[DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
marshall smith
marshallgsmith at sbcglobal.net
Tue Sep 5 01:51:04 EDT 2017
| That is exactly how a car would act that had a bad ballast resistor... If you still have one on your car, check it.
Sent from AT&T Mail on Android
| From:"Pantdino via DeTomaso" <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Date:Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 9:42 PM
Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
Thanks guys!
Fortunately the car is dead over my low-rise lift, so that should help
getting my old body into the correct contortions to get under the dash.
:)
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
To: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at detomasolist.com>; Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 4:19 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
Jim,
While I would agree that it's probably the switch, I would first check
the junction block that connects the wires from the ignition switch to
the rest of the harness. It's an incredibly hokey connector that can
overheat and melt, especially if high-current fans and headlights are
fitted. Dot be surprised if your switch is fine but this connector is
sizzled.
To access it you have to drop the steering column. Follow Bill Taylor's
advice--remove the two short bolts closest to the front of the car and
replace them with much longer bolts, just threaded in a few turns. Then
remove the rear bolts and allow the column to hang from the long bolts.
This affords good access without stressing the wiring and connectors
and let's you get the plastic housing off from around the ignition
switch.
If necessary it's very easy to replace the electrical portion of the
ignition switch. The plastic housings around the switch are held in
with the two bolts you removed, one Phillips screw and one machine
screw. Be sure to pay attention which one goes where and remember that
it's possible to short things out if you use a too-long screw....
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 4, 2017, at 17:35, Julian Kift <[1]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> I think you hit it, ignition switch, to test locate the terminal
block
> about 6 " from the ignitions switch under the dash / column and
jumper
> the battery live to the run wire. The electrical portion is held on
to
> the back of the ignition switch with two screws. You can remove it,
> carefully bend the housing tabs and pry it apart, being equally
careful
> not to lose the spring and ball bearing. The copper ring gets gummed
up
> over time, I cleaned mine up re-greased and no further issues.
>
> Alternatively for the electrically challenged Larry Finch always had
a
> good stock of the electrical portions.
>
> Julian
> __________________________________________________________________
>
> From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[2]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on
behalf of
> Pantdino via DeTomaso <[3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 2:29 PM
> To: [4]detomaso at detomasolist.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
>
> My car had no symptoms of this previously, but today when I went to
> start it it would only run as long as the key was in the "engage
> starter motor" position. As soon as I released the key back to the
Run
> position it would stop
> After several episodes of that, it did start and I backed it out of
the
> garage, but then it died and refused to start again.
> There is no power to the gauges or warning lights in the Run
position.
> I had similar symptoms with my Alfa once, and it was a bad ignition
> switch.
> Anything else it could be? I am not very good with wiring diagrams,
so
> I thought I'd turn to everyone's extensive knowledge before
struggling
> with it.
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
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>
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>
> Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
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list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
or approve the archiving of list messages.
References
1. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
2. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
3. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
4. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
5. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
6. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
|
|
-------------- next part --------------
That is exactly how a car would act that had a bad ballast resistor...
If you still have one on your car, check it.
[1]Sent from AT&T Mail on Android
__________________________________________________________________
From:"Pantdino via DeTomaso" <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Date:Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 9:42 PM
Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
Thanks guys!
Fortunately the car is dead over my low-rise lift, so that should
help
getting my old body into the correct contortions to get under the
dash.
:)
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Drew <[2]MikeLDrew at aol.com>
To: Julian Kift <[3]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
Cc: detomaso <[4]detomaso at detomasolist.com>; Pantdino
<[5]pantdino at aol.com>
Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 4:19 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
Jim,
While I would agree that it's probably the switch, I would first
check
the junction block that connects the wires from the ignition switch
to
the rest of the harness. It's an incredibly hokey connector that can
overheat and melt, especially if high-current fans and headlights are
fitted. Dot be surprised if your switch is fine but this connector is
sizzled.
To access it you have to drop the steering column. Follow Bill
Taylor's
advice--remove the two short bolts closest to the front of the car
and
replace them with much longer bolts, just threaded in a few turns.
Then
remove the rear bolts and allow the column to hang from the long
bolts.
This affords good access without stressing the wiring and connectors
and let's you get the plastic housing off from around the ignition
switch.
If necessary it's very easy to replace the electrical portion of the
ignition switch. The plastic housings around the switch are held in
with the two bolts you removed, one Phillips screw and one machine
screw. Be sure to pay attention which one goes where and remember
that
it's possible to short things out if you use a too-long screw....
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 4, 2017, at 17:35, Julian Kift
<[1][6]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> I think you hit it, ignition switch, to test locate the terminal
block
> about 6 " from the ignitions switch under the dash / column and
jumper
> the battery live to the run wire. The electrical portion is held on
to
> the back of the ignition switch with two screws. You can remove it,
> carefully bend the housing tabs and pry it apart, being equally
careful
> not to lose the spring and ball bearing. The copper ring gets
gummed
up
> over time, I cleaned mine up re-greased and no further issues.
>
> Alternatively for the electrically challenged Larry Finch always
had
a
> good stock of the electrical portions.
>
> Julian
> __________________________________________________________________
>
> From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[2][7]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on
behalf of
> Pantdino via DeTomaso <[3][8]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 2:29 PM
> To: [4][9]detomaso at detomasolist.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
>
> My car had no symptoms of this previously, but today when I went to
> start it it would only run as long as the key was in the "engage
> starter motor" position. As soon as I released the key back to the
Run
> position it would stop
> After several episodes of that, it did start and I backed it out of
the
> garage, but then it died and refused to start again.
> There is no power to the gauges or warning lights in the Run
position.
> I had similar symptoms with my Alfa once, and it was a bad ignition
> switch.
> Anything else it could be? I am not very good with wiring diagrams,
so
> I thought I'd turn to everyone's extensive knowledge before
struggling
> with it.
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
> DeTomaso mailing list
> [5][10]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> [6][11]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>
> To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe,
etc.)
use the links above.
>
> Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of
the
list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an
archive
or approve the archiving of list messages.
References
1. mailto:[12]julian_kift at hotmail.com
2. mailto:[13]bounces at server.detomasolist.com
3. mailto:[14]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
4. mailto:[15]detomaso at detomasolist.com
5. mailto:[16]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
6. [17]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
References
1. https://att.overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android
2. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
3. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
4. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
5. mailto:pantdino at aol.com
6. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
7. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
8. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
9. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
10. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
11. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
12. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
13. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
14. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
15. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
16. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
17. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
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