[DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?

Thomas Törnblom thomas at hax.se
Tue Sep 5 02:40:23 EDT 2017


The gauges would still work if the ballast is broken, so the ignition switch is still the likely issue here. 

> 5 sep. 2017 kl. 07:51 skrev marshall smith <marshallgsmith at sbcglobal.net>:
> 
>    That is exactly how a car would act that had a bad ballast resistor...
>   If you still have one on your car, check it.
> 
>   [1]Sent from AT&T Mail on Android
>     __________________________________________________________________
> 
>   From:"Pantdino via DeTomaso" <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
>   Date:Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 9:42 PM
>   Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
>     Thanks guys!
>     Fortunately the car is dead over my low-rise lift, so that should
>   help
>     getting my old body into the correct contortions to get under the
>   dash.
>     :)
>     Jim
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Mike Drew <[2]MikeLDrew at aol.com>
>     To: Julian Kift <[3]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
>     Cc: detomaso <[4]detomaso at detomasolist.com>; Pantdino
>   <[5]pantdino at aol.com>
>     Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 4:19 pm
>     Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
>     Jim,
>     While I would agree that it's probably the switch, I would first
>   check
>     the junction block that connects the wires from the ignition switch
>   to
>     the rest of the harness. It's an incredibly hokey connector that can
>     overheat and melt, especially if high-current fans and headlights are
>     fitted. Dot be surprised if your switch is fine but this connector is
>     sizzled.
>     To access it you have to drop the steering column. Follow Bill
>   Taylor's
>     advice--remove the two short bolts closest to the front of the car
>   and
>     replace them with much longer bolts, just threaded in a few turns.
>   Then
>     remove the rear bolts and allow the column to hang from the long
>   bolts.
>     This affords good access without stressing the wiring and connectors
>     and let's you get the plastic housing off from around the ignition
>     switch.
>     If necessary it's very easy to replace the electrical portion of the
>     ignition switch. The plastic housings around the switch are held in
>     with the two bolts you removed, one Phillips screw and one machine
>     screw. Be sure to pay attention which one goes where and remember
>   that
>     it's possible to short things out if you use a too-long screw....
>     Mike
>     Sent from my iPhone
>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 17:35, Julian Kift
>   <[1][6]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
>     wrote:
>> 
>> I think you hit it, ignition switch, to test locate the terminal
>     block
>> about 6 " from the ignitions switch under the dash / column and
>     jumper
>> the battery live to the run wire. The electrical portion is held on
>     to
>> the back of the ignition switch with two screws. You can remove it,
>> carefully bend the housing tabs and pry it apart, being equally
>     careful
>> not to lose the spring and ball bearing. The copper ring gets
>   gummed
>     up
>> over time, I cleaned mine up re-greased and no further issues.
>> 
>> Alternatively for the electrically challenged Larry Finch always
>   had
>     a
>> good stock of the electrical portions.
>> 
>> Julian
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> 
>> From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[2][7]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on
>     behalf of
>> Pantdino via DeTomaso <[3][8]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
>> Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 2:29 PM
>> To: [4][9]detomaso at detomasolist.com
>> Subject: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
>> 
>> My car had no symptoms of this previously, but today when I went to
>> start it it would only run as long as the key was in the "engage
>> starter motor" position. As soon as I released the key back to the
>     Run
>> position it would stop
>> After several episodes of that, it did start and I backed it out of
>     the
>> garage, but then it died and refused to start again.
>> There is no power to the gauges or warning lights in the Run
>     position.
>> I had similar symptoms with my Alfa once, and it was a bad ignition
>> switch.
>> Anything else it could be? I am not very good with wiring diagrams,
>     so
>> I thought I'd turn to everyone's extensive knowledge before
>     struggling
>> with it.
>> Thanks,
>> Jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
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