarly get pushed out while the rubber is being pulled in?
> > Could someone please share the actual technique used to install new
> weather
> > stripping using 3M windshield sealant?
> >
> > 2) I got a major leak problem at the front edge of my doors; just around
> the
> > fuse panel.
> > Car originally cam e with very small round profile for the door seals and
> I
> > always thought this was the problem.
> > Replaced the seal with much larger one I got from Pantera Performance and
> > now doors do not close that nice any more, but still have a leak problem
> in
> > that area.
> > Was wondering is my doors are moved too far back, but, all the gaps
> actually
> > look really good and even....
> > Rolland suggested I should put silicone between my drip rails and body to
> > prevent water sipping between the two; will do this, but not sure if it
> will
> > be enough to stop this leak.
> > Did anyone have similar experiences/problems and found how to resolve it?
> > I have upper window channel seal installed (the one that sits on outside
> > edge of the doors), but it is "curled-back"; is this the normal, correct
> way
> > how this seal should sit when doors are closed?
> > Could someone please share a close-up picture of this area with doors
> shut,
> > to be able and see if this seal should maybe be bent-out?
> >
> > Thanks a lot, Robert
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
> > Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
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>
>
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> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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-------------- next part --------------
Robert,
On the later cars (mid-73 and later) there is a fresh air induction
system that introduces outside air into the heater box FIA a round
standpipe in the right side of the cavity beneath and outboard of the
wiper grilles. There is a square plenum with a round trap-door lined
with foam above the passenger's feet. When the lever on the dash is
moved one way, outside air is brought in. Move the lever and the door
swings to seal off the outside air and bring in air from the cabin.
The metal standpipe penetrates the sheetmetal in the area under the
grilles and stands proud by about an inch. This prevents water from
pooling in the area and pouring into the heater box. I suppose it's
possible that the join between this pipe and the body could be
compromised.
But personally I doubt that's your problem.....
Mike
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 17, 2018, at 13:43, Robert Stroj <[1]npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
Hi Jeff,
yes, my car got a fresh air vent; are those known to leak?
Any experience on how to solve that?
I do expect this could be the problem as once I washed the car with
nose parked slightly downhill there was no water coming in; next time I
parked the opposite way and glow box was full of water.
Since then I am no longer washing it with water, but still get major
leaks in that area when I get caught in heavy rain.
Can this want be reached by removing vents next to the wipers?
Is there a seal in there that might be missing or went bad with age?
Thanks, Robert
From: Jeff Detrich [[2]mailto:jjdetrich at gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 8:06 AM
To: [3]npdrs at maui.net
Cc: 03Drew; [4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Seals and windshild
Does Robert's car have the fresh air vent that sits right on top of the
glove box? Perhaps this could be the source of the leak.
Kind of have to agree with Mike. Pinhole leaks are really difficult to
find. Suggest you try to locate the leak with water (or something less
viscuous than water) before putting the windshield back in. You might
even try to find it before you take the windshield out by getting under
there with a flashlight while someone sprays a stream of water at
different places.
Not much fun.
Jeff
6559
On Mon, Oct 15, 2018 at 5:05 PM Robert Stroj <[5]npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
Hi Mike,
I really doubt this as I sealed with silicone (I think really well)
the old
rubber, both, where it meets the glass and where it meets the
paint....still
had major leak.
Some of it for sure comes through door seal as I can see water
running along
front edge of my interior door panels.
The most severe leak is somewhere on top of the glovebox (it gets
water into
the glovebox), but no matter how good I looked could not find
nothing
strange; the compartment with windshield wipers all looks really
clean (no
rust or holes) and drain tubes on both sides are totally clean....
Anyway, will install the new windshield seal and at the same time
try
siliconing the drip rail trim to body.
How is the upper door channel rubber seal supposed to close with
door shut;
curled to the inside or "flared" out?
Thanks, Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Drew [mailto:[6]MikeLDrew at aol.com]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2018 11:08 AM
To: Robert Stroj
Cc: [7]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Seals and windshild
Robert,
I would be willing to bet your fuse box area leak is coming from the
bottom
corner of the windshield.
I believe you install the windshield and seal dry, then use the
applicator
on the end of the tube to inject the sealer under the lip to fill
the cavity
since the 'seal' doesn't.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 15, 2018, at 13:49, Robert Stroj <[8]npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
>
> I am just in process of replacing my windshield seal as well as
trying to
> put end on my leaking issues in general.
> I am getting seals from Rolland in Germany, as was suggested by
Mike.
> Old windshield seal will be cut out in order to avoid the risk of
braking
> the glass in removal process.
>
> Was reading various posts on the forum but still have few
questions if
> someone would help with:
>
> 1) I seen in few posts that it is suggested to use 3M sealant when
> installing the new windshield seal.
> I removed/installed successfully few windshields or rear windows
on
> different cars using the soap/electrical wire technique, but
really do not
> understand how it would be possible to use sealant without
creating a big
> mess?
> If I put it inside the seal channel before pulling the wire/rope I
expect
> lots of it will be coming out as I am pulling the wire, probably
getting
all
> over the dashboard etc...
> If I try to put it on metal edge before getting windshield in
place I
expect
> it would similarly get pushed out while the rubber is being pulled
in?
> Could someone please share the actual technique used to install
new
weather
> stripping using 3M windshield sealant?
>
> 2) I got a major leak problem at the front edge of my doors; just
around
the
> fuse panel.
> Car originally cam e with very small round profile for the door
seals and
I
> always thought this was the problem.
> Replaced the seal with much larger one I got from Pantera
Performance and
> now doors do not close that nice any more, but still have a leak
problem
in
> that area.
> Was wondering is my doors are moved too far back, but, all the
gaps
actually
> look really good and even....
> Rolland suggested I should put silicone between my drip rails and
body to
> prevent water sipping between the two; will do this, but not sure
if it
will
> be enough to stop this leak.
> Did anyone have similar experiences/problems and found how to
resolve it?
> I have upper window channel seal installed (the one that sits on
outside
> edge of the doors), but it is "curled-back"; is this the normal,
correct
way
> how this seal should sit when doors are closed?
> Could someone please share a close-up picture of this area with
doors
shut,
> to be able and see if this seal should maybe be bent-out?
>
> Thanks a lot, Robert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
> DeTomaso mailing list
> [9]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> [10]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>
> To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe,
etc.) use
the links above.
>
> Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
any
message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
list.
They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or
approve
the archiving of list messages.
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References
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5. mailto:npdrs at maui.net
6. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
7. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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