[DeTomaso] [SCPOCA] Clutch master help please [1 Attachment]

Sun Jul 8 15:09:06 EDT 2018

Don,

You can always get to the snap rings. They sell snap ring pliers with a 90 degree bend. 

But here is your solution:

Loosen the lock nut that attaches your old pushrod to the clevis, which is stuck you say. Then simply unthread the pushrod from the clevis and remove the old master.

Compare the length of the old and new pushrods. If the new one is longer, cut it to the same length as the old one. 

Remove the clevis from the new master pushrod, and thread that (maybe now shortened) pushrod into the old clevis which is stuck in the car. Bolt the master in place, then turn the pushrod as necessary to raise or lower the clutch pedal. Then tighten the locknut to prevent it from moving. 

Then fill and bleed the master as necessary. 

Oh—some masters have a helper spring under the rubber boot. I believe this spring is unnecessary and may interfere with normal operation, but I would like to hear what others have to say about it. 

Having said all of that, there is no good reason you shouldn’t be able to dismantle the linkage. If you can’t take it apart then it is probably in horrible shape and NEEDS to be taken apart just to function properly. 

If you disconnect the brake lines from the brake master (after draining fluid of course) it’s easy to unbolt the aluminum master and pedal block casting and move it forward several inches. That then allows great access to the linkage and you can apply much more force, heat, percussion etc as necessary to get it apart....

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 8, 2018, at 20:38, Don Franck panteradon at gmail.com [SCPOCA] <SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> The continuing saga of the impossible to replace clutch master cylinder.
> 
> The easy way to change the master was to use the old rod and washer in the new cylinder.  But, the new cylinder is 1/100 of an inch smaller than the old one.
> 
> We cannot drive the pin out of the triangular part of the effort reduction kit to remove the old rod.  We have soaked it in penetrating oil for a week.
> 
> We can’t get the entire triangular piece out because you can’t get to the snap ring.
> 
> Arrrrggggggg.. This is beyond my abilities.
> 
> What are the options now?
> 
> Can i slot the new washer to go over the old rod then snap ring it into the new master?
> 
> I am not sure i hsve the ability to pull the entire brake box out.
> 
> Attatched th the picture of the new master and the washer i was thinking of slotting.
> 
> Help me please!!!
> 
> Don in Houston
> 
> 
> -- 
> Don
> 
> 
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> Posted by: Don Franck <panteradon at gmail.com>
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-------------- next part --------------
   Don,

   You can always get to the snap rings. They sell snap ring pliers with a
   90 degree bend.

   But here is your solution:

   Loosen the lock nut that attaches your old pushrod to the clevis, which
   is stuck you say. Then simply unthread the pushrod from the clevis and
   remove the old master.

   Compare the length of the old and new pushrods. If the new one is
   longer, cut it to the same length as the old one.

   Remove the clevis from the new master pushrod, and thread that (maybe
   now shortened) pushrod into the old clevis which is stuck in the car.
   Bolt the master in place, then turn the pushrod as necessary to raise
   or lower the clutch pedal. Then tighten the locknut to prevent it from
   moving.

   Then fill and bleed the master as necessary.

   Oh--some masters have a helper spring under the rubber boot. I believe
   this spring is unnecessary and may interfere with normal operation, but
   I would like to hear what others have to say about it.

   Having said all of that, there is no good reason you shouldn't be able
   to dismantle the linkage. If you can't take it apart then it is
   probably in horrible shape and NEEDS to be taken apart just to function
   properly.

   If you disconnect the brake lines from the brake master (after draining
   fluid of course) it's easy to unbolt the aluminum master and pedal
   block casting and move it forward several inches. That then allows
   great access to the linkage and you can apply much more force, heat,
   percussion etc as necessary to get it apart....

   Mike
   Sent from my iPad
   On Jul 8, 2018, at 20:38, Don Franck [1]panteradon at gmail.com [SCPOCA]
   <[2]SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com> wrote:

   The continuing saga of the impossible to replace clutch master
   cylinder.
   The easy way to change the master was to use the old rod and washer in
   the new cylinder.  But, the new cylinder is 1/100 of an inch smaller
   than the old one.
   We cannot drive the pin out of the triangular part of the effort
   reduction kit to remove the old rod.  We have soaked it in penetrating
   oil for a week.
   We can't get the entire triangular piece out because you can't get to
   the snap ring.
   Arrrrggggggg.. This is beyond my abilities.
   What are the options now?
   Can i slot the new washer to go over the old rod then snap ring it into
   the new master?
   I am not sure i hsve the ability to pull the entire brake box out.
   Attatched th the picture of the new master and the washer i was
   thinking of slotting.
   Help me please!!!
   Don in Houston
   --
   Don
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