[DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud

[jderyke at aol.com]

No one has suggested a way for this to NOT HAPPEN again. What's occurred is, the anti-rotation splines on the wheel studs that are supposed to bite into the sides of the hole(s) in the steel axle (in rear) or steel hub (in front) have been torn away, or the holes were roached out for a variety of causes. So there is metal missing and it will happen again with a fresh wheel stud just as easily. The stock studs are high-carbon steel and cannot be welded or brazed well enough to hold, so forget that. Welded studs ALWAYS crack, and weld heat weakens them anyway.  Heavily peening around the whole periphery of an enlarged hole probably will not last long either, because you're only affecting the outsides of a deep hole in forged steel.

Either put enough pressure on the outside of the steel part(s) to visibly distort the bad hole so the pressed in splines again bite in- at least partially.  Use red lock-tite on the studs, press them in slowly and let the lock-tite set up for a day before tightening a wheel up, all the time not so badly distorting the flange that the alloy wheel flange won't sit firmly against it. Careful file work may be needed. This may turn out to be a temporary fix.

Or redrill the proper size holes in an undrilled part of the axle or hub so the correct interference is again present and the anti-rotetion splines can bite in. This is a sure thing!  Rewelding and redrilling, then reaming the holes to correct size means removing the bearings and races, or weld heat will affect them, too. Using only hand tools will be a real challenge as it all need careful machining. A bad rear stub axle CANNOT be repaired by either method while installed in the car. This may be a reason to upgrade the rear stub axles to much stronger aftermarket axles AND new stock wheel studs. All vendors carry such things in stock for Panteras.
My best guess- J Deryke


-----Original Message-----
From: larry <larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Sent: Mon, Jul 16, 2018 2:34 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud


I'm with Jeff on this one. Pressure baby pressure.

I have had to do this a time or two. I have two 4" X 4" with about a 6" X 6" plywood screwed to the ends. The plywood goes on
the inside of each rim, for protection. You then place a scissor jack in the center to apply pressure against the rim. Not too
much pressure, just enough pressure.

Make sure the spinning stud is down on the bottom to get most of the pressure. Youse your electric impact to give it a good
shot.

Larry (worked for me) - Cleveland




Sean:


Since the other three lugs came off, try prying the wheel away from the hub cocking the wheel a bit. You'll probably need a
piece of wood or something that won't damage the wheel. The idea is to put enough load on the studs that the hat on the back
of the stud will bind against the axle flange "freezing" the stud and then the impact wrench will loosen the nut. This might
take a bit of force and finesse, and several sets of hands.


It's been some time since I've had mine apart, but if you can get the wheel off, you might be able to get a wire-feed or stick
welder in there far enough to spot weld the stud and hold it in place until you want to change the studs.


Good luck and don't swear too much!!


Jeff 2467

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-------------- next part --------------
   No one has suggested a way for this to NOT HAPPEN again. What's
   occurred is, the anti-rotation splines on the wheel studs that are
   supposed to bite into the sides of the hole(s) in the steel axle (in
   rear) or steel hub (in front) have been torn away, or the holes were
   roached out for a variety of causes. So there is metal missing and it
   will happen again with a fresh wheel stud just as easily. The stock
   studs are high-carbon steel and cannot be welded or brazed well enough
   to hold, so forget that. Welded studs ALWAYS crack, and weld heat
   weakens them anyway.  Heavily peening around the whole periphery of an
   enlarged hole probably will not last long either, because you're only
   affecting the outsides of a deep hole in forged steel.
   Either put enough pressure on the outside of the steel part(s) to
   visibly distort the bad hole so the pressed in splines again bite in-
   at least partially.  Use red lock-tite on the studs, press them in
   slowly and let the lock-tite set up for a day before tightening a wheel
   up, all the time not so badly distorting the flange that the alloy
   wheel flange won't sit firmly against it. Careful file work may be
   needed. This may turn out to be a temporary fix.
   Or redrill the proper size holes in an undrilled part of the axle or
   hub so the correct interference is again present and the anti-rotetion
   splines can bite in. This is a sure thing!  Rewelding and redrilling,
   then reaming the holes to correct size means removing the bearings and
   races, or weld heat will affect them, too. Using only hand tools will
   be a real challenge as it all need careful machining. A bad rear stub
   axle CANNOT be repaired by either method while installed in the car.
   This may be a reason to upgrade the rear stub axles to much stronger
   aftermarket axles AND new stock wheel studs. All vendors carry such
   things in stock for Panteras.
   My best guess- J Deryke
   -----Original Message-----
   From: larry <larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
   To: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
   Sent: Mon, Jul 16, 2018 2:34 pm
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Spinning wheel stud
   I'm with Jeff on this one. Pressure baby pressure.
   I have had to do this a time or two. I have two 4" X 4" with about a 6"
   X 6" plywood screwed to the ends. The plywood goes on
   the inside of each rim, for protection. You then place a scissor jack
   in the center to apply pressure against the rim. Not too
   much pressure, just enough pressure.
   Make sure the spinning stud is down on the bottom to get most of the
   pressure. Youse your electric impact to give it a good
   shot.
   Larry (worked for me) - Cleveland
   Sean:
   Since the other three lugs came off, try prying the wheel away from the
   hub cocking the wheel a bit. You'll probably need a
   piece of wood or something that won't damage the wheel. The idea is to
   put enough load on the studs that the hat on the back
   of the stud will bind against the axle flange "freezing" the stud and
   then the impact wrench will loosen the nut. This might
   take a bit of force and finesse, and several sets of hands.
   It's been some time since I've had mine apart, but if you can get the
   wheel off, you might be able to get a wire-feed or stick
   welder in there far enough to spot weld the stud and hold it in place
   until you want to change the studs.
   Good luck and don't swear too much!!
   Jeff 2467
   _______________________________________________
   Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
   Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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   use the links above.
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   message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
   or approve the archiving of list messages.

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