[DeTomaso] Seals and windshild

Robert Stroj npdrs at maui.net
Mon Oct 15 18:04:52 EDT 2018


Hi Mike,

I really doubt this as I sealed with silicone (I think really well) the old
rubber, both, where it meets the glass and where it meets the paint....still
had major leak.
Some of it for sure comes through door seal as I can see water running along
front edge of my interior door panels.
The most severe leak is somewhere on top of the glovebox (it gets water into
the glovebox), but no matter how good I looked could not find nothing
strange; the compartment with windshield wipers all looks really clean (no
rust or holes) and drain tubes on both sides are totally clean....

Anyway, will install the new windshield seal and at the same time try
siliconing the drip rail trim to body.

How is the upper door channel rubber seal supposed to close with door shut;
curled to the inside or "flared" out?

Thanks, Robert

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Drew [mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2018 11:08 AM
To: Robert Stroj
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Seals and windshild

Robert,

I would be willing to bet your fuse box area leak is coming from the bottom
corner of the windshield. 

I believe you install the windshield and seal dry, then use the applicator
on the end of the tube to inject the sealer under the lip to fill the cavity
since the 'seal' doesn't. 

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 15, 2018, at 13:49, Robert Stroj <npdrs at maui.net> wrote:
> 
> I am just in process of replacing my windshield seal as well as trying to
> put end on my leaking issues in general.
> I am getting seals from Rolland in Germany, as was suggested by Mike.
> Old windshield seal will be cut out in order to avoid the risk of braking
> the glass in removal process.
> 
> Was reading various posts on the forum but still have few questions if
> someone would help with:
> 
> 1) I seen in few posts that it is suggested to use 3M sealant when
> installing the new windshield seal. 
> I removed/installed successfully few windshields or rear windows on
> different cars using the soap/electrical wire technique, but really do not
> understand how it would be possible to use sealant without creating a big
> mess?
> If I put it inside the seal channel before pulling the wire/rope I expect
> lots of it will be coming out as I am pulling the wire, probably getting
all
> over the dashboard etc...
> If I try to put it on metal edge before getting windshield in place I
expect
> it would similarly get pushed out while the rubber is being pulled in?
> Could someone please share the actual technique used to install new
weather
> stripping using 3M windshield sealant?
> 
> 2) I got a major leak problem at the front edge of my doors; just around
the
> fuse panel.
> Car originally cam e with very small round profile for the door seals and
I
> always thought this was the problem.
> Replaced the seal with much larger one I got from Pantera Performance and
> now doors do not close that nice any more, but still have a leak problem
in
> that area.
> Was wondering is my doors are moved too far back, but, all the gaps
actually
> look really good and even....
> Rolland suggested I should put silicone between my drip rails and body to
> prevent water sipping between the two; will do this, but not sure if it
will
> be enough to stop this leak.
> Did anyone have similar experiences/problems and found how to resolve it?
> I have upper window channel seal installed (the one that sits on outside
> edge of the doors), but it is "curled-back"; is this the normal, correct
way
> how this seal should sit when doors are closed?
> Could someone please share a close-up picture of this area with doors
shut,
> to be able and see if this seal should maybe be bent-out?
> 
> Thanks a lot, Robert
> 
> 
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