[DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?

Mike Drew MikeLDrew at aol.com
Tue Sep 5 23:44:30 EDT 2017 

Bingo, Jim--it wouldn't. Red herring. 

Marshall missed your original point that the entire car goes dead with the key in the 'run' position, not just the engine ignition system. Ballast resistor has nothing to do with lights, so it can't be the culprit.....

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 5, 2017, at 22:27, Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> Yes, I do have one. First thing I will check!  Thanks
> 
> But how would that cause having no power to the dash?
> 
> Jim
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> On Monday, September 4, 2017, marshall smith <marshallgsmith at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> That is exactly how a car would act that had a bad ballast resistor... If you still have one on your car, check it.
> 
> Sent from AT&T Mail on Android
> 
> From:"Pantdino via DeTomaso" <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Date:Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 9:42 PM
> Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
> 
>   Thanks guys!
> 
>   Fortunately the car is dead over my low-rise lift, so that should help
>   getting my old body into the correct contortions to get under the dash.
>   :)
>   Jim
>   -----Original Message-----
>  
> From: Mike Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
>   To: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
>   Cc: detomaso <detomaso at detomasolist.com>; Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
>   Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 4:19 pm
>   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
>   Jim,
>   While I would agree that it's probably the switch, I would first check
>   the junction block that connects the wires from the ignition switch to
>   the rest of the harness. It's an incredibly hokey connector that can
>   overheat and melt, especially if high-current fans and headlights are
>   fitted. Dot be surprised if your switch is fine but this connector is
>   sizzled.
>   To access it you have to drop the steering column. Follow Bill Taylor's
>   advice--remove the two short bolts closest to the front of the car and
>   replace them with much longer bolts, just threaded in a few turns. Then
>   remove the rear bolts and allow the column to hang from the long bolts.
>   This affords good access without stressing the wiring and connectors
>   and let's you get the plastic housing off from around the ignition
>   switch.
>   If necessary it's very easy to replace the electrical portion of the
>   ignition switch. The plastic housings around the switch are held in
>   with the two bolts you removed, one Phillips screw and one machine
>   screw. Be sure to pay attention which one goes where and remember that
>   it's possible to short things out if you use a too-long screw....
>   Mike
>   Sent from my iPhone
>   > On Sep 4, 2017, at 17:35, Julian Kift <[1]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
>   wrote:
>   >
>   > I think you hit it, ignition switch, to test locate the terminal
>   block
>   > about 6 " from the ignitions switch under the dash / column and
>   jumper
>   > the battery live to the run wire. The electrical portion is held on
>   to
>   > the back of the ignition switch with two screws. You can remove it,
>   > carefully bend the housing tabs and pry it apart, being equally
>   careful
>   > not to lose the spring and ball bearing. The copper ring gets gummed
>   up
>   > over time, I cleaned mine up re-greased and no further issues.
>   >
>   > Alternatively for the electrically challenged Larry Finch always had
>   a
>   > good stock of the electrical portions.
>   >
>   > Julian
>   > __________________________________________________________________
>   >
>   > From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[2]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on
>   behalf of
>   > Pantdino via DeTomaso <[3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
>   > Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 2:29 PM
>   > To: [4]detomaso at detomasolist.com
>   > Subject: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
>   >
>   > My car had no symptoms of this previously, but today when I went to
>   > start it it would only run as long as the key was in the "engage
>   > starter motor" position. As soon as I released the key back to the
>   Run
>   > position it would stop
>   > After several episodes of that, it did start and I backed it out of
>   the
>   > garage, but then it died and refused to start again.
>   > There is no power to the gauges or warning lights in the Run
>   position.
>   > I had similar symptoms with my Alfa once, and it was a bad ignition
>   > switch.
>   > Anything else it could be? I am not very good with wiring diagrams,
>   so
>   > I thought I'd turn to everyone's extensive knowledge before
>   struggling
>   > with it.
>   > Thanks,
>   > Jim
>   > _______________________________________________
>   >
>   >
>   > Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
>   > Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
>   > DeTomaso mailing list
>   > [5]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>   > [6]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>   >
>   > To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
>   use the links above.
>   >
>   > Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
>   any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
>   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
>   or approve the archiving of list messages.
> 
> References
> 
>   1. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
>   2. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
>   3. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>   4. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
>   5. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> 
>   6. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
-------------- next part --------------
   Bingo, Jim--it wouldn't. Red herring.

   Marshall missed your original point that the entire car goes dead with
   the key in the 'run' position, not just the engine ignition system.
   Ballast resistor has nothing to do with lights, so it can't be the
   culprit.....

   Mike
   Sent from my iPad

   On Sep 5, 2017, at 22:27, Pantdino <[1]pantdino at aol.com> wrote:

   Yes, I do have one. First thing I will check!  Thanks
   But how would that cause having no power to the dash?
   Jim
   Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
   On Monday, September 4, 2017, marshall
   smith <[2]marshallgsmith at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

   That is exactly how a car would act that had a bad ballast resistor...
   If you still have one on your car, check it.

   [3]Sent from AT&T Mail on Android
     __________________________________________________________________

   From:"Pantdino via DeTomaso" <[4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
   Date:Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 9:42 PM
   Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
     Thanks guys!
     Fortunately the car is dead over my low-rise lift, so that should
   help
     getting my old body into the correct contortions to get under the
   dash.
     :)
     Jim
     -----Original Message-----

   From: Mike Drew <[5]MikeLDrew at aol.com>
     To: Julian Kift <[6]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
     Cc: detomaso <[7]detomaso at detomasolist.com>; Pantdino
   <[8]pantdino at aol.com>
     Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 4:19 pm
     Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
     Jim,
     While I would agree that it's probably the switch, I would first
   check
     the junction block that connects the wires from the ignition switch
   to
     the rest of the harness. It's an incredibly hokey connector that can
     overheat and melt, especially if high-current fans and headlights are
     fitted. Dot be surprised if your switch is fine but this connector is
     sizzled.
     To access it you have to drop the steering column. Follow Bill
   Taylor's
     advice--remove the two short bolts closest to the front of the car
   and
     replace them with much longer bolts, just threaded in a few turns.
   Then
     remove the rear bolts and allow the column to hang from the long
   bolts.
     This affords good access without stressing the wiring and connectors
     and let's you get the plastic housing off from around the ignition
     switch.
     If necessary it's very easy to replace the electrical portion of the
     ignition switch. The plastic housings around the switch are held in
     with the two bolts you removed, one Phillips screw and one machine
     screw. Be sure to pay attention which one goes where and remember
   that
     it's possible to short things out if you use a too-long screw....
     Mike
     Sent from my iPhone
     > On Sep 4, 2017, at 17:35, Julian Kift
   <[1][9]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
     wrote:
     >
     > I think you hit it, ignition switch, to test locate the terminal
     block
     > about 6 " from the ignitions switch under the dash / column and
     jumper
     > the battery live to the run wire. The electrical portion is held on
     to
     > the back of the ignition switch with two screws. You can remove it,
     > carefully bend the housing tabs and pry it apart, being equally
     careful
     > not to lose the spring and ball bearing. The copper ring gets
   gummed
     up
     > over time, I cleaned mine up re-greased and no further issues.
     >
     > Alternatively for the electrically challenged Larry Finch always
   had
     a
     > good stock of the electrical portions.
     >
     > Julian
     > __________________________________________________________________
     >
     > From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[2][10]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on
     behalf of
     > Pantdino via DeTomaso <[3][11]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
     > Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 2:29 PM
     > To: [4][12]detomaso at detomasolist.com
     > Subject: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
     >
     > My car had no symptoms of this previously, but today when I went to
     > start it it would only run as long as the key was in the "engage
     > starter motor" position. As soon as I released the key back to the
     Run
     > position it would stop
     > After several episodes of that, it did start and I backed it out of
     the
     > garage, but then it died and refused to start again.
     > There is no power to the gauges or warning lights in the Run
     position.
     > I had similar symptoms with my Alfa once, and it was a bad ignition
     > switch.
     > Anything else it could be? I am not very good with wiring diagrams,
     so
     > I thought I'd turn to everyone's extensive knowledge before
     struggling
     > with it.
     > Thanks,
     > Jim
     > _______________________________________________
     >
     >
     > Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
     > Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
     > DeTomaso mailing list
     > [5][13]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
     > [6][14]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
     >
     > To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe,
   etc.)
     use the links above.
     >
     > Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
     any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of
   the
     list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an
   archive
     or approve the archiving of list messages.
   References
     1. mailto:[15]julian_kift at hotmail.com
     2. mailto:[16]bounces at server.detomasolist.com
     3. mailto:[17]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
     4. mailto:[18]detomaso at detomasolist.com
     5. mailto:[19]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
     6. [20]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso

References

   1. mailto:pantdino at aol.com
   2. mailto:marshallgsmith at sbcglobal.net
   3. https://att.overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android
   4. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   5. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
   6. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
   7. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
   8. mailto:pantdino at aol.com
   9. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
  10. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
  11. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  12. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
  13. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  14. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
  15. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
  16. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
  17. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  18. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
  19. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  20. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso

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