[DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud
jderyke at aol.com
jderyke at aol.com
Fri Jul 20 03:01:24 EDT 2018
To use bolt stretch, both ends of the fastener must be exposed and ground flat. So no- not possible, same as for capscrew connecting rods. If you really want to be more accurate, get your torque wrench calibrated; most are off by 15-20%. Someone once said clicker-type torque wrenches are least accurate and plain beam types are the most accurate.
-----Original Message-----
From: Pantdino via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: kenn_green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 1:46 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud
I think torque is what causes the stretch and the amount of torque
determines the amount of stretch.
A lubricated thread has less friction than a non-lubricated one , so
you have to decrease the amount of torque applied. The friction in the
thread is part of what you are overcoming with your torque wrench
But Jack is the real expert here. Maybe heall chime in.
Jim
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Tuesday, July 17, 2018, Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com> wrote:
I recall that stretch is more accurate then torque. I wonder if there
is a reliable way to compare turn after contact with stretch? I guess
that's a stretch?
Ken
__________________________________________________________________
From: Pantdino via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: larrys at panteraparts.com
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2018 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud
But keep in mind that anti-seize is acting like a lubricant as you
tighten the nut, so you need to subtract maybe 10% from the torque
applied. Certainly donat exceed it.
Jim
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Monday, July 16, 2018, Larry Stock <[1]larrys at panteraparts.com>
wrote:
Dear Sean, and all Pantera Owners, please liberally use anti-seize
on all
your wheel studs each time you take off a lug nut to avoid this
situation.
What Sean will need to properly fix this is typically a new $700+
billet
axle & Bearing installation to properly cure his problem. Please
take a
little more care and prevent the dilemma that Sean has endured.
Larry Stock
On 7/16/18, 5:26 PM, "DeTomaso on behalf of sean mundy"
<detomaso-[1][2]bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
[2][3]seanmundy at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I tried all the suggestions with no luck. The jack idea did put
> pressure on the wheel but I was nervous to really apply a lot of
force.
> I've already screwed up enough. I just drilled out the stud and was
> able to get the last lug nut off and remove the wheel.
> Only took about 10min using three different drill bit sizes.
> Now the hard part begins taking the rest of the hub apart. And
spending
> $$$
> From: [1]sean mundy
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:57 PM
> To: [2][3][4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com,
[3][4][5]larry at ohiotimecorp.com
> You are using the jack between the bottom of the wheels and pushing
> them against each other??
> From:
[5][6]larry at ohiotimecorp.com<[6]mailto:[7]larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:33 PM
> To:
>
[7][8]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com<[8]mailto:[9]detomaso at server.det
omasol
ist.co
> m>
> I'm with Jeff on this one. Pressure baby pressure.
> I have had to do this a time or two. I have two 4" X 4" with about
a
6"
> X 6" plywood screwed to the ends. The plywood goes on
> the inside of each rim, for protection. You then place a scissor
jack
> in the center to apply pressure against the rim. Not too
> much pressure, just enough pressure.
> Make sure the spinning stud is down on the bottom to get most of
the
> pressure. Youse your electric impact to give it a good
> shot.
> Larry (worked for me) - Cleveland
> Sean:
> Since the other three lugs came off, try prying the wheel away from
the
> hub cocking the wheel a bit. You'll probably need a
> piece of wood or something that won't damage the wheel. The idea is
to
> put enough load on the studs that the hat on the back
> of the stud will bind against the axle flange "freezing" the stud
and
> then the impact wrench will loosen the nut. This might
> take a bit of force and finesse, and several sets of hands.
> It's been some time since I've had mine apart, but if you can get
the
> wheel off, you might be able to get a wire-feed or stick
> welder in there far enough to spot weld the stud and hold it in
place
> until you want to change the studs.
> Good luck and don't swear too much!!
> Jeff 2467
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-------------- next part --------------
To use bolt stretch, both ends of the fastener must be exposed and
ground flat. So no- not possible, same as for capscrew connecting rods.
If you really want to be more accurate, get your torque wrench
calibrated; most are off by 15-20%. Someone once said clicker-type
torque wrenches are least accurate and plain beam types are the most
accurate.
-----Original Message-----
From: Pantdino via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: kenn_green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 1:46 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud
I think torque is what causes the stretch and the amount of torque
determines the amount of stretch.
A lubricated thread has less friction than a non-lubricated one , so
you have to decrease the amount of torque applied. The friction in the
thread is part of what you are overcoming with your torque wrench
But Jack is the real expert here. Maybe heall chime in.
Jim
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Tuesday, July 17, 2018, Ken Green <[1]kenn_green at yahoo.com> wrote:
I recall that stretch is more accurate then torque. I wonder if there
is a reliable way to compare turn after contact with stretch? I guess
that's a stretch?
Ken
__________________________________________________________________
From: Pantdino via DeTomaso <[2]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: [3]larrys at panteraparts.com
Cc: [4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2018 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud
But keep in mind that anti-seize is acting like a lubricant as you
tighten the nut, so you need to subtract maybe 10% from the torque
applied. Certainly donat exceed it.
Jim
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Monday, July 16, 2018, Larry Stock <[1][5]larrys at panteraparts.com>
wrote:
Dear Sean, and all Pantera Owners, please liberally use anti-seize
on all
your wheel studs each time you take off a lug nut to avoid this
situation.
What Sean will need to properly fix this is typically a new $700+
billet
axle & Bearing installation to properly cure his problem. Please
take a
little more care and prevent the dilemma that Sean has endured.
Larry Stock
On 7/16/18, 5:26 PM, "DeTomaso on behalf of sean mundy"
<detomaso-[1][2][6]bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
[2][3][7]seanmundy at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I tried all the suggestions with no luck. The jack idea did put
> pressure on the wheel but I was nervous to really apply a lot of
force.
> I've already screwed up enough. I just drilled out the stud and was
> able to get the last lug nut off and remove the wheel.
> Only took about 10min using three different drill bit sizes.
> Now the hard part begins taking the rest of the hub apart. And
spending
> $$$
> From: [1]sean mundy
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:57 PM
> To: [2][3][4][8]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com,
[3][4][5][9]larry at ohiotimecorp.com
> You are using the jack between the bottom of the wheels and pushing
> them against each other??
> From:
[5][6][10]larry at ohiotimecorp.com<[6][11]mailto:[7]larry at ohiotimecorp.co
m>
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:33 PM
> To:
>
[7][8][12]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com<[8][13]mailto:[9]detomaso at se
rver.det
omasol
ist.co
> m>
> I'm with Jeff on this one. Pressure baby pressure.
> I have had to do this a time or two. I have two 4" X 4" with about
a
6"
> X 6" plywood screwed to the ends. The plywood goes on
> the inside of each rim, for protection. You then place a scissor
jack
> in the center to apply pressure against the rim. Not too
> much pressure, just enough pressure.
> Make sure the spinning stud is down on the bottom to get most of
the
> pressure. Youse your electric impact to give it a good
> shot.
> Larry (worked for me) - Cleveland
> Sean:
> Since the other three lugs came off, try prying the wheel away from
the
> hub cocking the wheel a bit. You'll probably need a
> piece of wood or something that won't damage the wheel. The idea is
to
> put enough load on the studs that the hat on the back
> of the stud will bind against the axle flange "freezing" the stud
and
> then the impact wrench will loosen the nut. This might
> take a bit of force and finesse, and several sets of hands.
> It's been some time since I've had mine apart, but if you can get
the
> wheel off, you might be able to get a wire-feed or stick
> welder in there far enough to spot weld the stud and hold it in
place
> until you want to change the studs.
> Good luck and don't swear too much!!
> Jeff 2467
> _______________________________________________
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> or approve the archiving of list messages.
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>References
>
> 1. [11][16]mailto:[12]seanmundy at hotmail.com
> 2. [12][17]mailto:[13]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> 3. [13][18]mailto:[14]larry at ohiotimecorp.com
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47. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
48. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
49. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
50. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasol?
51. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
52. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
53. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com?
54. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
55. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
56. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
57. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
58. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
59. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
60. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com?
61. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com?
62. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
63. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
64. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
65. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
66. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
67. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.co?
68. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
69. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
70. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com?
71. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
72. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
73. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
74. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
75. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
76. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
77. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
78. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
79. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
80. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
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