[DeTomaso] Seals and windshild

[Rich Hoppe]

My car had a leak from inside the wiper area is.  When they welded the metal tab to hold wires inside of the car they created a small hole with the spot weld.  Easy to fix — hard to find 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 17, 2018, at 8:06 AM, Jeff Detrich <jjdetrich at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>   Does Robert's car have the fresh air vent that sits right on top of the
>   glove box? Perhaps this could be the source of the leak.
>   Kind of have to agree with Mike. Pinhole leaks are really difficult to
>   find. Suggest you try to locate the leak with water (or something less
>   viscuous than water) before putting the windshield back in. You might
>   even try to find it before you take the windshield out by getting under
>   there with a flashlightA  while someone sprays a stream of water at
>   different places.
>   Not much fun.
>   Jeff
>   6559
> 
>   On Mon, Oct 15, 2018 at 5:05 PM Robert Stroj <[1]npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
> 
>     Hi Mike,
>     I really doubt this as I sealed with silicone (I think really well)
>     the old
>     rubber, both, where it meets the glass and where it meets the
>     paint....still
>     had major leak.
>     Some of it for sure comes through door seal as I can see water
>     running along
>     front edge of my interior door panels.
>     The most severe leak is somewhere on top of the glovebox (it gets
>     water into
>     the glovebox), but no matter how good I looked could not find
>     nothing
>     strange; the compartment with windshield wipers all looks really
>     clean (no
>     rust or holes) and drain tubes on both sides are totally clean....
>     Anyway, will install the new windshield seal and at the same time
>     try
>     siliconing the drip rail trim to body.
>     How is the upper door channel rubber seal supposed to close with
>     door shut;
>     curled to the inside or "flared" out?
>     Thanks, Robert
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Mike Drew [mailto:[2]MikeLDrew at aol.com]
>     Sent: Monday, October 15, 2018 11:08 AM
>     To: Robert Stroj
>     Cc: [3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>     Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Seals and windshild
>     Robert,
>     I would be willing to bet your fuse box area leak is coming from the
>     bottom
>     corner of the windshield.
>     I believe you install the windshield and seal dry, then use the
>     applicator
>     on the end of the tube to inject the sealer under the lip to fill
>     the cavity
>     since the 'seal' doesn't.
>     Mike
>     Sent from my iPhone
>> On Oct 15, 2018, at 13:49, Robert Stroj <[4]npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I am just in process of replacing my windshield seal as well as
>     trying to
>> put end on my leaking issues in general.
>> I am getting seals from Rolland in Germany, as was suggested by
>     Mike.
>> Old windshield seal will be cut out in order to avoid the risk of
>     braking
>> the glass in removal process.
>> 
>> Was reading various posts on the forum but still have few
>     questions if
>> someone would help with:
>> 
>> 1) I seen in few posts that it is suggested to use 3M sealant when
>> installing the new windshield seal.
>> I removed/installed successfully few windshields or rear windows
>     on
>> different cars using the soap/electrical wire technique, but
>     really do not
>> understand how it would be possible to use sealant without
>     creating a big
>> mess?
>> If I put it inside the seal channel before pulling the wire/rope I
>     expect
>> lots of it will be coming out as I am pulling the wire, probably
>     getting
>     all
>> over the dashboard etc...
>> If I try to put it on metal edge before getting windshield in
>     place I
>     expect
>> it would similarly get pushed out while the rubber is being pulled
>     in?
>> Could someone please share the actual technique used to install
>     new
>     weather
>> stripping using 3M windshield sealant?
>> 
>> 2) I got a major leak problem at the front edge of my doors; just
>     around
>     the
>> fuse panel.
>> Car originally cam e with very small round profile for the door
>     seals and
>     I
>> always thought this was the problem.
>> Replaced the seal with much larger one I got from Pantera
>     Performance and
>> now doors do not close that nice any more, but still have a leak
>     problem
>     in
>> that area.
>> Was wondering is my doors are moved too far back, but, all the
>     gaps
>     actually
>> look really good and even....
>> Rolland suggested I should put silicone between my drip rails and
>     body to
>> prevent water sipping between the two; will do this, but not sure
>     if it
>     will
>> be enough to stop this leak.
>> Did anyone have similar experiences/problems and found how to
>     resolve it?
>> I have upper window channel seal installed (the one that sits on
>     outside
>> edge of the doors), but it is "curled-back"; is this the normal,
>     correct
>     way
>> how this seal should sit when doors are closed?
>> Could someone please share a close-up picture of this area with
>     doors
>     shut,
>> to be able and see if this seal should maybe be bent-out?
>> 
>> Thanks a lot, Robert
>> 
>> 
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> References
> 
>   1. mailto:npdrs at maui.net
>   2. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
>   3. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>   4. mailto:npdrs at maui.net
>   5. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>   6. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
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