[DeTomaso] Clutch master help please
Don Franck
panteradon at gmail.com
Sun Jul 8 15:12:03 EDT 2018
Thanks Mike we happen to be sitting here discussing that very thing. Back
to the garage!
On Sunday, July 8, 2018, Mike Drew MikeLDrew at aol.com [SCPOCA] <
SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
>
> Don,
>
> You can always get to the snap rings. They sell snap ring pliers with a 90
> degree bend.
>
> But here is your solution:
>
> Loosen the lock nut that attaches your old pushrod to the clevis, which is
> stuck you say. Then simply unthread the pushrod from the clevis and remove
> the old master.
>
> Compare the length of the old and new pushrods. If the new one is longer,
> cut it to the same length as the old one.
>
> Remove the clevis from the new master pushrod, and thread that (maybe now
> shortened) pushrod into the old clevis which is stuck in the car. Bolt the
> master in place, then turn the pushrod as necessary to raise or lower the
> clutch pedal. Then tighten the locknut to prevent it from moving.
>
> Then fill and bleed the master as necessary.
>
> Oh—some masters have a helper spring under the rubber boot. I believe this
> spring is unnecessary and may interfere with normal operation, but I would
> like to hear what others have to say about it.
>
> Having said all of that, there is no good reason you shouldn’t be able to
> dismantle the linkage. If you can’t take it apart then it is probably in
> horrible shape and NEEDS to be taken apart just to function properly.
>
> If you disconnect the brake lines from the brake master (after draining
> fluid of course) it’s easy to unbolt the aluminum master and pedal block
> casting and move it forward several inches. That then allows great access
> to the linkage and you can apply much more force, heat, percussion etc as
> necessary to get it apart....
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 8, 2018, at 20:38, Don Franck panteradon at gmail.com [SCPOCA] <
> SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> The continuing saga of the impossible to replace clutch master cylinder.
>
> The easy way to change the master was to use the old rod and washer in the
> new cylinder. But, the new cylinder is 1/100 of an inch smaller than the
> old one.
>
> We cannot drive the pin out of the triangular part of the effort reduction
> kit to remove the old rod. We have soaked it in penetrating oil for a week.
>
> We can’t get the entire triangular piece out because you can’t get to the
> snap ring.
>
> Arrrrggggggg... This is beyond my abilities.
>
> What are the options now?
>
> Can i slot the new washer to go over the old rod then snap ring it into
> the new master?
>
> I am not sure i hsve the ability to pull the entire brake box out.
>
> Attatched th the picture of the new master and the washer i was thinking
> of slotting.
>
> Help me please!!!
>
> Don in Houston
>
>
> --
> Don
>
> <E284E94A-C7DB-4010-8746-852F8822E688.jpeg>
>
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Don
-------------- next part --------------
Thanks Mike we happen to be sitting here discussing that very thing.A
Back to the garage!
On Sunday, July 8, 2018, Mike Drew [1]MikeLDrew at aol.com [SCPOCA]
<[2]SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com> wrote:
A
Don,
You can always get to the snap rings. They sell snap ring pliers with a
90 degree bend.A
But here is your solution:
Loosen the lock nut that attaches your old pushrod to the clevis, which
is stuck you say. Then simply unthread the pushrod from the clevis and
remove the old master.
Compare the length of the old and new pushrods. If the new one is
longer, cut it to the same length as the old one.A
Remove the clevis from the new master pushrod, and thread that (maybe
now shortened) pushrod into the old clevis which is stuck in the car.
Bolt the master in place, then turn the pushrod as necessary to raise
or lower the clutch pedal. Then tighten the locknut to prevent it from
moving.A
Then fill and bleed the master as necessary.A
Ohasome masters have a helper spring under the rubber boot. I believe
this spring is unnecessary and may interfere with normal operation, but
I would like to hear what others have to say about it.A
Having said all of that, there is no good reason you shouldnat be able
to dismantle the linkage. If you canat take it apart then it is
probably in horrible shape and NEEDS to be taken apart just to function
properly.A
If you disconnect the brake lines from the brake master (after draining
fluid of course) itas easy to unbolt the aluminum master and pedal
block casting and move it forward several inches. That then allows
great access to the linkage and you can apply much more force, heat,
percussion etc as necessary to get it apart....
Mike
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 8, 2018, at 20:38, Don Franck [3]panteradon at gmail.com [SCPOCA]
<[4]SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com> wrote:
The continuing saga of the impossible to replace clutch master
cylinder.
The easy way to change the master was to use the old rod and washer in
the new cylinder.A But, the new cylinder is 1/100 of an inch smaller
than the old one.
We cannot drive the pin out of the triangular part of the effort
reduction kit to remove the old rod.A We have soaked it in penetrating
oil for a week.
We canat get the entire triangular piece out because you canat get to
the snap ring.
Arrrrggggggg... This is beyond my abilities.
What are the options now?
Can i slot the new washer to go over the old rod then snap ring it into
the new master?
I am not sure i hsve the ability to pull the entire brake box out.
Attatched th the picture of the new master and the washer i was
thinking of slotting.
Help me please!!!
Don in Houston
--
Don
<E284E94A-C7DB-4010-8746-852F8822E688.jpeg>
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Don
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