[DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?

[Pantdino]

Thanks guys!


Fortunately the car is dead over my low-rise lift, so that should help getting my old body into the correct contortions to get under the dash. :)



Jim



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
To: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at detomasolist.com>; Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 4:19 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?

Jim,

While I would agree that it's probably the switch, I would first check the junction block that connects the wires from the ignition switch to the rest of the harness. It's an incredibly hokey connector that can overheat and melt, especially if high-current fans and headlights are fitted. Dot be surprised if your switch is fine but this connector is sizzled. 

To access it you have to drop the steering column. Follow Bill Taylor's advice--remove the two short bolts closest to the front of the car and replace them with much longer bolts, just threaded in a few turns. Then remove the rear bolts and allow the column to hang from the long bolts. This affords good access without stressing the wiring and connectors and let's you get the plastic housing off from around the ignition switch. 

If necessary it's very easy to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch. The plastic housings around the switch are held in with the two bolts you removed, one Phillips screw and one machine screw. Be sure to pay attention which one goes where and remember that it's possible to short things out if you use a too-long screw....

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 4, 2017, at 17:35, Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
>   I think you hit it, ignition switch, to test locate the terminal block
>   about 6 " from the ignitions switch under the dash / column and jumper
>   the battery live to the run wire. The electrical portion is held on to
>   the back of the ignition switch with two screws. You can remove it,
>   carefully bend the housing tabs and pry it apart, being equally careful
>   not to lose the spring and ball bearing. The copper ring gets gummed up
>   over time, I cleaned mine up re-greased and no further issues.
> 
>   Alternatively for the electrically challenged Larry Finch always had a
>   good stock of the electrical portions.
> 
>   Julian
>     __________________________________________________________________
> 
>   From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of
>   Pantdino via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
>   Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 2:29 PM
>   To: detomaso at detomasolist.com
>   Subject: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
> 
>   My car had no symptoms of this previously, but today when I went to
>   start it it would only run as long as the key was in the "engage
>   starter motor" position. As soon as I released the key back to the Run
>   position it would stop
>   After several episodes of that, it did start and I backed it out of the
>   garage, but then it died and refused to start again.
>   There is no power to the gauges or warning lights in the Run position.
>   I had similar symptoms with my Alfa once, and it was a bad ignition
>   switch.
>   Anything else it could be?  I am not very good with wiring diagrams, so
>   I thought I'd turn to everyone's extensive knowledge before struggling
>   with it.
>   Thanks,
>   Jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
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-------------- next part --------------
   Thanks guys!

   Fortunately the car is dead over my low-rise lift, so that should help
   getting my old body into the correct contortions to get under the dash.
   :)
   Jim
   -----Original Message-----
   From: Mike Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
   To: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
   Cc: detomaso <detomaso at detomasolist.com>; Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
   Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 4:19 pm
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
   Jim,
   While I would agree that it's probably the switch, I would first check
   the junction block that connects the wires from the ignition switch to
   the rest of the harness. It's an incredibly hokey connector that can
   overheat and melt, especially if high-current fans and headlights are
   fitted. Dot be surprised if your switch is fine but this connector is
   sizzled.
   To access it you have to drop the steering column. Follow Bill Taylor's
   advice--remove the two short bolts closest to the front of the car and
   replace them with much longer bolts, just threaded in a few turns. Then
   remove the rear bolts and allow the column to hang from the long bolts.
   This affords good access without stressing the wiring and connectors
   and let's you get the plastic housing off from around the ignition
   switch.
   If necessary it's very easy to replace the electrical portion of the
   ignition switch. The plastic housings around the switch are held in
   with the two bolts you removed, one Phillips screw and one machine
   screw. Be sure to pay attention which one goes where and remember that
   it's possible to short things out if you use a too-long screw....
   Mike
   Sent from my iPhone
   > On Sep 4, 2017, at 17:35, Julian Kift <[1]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
   wrote:
   >
   > I think you hit it, ignition switch, to test locate the terminal
   block
   > about 6 " from the ignitions switch under the dash / column and
   jumper
   > the battery live to the run wire. The electrical portion is held on
   to
   > the back of the ignition switch with two screws. You can remove it,
   > carefully bend the housing tabs and pry it apart, being equally
   careful
   > not to lose the spring and ball bearing. The copper ring gets gummed
   up
   > over time, I cleaned mine up re-greased and no further issues.
   >
   > Alternatively for the electrically challenged Larry Finch always had
   a
   > good stock of the electrical portions.
   >
   > Julian
   > __________________________________________________________________
   >
   > From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[2]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on
   behalf of
   > Pantdino via DeTomaso <[3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
   > Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 2:29 PM
   > To: [4]detomaso at detomasolist.com
   > Subject: [DeTomaso] Run position of ignition switch kaputt?
   >
   > My car had no symptoms of this previously, but today when I went to
   > start it it would only run as long as the key was in the "engage
   > starter motor" position. As soon as I released the key back to the
   Run
   > position it would stop
   > After several episodes of that, it did start and I backed it out of
   the
   > garage, but then it died and refused to start again.
   > There is no power to the gauges or warning lights in the Run
   position.
   > I had similar symptoms with my Alfa once, and it was a bad ignition
   > switch.
   > Anything else it could be? I am not very good with wiring diagrams,
   so
   > I thought I'd turn to everyone's extensive knowledge before
   struggling
   > with it.
   > Thanks,
   > Jim
   > _______________________________________________
   >
   >
   > Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
   > Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
   > DeTomaso mailing list
   > [5]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   > [6]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
   >
   > To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
   use the links above.
   >
   > Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
   any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
   or approve the archiving of list messages.

References

   1. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
   2. mailto:bounces at server.detomasolist.com
   3. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   4. mailto:detomaso at detomasolist.com
   5. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   6. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso