[DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud

[Scott Mead Photography]

One additional thing about anti-seize and brakes from my own experience:
Don't use anti-seize when pressing  wheel studs into the rotor/hub assembly
(or hats if you're using Wilwood or other 2-piece rotor/hat assemblies).
Unbeknownst to me, a shop did that on my car when they installed the
Wilwoods. Before the first  run up Haleakala (post brake job), I torqued all
the lug nuts to 85-pounds. About a third of the way up the car felt really
twitchy, so I flipped her around and upon returning home, found eight of the
20 lug nuts wrench or finger tight. Fast forward: I took the car to a
friend's shop, and learned that a liberal amount of anti-seize was used on
all the studs! The old studs came out with an easy tap of a hammer,  new
studs (with splines) were pressed in and the wheels have remained tightly
attached ever since.

-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf
Of Larry Stock
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 5:47 PM
To: sean mundy; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; larry at ohiotimecorp.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud

Dear Sean, and all Pantera Owners, please liberally use anti-seize on all
your wheel studs each time you take off a lug nut to avoid this situation.

What Sean will need to properly fix this is typically a new $700+ billet
axle & Bearing installation to properly cure his problem. Please take a
little more care and prevent the dilemma that Sean has endured.

Larry Stock


On 7/16/18, 5:26 PM, "DeTomaso on behalf of sean mundy"
<detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
seanmundy at hotmail.com> wrote:

>   I tried all the suggestions with no luck.  The jack idea did put
>   pressure on the wheel but I was nervous to really apply a lot of force.
>   I've already screwed up enough.   I just drilled out the stud and was
>   able to get the last lug nut off and remove the wheel.
>   Only took about 10min using three different drill bit sizes.
>   Now the hard part begins taking the rest of the hub apart. And spending
>   $$$
>   From: [1]sean mundy
>   Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:57 PM
>   To: [2]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com, [3]larry at ohiotimecorp.com
>   You are using the jack between the bottom of the wheels and pushing
>   them against each other??
>   From: larry at ohiotimecorp.com<mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
>   Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 2:33 PM
>   To:
>   detomaso at server.detomasolist.com<mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.co
>   m>
>   I'm with Jeff on this one.       Pressure baby pressure.
>   I have had to do this a time or two. I have two 4" X 4" with about a 6"
>   X 6" plywood screwed to the ends. The plywood goes on
>   the inside of each rim, for protection. You then place a scissor jack
>   in the center to apply pressure against the rim. Not too
>   much pressure, just enough pressure.
>   Make sure the spinning stud is down on the bottom to get most of the
>   pressure. Youse your electric impact to give it a good
>   shot.
>   Larry (worked for me) - Cleveland
>   Sean:
>   Since the other three lugs came off, try prying the wheel away from the
>   hub cocking the wheel a bit.  You'll probably need a
>   piece of wood or something that won't damage the wheel.  The idea is to
>   put enough load on the studs that the hat on the back
>   of the stud will bind against the axle flange "freezing" the stud and
>   then the impact wrench will loosen the nut.  This might
>   take a bit of force and finesse, and several sets of hands.
>   It's been some time since I've had mine apart, but if you can get the
>   wheel off, you might be able to get a wire-feed or stick
>   welder in there far enough to spot weld the stud and hold it in place
>   until you want to change the studs.
>   Good luck and don't swear too much!!
>   Jeff 2467
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>References
>
>   1. mailto:seanmundy at hotmail.com
>   2. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>   3. mailto:larry at ohiotimecorp.com
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