[DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud

Pantdino pantdino at aol.com
Tue Jul 17 16:45:56 EDT 2018


I think torque is what causes the stretch and the amount of torque determines the amount of stretch. 

A lubricated thread has less friction than a non-lubricated one , so you have to decrease the amount of torque applied. The friction in the thread is part of what you are overcoming with your torque wrench  

But Jack is the real expert here. Maybe he’ll chime in. 

Jim

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, July 17, 2018, Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com> wrote:

I recall that stretch is more accurate then torque.  I wonder if there is a reliable way to compare turn after contact with stretch?  I guess that's a stretch?

Ken


From: Pantdino via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: larrys at panteraparts.com 
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2018 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud

  But keep in mind that anti-seize is acting like a lubricant as you
  tighten the nut, so you need to subtract maybe 10% from the torque
  applied. Certainly donat exceed it.

  Jim
  Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
  On Monday, July 16, 2018, Larry Stock <larrys at panteraparts.com> wrote:

    Dear Sean, and all Pantera Owners, please liberally use anti-seize
    on all
    your wheel studs each time you take off a lug nut to avoid this
    situation.
    What Sean will need to properly fix this is typically a new $700+
    billet
    axle & Bearing installation to properly cure his problem. Please
    take a
    little more care and prevent the dilemma that Sean has endured.
    Larry Stock

  On 7/16/18, 5:26 PM, "DeTomaso on behalf of sean mundy"
  <detomaso-[1]bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
  [2]seanmundy at hotmail.com> wrote:
  > I tried all the suggestions with no luck. The jack idea did put
  > pressure on the wheel but I was nervous to really apply a lot of
  force.
  > I've already screwed up enough. I just drilled out the stud and was
  > able to get the last lug nut off and remove the wheel.
  > Only took about 10min using three different drill bit sizes.
  > Now the hard part begins taking the rest of the hub apart. And
  spending
  > $$$
  > From: [1]sean mundy
  > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:57 PM
  > To: [2][3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com,
  [3][4]larry at ohiotimecorp.com
  > You are using the jack between the bottom of the wheels and pushing
  > them against each other??
  > From: [5]larry at ohiotimecorp.com<[6]mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
  > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:33 PM
  > To:
  >
  [7]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com<[8]mailto:detomaso at server.detomasol
  ist.co
  > m>
  > I'm with Jeff on this one. Pressure baby pressure.
  > I have had to do this a time or two. I have two 4" X 4" with about a
  6"
  > X 6" plywood screwed to the ends. The plywood goes on
  > the inside of each rim, for protection. You then place a scissor jack
  > in the center to apply pressure against the rim. Not too
  > much pressure, just enough pressure.
  > Make sure the spinning stud is down on the bottom to get most of the
  > pressure. Youse your electric impact to give it a good
  > shot.
  > Larry (worked for me) - Cleveland
  > Sean:
  > Since the other three lugs came off, try prying the wheel away from
  the
  > hub cocking the wheel a bit. You'll probably need a
  > piece of wood or something that won't damage the wheel. The idea is
  to
  > put enough load on the studs that the hat on the back
  > of the stud will bind against the axle flange "freezing" the stud and
  > then the impact wrench will loosen the nut. This might
  > take a bit of force and finesse, and several sets of hands.
  > It's been some time since I've had mine apart, but if you can get the
  > wheel off, you might be able to get a wire-feed or stick
  > welder in there far enough to spot weld the stud and hold it in place
  > until you want to change the studs.
  > Good luck and don't swear too much!!
  > Jeff 2467
  > _______________________________________________
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  >
  >References
  >
  > 1. [11]mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com
  > 2. [12]mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  > 3. [13]mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
  >_______________________________________________
  >
  >
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References

  1. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
  2. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com
  3. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  4. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
  5. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
  6. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
  7. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  8. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.co?
  9. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  10. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
  11. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com?
  12. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com?
  13. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
  14. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  15. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
  16. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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-------------- next part --------------
   I think torque is what causes the stretch and the amount of torque
   determines the amount of stretch.

   A lubricated thread has less friction than a non-lubricated one , so
   you have to decrease the amount of torque applied. The friction in the
   thread is part of what you are overcoming with your torque wrench

   But Jack is the real expert here. Maybe heall chime in.

   Jim
   Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
   On Tuesday, July 17, 2018, Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com> wrote:

   I recall that stretch is more accurate then torque.  I wonder if there
   is a reliable way to compare turn after contact with stretch?  I guess
   that's a stretch?
   Ken
     __________________________________________________________________

   From: Pantdino via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
   To: larrys at panteraparts.com
   Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2018 11:45 AM
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud
     But keep in mind that anti-seize is acting like a lubricant as you
     tighten the nut, so you need to subtract maybe 10% from the torque
     applied. Certainly donat exceed it.
     Jim
     Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
     On Monday, July 16, 2018, Larry Stock <[1]larrys at panteraparts.com>
   wrote:
       Dear Sean, and all Pantera Owners, please liberally use anti-seize
       on all
       your wheel studs each time you take off a lug nut to avoid this
       situation.
       What Sean will need to properly fix this is typically a new $700+
       billet
       axle & Bearing installation to properly cure his problem. Please
       take a
       little more care and prevent the dilemma that Sean has endured.
       Larry Stock
     On 7/16/18, 5:26 PM, "DeTomaso on behalf of sean mundy"
     <detomaso-[1][2]bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
     [2][3]seanmundy at hotmail.com> wrote:
     > I tried all the suggestions with no luck. The jack idea did put
     > pressure on the wheel but I was nervous to really apply a lot of
     force.
     > I've already screwed up enough. I just drilled out the stud and was
     > able to get the last lug nut off and remove the wheel.
     > Only took about 10min using three different drill bit sizes.
     > Now the hard part begins taking the rest of the hub apart. And
     spending
     > $$$
     > From: [1]sean mundy
     > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:57 PM
     > To: [2][3][4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com,
     [3][4][5]larry at ohiotimecorp.com
     > You are using the jack between the bottom of the wheels and pushing
     > them against each other??
     > From:
   [5][6]larry at ohiotimecorp.com<[6]mailto:[7]larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
     > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:33 PM
     > To:
     >

   [7][8]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com<[8]mailto:[9]detomaso at server.det
   omasol
     ist.co
     > m>
     > I'm with Jeff on this one. Pressure baby pressure.
     > I have had to do this a time or two. I have two 4" X 4" with about
   a
     6"
     > X 6" plywood screwed to the ends. The plywood goes on
     > the inside of each rim, for protection. You then place a scissor
   jack
     > in the center to apply pressure against the rim. Not too
     > much pressure, just enough pressure.
     > Make sure the spinning stud is down on the bottom to get most of
   the
     > pressure. Youse your electric impact to give it a good
     > shot.
     > Larry (worked for me) - Cleveland
     > Sean:
     > Since the other three lugs came off, try prying the wheel away from
     the
     > hub cocking the wheel a bit. You'll probably need a
     > piece of wood or something that won't damage the wheel. The idea is
     to
     > put enough load on the studs that the hat on the back
     > of the stud will bind against the axle flange "freezing" the stud
   and
     > then the impact wrench will loosen the nut. This might
     > take a bit of force and finesse, and several sets of hands.
     > It's been some time since I've had mine apart, but if you can get
   the
     > wheel off, you might be able to get a wire-feed or stick
     > welder in there far enough to spot weld the stud and hold it in
   place
     > until you want to change the studs.
     > Good luck and don't swear too much!!
     > Jeff 2467
     > _______________________________________________
     > Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
     > Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
     > DeTomaso mailing list
     > [9][10]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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   etc.)
     > use the links above.
     > Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
     any
     > message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
     > list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an
     archive
     > or approve the archiving of list messages.
     >
     >References
     >
     > 1. [11]mailto:[12]seanmundy at hotmail.com
     > 2. [12]mailto:[13]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
     > 3. [13]mailto:[14]larry at ohiotimecorp.com
     >_______________________________________________
     >
     >
     >Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
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     8. mailto:[26]detomaso at server.detomasolist.co?
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     13. mailto:[31]larry at ohiotimecorp.com?
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References

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   2. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
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   4. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   5. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
   6. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
   7. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
   8. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   9. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasol
  10. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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  12. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com
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  14. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
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  20. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com
  21. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  22. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
  23. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
  24. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
  25. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  26. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.co
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  29. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com
  30. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  31. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
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