[DeTomaso] Trying to diagnose weak brakes
Paul Timko
thedrol at pobox.com
Fri Feb 16 22:38:24 EST 2018
How does the pedal feel with the engine off just sitting in the garage?
Does it take a lot of movement before it catches? What about the second
pump? The pedal should have no give after the first press. High and hard.
Paul #9270
On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 8:51 PM Mike & Elizabeth Thomas <
mbefthomas at comcast.net> wrote:
> I've been working through trying to figure what seems like a weakness
> in my brakes on 6328.
>
>
> How do they feel now? There seems like a fair bit of pedal travel
> before they start to hook up. Once they hook, they're fine when I'm
> just in normal traffic and stop and go. If I have to stomp down on
> them, it just doesn't seem like they're biting very well. If I have to
> really stomp on them, I can't get any wheel to lock up at all.
>
>
> Current setup: the brakes are stock Girling, rebuild in 2004. they've
> been fully bled at Les Schwab 6 months ago with DOT 3 (they wouldn't
> use DOT 4 as it was not spec). Yes, they were aware that there were
> two nipples on the front, the tech that handled me has 2 or 3 Panteras
> that come in through the year. The flex lines were replaced with
> stainless lines in 2004 when all of the calipers were rebuilt. The
> vacuum line from the engine to the tube and tube to booster is recent,
> about 3-4 years ago. So far as I know, the proportioning valve has
> been gutted, but not really sure nor know how to be sure. The master
> is an early `80's GM/Cadillac replaced about 10 years ago, the same was
> in the car when I bought it in `04. I've just replaced the Porterfield
> R4S pads. It was rather cold day when I went out to burn them in so
> first speculation is that they are not fully `seasoned'. However, they
> feel about the same as the previous 10-yr old R4S's, and that wouldn't
> explain the pedal travel. The booster is original so far as I know.
>
>
> First question, how much pedal travel should there be before the pedal
> feels resistance the brakes start to take up?
>
>
> So, what else can I check/do out to figure out why my brakes seem so
> lazy. I will try to re-season them when the weather gets warmer, but
> that won't deal with pedal travel. When brake booster starts to fail,
> how does that happen? Gradually or all at once?
>
>
> Your input is appreciated and eagerly awaited. I'd like to get this
> figgered before the season starts as everything else is running a well
> as it ever has.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike Thomas
>
> Pres., Panteras Northwest
>
> 206-795-3302
>
> Yellow '74 #6328
>
> [1]www.panterasnorthwest.com
>
> References
>
> 1. http://www.panterasnorthwest.com/
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-------------- next part --------------
How does the pedal feel with the engine off just sitting in the
garage?A Does it take a lot of movement before it catches?A What
about the second pump?A The pedal should have no give after the first
press. High and hard.A
Paul #9270
On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 8:51 PM Mike & Elizabeth Thomas
<[1]mbefthomas at comcast.net> wrote:
A A I've been working through trying to figure what seems like a
weakness
A A in my brakes on 6328.
A A How do they feel now?A There seems like a fair bit of pedal
travel
A A before they start to hook up.A Once they hook, they're fine
when I'm
A A just in normal traffic and stop and go.A If I have to stomp
down on
A A them, it just doesn't seem like they're biting very well.A If
I have to
A A really stomp on them, I can't get any wheel to lock up at all.
A A Current setup:A the brakes are stock Girling, rebuild in 2004.
they've
A A been fully bled at Les Schwab 6 months ago with DOT 3 (they
wouldn't
A A use DOT 4 as it was not spec).A Yes, they were aware that
there were
A A two nipples on the front, the tech that handled me has 2 or 3
Panteras
A A that come in through the year.A The flex lines were replaced
with
A A stainless lines in 2004 when all of the calipers were
rebuilt.A The
A A vacuum line from the engine to the tube and tube to booster is
recent,
A A about 3-4 years ago.A So far as I know, the proportioning
valve has
A A been gutted, but not really sure nor know how to be sure.A The
master
A A is an early `80's GM/Cadillac replaced about 10 years ago, the
same was
A A in the car when I bought it in `04.A I've just replaced the
Porterfield
A A R4S pads.A It was rather cold day when I went out to burn them
in so
A A first speculation is that they are not fully `seasoned'.A
However, they
A A feel about the same as the previous 10-yr old R4S's, and that
wouldn't
A A explain the pedal travel.A The booster is original so far as I
know.
A A First question, how much pedal travel should there be before
the pedal
A A feels resistance the brakes start to take up?
A A So, what else can I check/do out to figure out why my brakes
seem so
A A lazy.A I will try to re-season them when the weather gets
warmer, but
A A that won't deal with pedal travel.A When brake booster starts
to fail,
A A how does that happen?A Gradually or all at once?
A A Your input is appreciated and eagerly awaited.A I'd like to
get this
A A figgered before the season starts as everything else is running
a well
A A as it ever has.
A A Thanks
A A Mike Thomas
A A Pres., Panteras Northwest
A A 206-795-3302
A A Yellow '74 #6328
A A [1][2]www.panterasnorthwest.com
References
A A 1. [3]http://www.panterasnorthwest.com/
_______________________________________________
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Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an
archive or approve the archiving of list messages.
References
1. mailto:mbefthomas at comcast.net
2. http://www.panterasnorthwest.com/
3. http://www.panterasnorthwest.com/
4. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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