[DeTomaso] NPC (sort of) TIG Welder Recommendations
j g
notstock at yahoo.com
Tue Oct 31 16:45:04 EDT 2017
Cory, I have done a lot of fabrication and lots of large aluminum pieces that make up stuff like built up engine blocks , fixing broken blocks and heads , Uprights for race cars etc:One of the most useful tool additions is an electric hot plate and or an old electric range. Before you start on big pieces it is always better to preheat them for welding and keep some additional heat during the welding process. By bringing the aluminum part up to temperature before welding you can actually get better welds with almost any machine , I have done 1/4 and 1/2 inch thick plate to castings by this method, with only AC 150 amps available , you may need to get some non flammable high temperature blanket material to place over the part to help keep the heat in the part in the area not being welded because aluminum conducts heat away from the weld zone into the air so fast that it takes lots of BTU's to keep a large part hot allover. Next is that the old range can also be used to bring back the strength after welding , this is done by placing the finished welded part in the oven at 400-450f for 4 to 6 hours on 6061 t6 that has been welded, as welded it is only a T4 or lower so solution hardening works on aluminum all the way down into the 256 f with longer times. Electric heating is safer and does not introduce combustion products into the weld zone or aluminum because of the highly concentrated flame areas. however a torch with several rosebud tips can help get a big part hot quicker then use the electric to keep the temperature up; just be wary that the flame should be kept moving so the part does not get damaged.
jg
From: Jack DeRyke via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: coreyjprice at gmail.com; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2017 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] NPC (sort of) TIG Welder Recommendations
Cory, due to aluminum's excellent heat radiation, it takes a LOT of
amperage to weld aluminum or mag, especially big chunks like heads and
blocks. I learned on a 300 Miller and own a Lincoln 300/300 TIG/Arc,
and I seldom go over 100 amps with stainless or mild steel (straight
polarity). But with aluminum (reverse polarity), I often use 300 amps
for good penetration- on heads or trannys for instance. I also use
straight argon but if you're rich, straight helium will increase a
machine's capability with a given amperage. My mentor once told me,
'You can learn to TIG-weld aluminum in 15 minutes. To get good at it
will take a lifetime'. He was right. I've been at this for 35 yrs and
I'm still only a metal-melter, not a pro welder.
TIG welding is like riding a motorcycle: you need both hands and at
least one foot to simultaneously control everything so coordination is
important. Besides the TIG machine and a torch, you'll also need a gas
flow meter, a foot pedal amp controller, a big gas bottle for argon or
helium and a regulated water supply & drain if you decide to use a
water-cooled torch. Air cooled TIG-torches throw off a LOT of heat- I
have both and seldom use the air cooled one- too clumsy and you'll find
yourself using thick welder's gloves with the air cooled version. Which
makes handling the big air-torch even more clumsy.
You'll also need a package of tungsten electrodes in various sizes & a
grinder to sharpen them and remove 'oopsies', as accidently touching
the tungsten electrode with an aluminum feeder rod while running a bead
will instantly coat the exposed electrode with aluminum. This stops the
welding process. It also sometimes shocks you if you're welding
barehanded. Its a lot like gas welding steel except melting aluminum
doesn't change color- it turns into a vapor. One last caution: TIG-ing
in shirt sleeves for more than about 5 minutes will sunburn any exposed
skin- your neck, under your arms etc due to the intense UV from the
torch. Good luck and as in most things, practice a lot!
J DeRyke
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[1]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf
of
Corey Price <[2]coreyjprice at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 2:53 PM
To: Detomaso
Subject: [DeTomaso] NPC (sort of) TIG Welder Recommendations
I'm looking for a decent TIG welder, around 200 amps, AC/DC, preferably
with pulse capabilities. Does anyone have a strong recommendation? I'll
just be using this at home for the Pantera and other things and not be
doing this for a living. I've been learning to TIG weld at a local
applied
tech college as part of their community outreach. I'm leaning toward a
Lincoln Squarewave 200, but also watching the local online classifieds.
Corey
P.S. I almost got the instructor to help us learn to weld magnesium
(thinking of Campi wheels) but the magnesium filler rod is really
expensive
and out of his budget...
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-------------- next part --------------
Cory,
I have done a lot of fabrication and lots of large aluminum pieces
that make up stuff like built up engine blocks , fixing broken blocks
and heads , Uprights for race cars etc:
One of the most useful tool additions is an electric hot plate and or
an old electric range. Before you start on big pieces it is always
better to preheat them for welding and keep some additional heat during
the welding process. By bringing the aluminum part up to temperature
before welding you can actually get better welds with almost any
machine , I have done 1/4 and 1/2 inch thick plate to castings by this
method, with only AC 150 amps available , you may need to get some non
flammable high temperature blanket material to place over the part to
help keep the heat in the part in the area not being welded because
aluminum conducts heat away from the weld zone into the air so fast
that it takes lots of BTU's to keep a large part hot allover. Next is
that the old range can also be used to bring back the strength after
welding , this is done by placing the finished welded part in the oven
at 400-450f for 4 to 6 hours on 6061 t6 that has been welded, as
welded it is only a T4 or lower so solution hardening works on
aluminum all the way down into the 256 f with longer times. Electric
heating is safer and does not introduce combustion products into the
weld zone or aluminum because of the highly concentrated flame areas.
however a torch with several rosebud tips can help get a big part hot
quicker then use the electric to keep the temperature up; just be wary
that the flame should be kept moving so the part does not get damaged.
jg
__________________________________________________________________
From: Jack DeRyke via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
To: coreyjprice at gmail.com; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2017 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] NPC (sort of) TIG Welder Recommendations
Cory, due to aluminum's excellent heat radiation, it takes a LOT of
amperage to weld aluminum or mag, especially big chunks like heads
and
blocks. I learned on a 300 Miller and own a Lincoln 300/300 TIG/Arc,
and I seldom go over 100 amps with stainless or mild steel (straight
polarity). But with aluminum (reverse polarity), I often use 300 amps
for good penetration- on heads or trannys for instance. I also use
straight argon but if you're rich, straight helium will increase a
machine's capability with a given amperage. My mentor once told me,
'You can learn to TIG-weld aluminum in 15 minutes. To get good at it
will take a lifetime'. He was right. I've been at this for 35 yrs and
I'm still only a metal-melter, not a pro welder.
TIG welding is like riding a motorcycle: you need both hands and at
least one foot to simultaneously control everything so coordination
is
important. Besides the TIG machine and a torch, you'll also need a
gas
flow meter, a foot pedal amp controller, a big gas bottle for argon
or
helium and a regulated water supply & drain if you decide to use a
water-cooled torch. Air cooled TIG-torches throw off a LOT of heat- I
have both and seldom use the air cooled one- too clumsy and you'll
find
yourself using thick welder's gloves with the air cooled version.
Which
makes handling the big air-torch even more clumsy.
You'll also need a package of tungsten electrodes in various sizes &
a
grinder to sharpen them and remove 'oopsies', as accidently touching
the tungsten electrode with an aluminum feeder rod while running a
bead
will instantly coat the exposed electrode with aluminum. This stops
the
welding process. It also sometimes shocks you if you're welding
barehanded. Its a lot like gas welding steel except melting aluminum
doesn't change color- it turns into a vapor. One last caution:
TIG-ing
in shirt sleeves for more than about 5 minutes will sunburn any
exposed
skin- your neck, under your arms etc due to the intense UV from the
torch. Good luck and as in most things, practice a lot!
J DeRyke
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[1][1]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on
behalf
of
Corey Price <[2][2]coreyjprice at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 2:53 PM
To: Detomaso
Subject: [DeTomaso] NPC (sort of) TIG Welder Recommendations
I'm looking for a decent TIG welder, around 200 amps, AC/DC,
preferably
with pulse capabilities. Does anyone have a strong recommendation?
I'll
just be using this at home for the Pantera and other things and not
be
doing this for a living. I've been learning to TIG weld at a local
applied
tech college as part of their community outreach. I'm leaning toward
a
Lincoln Squarewave 200, but also watching the local online
classifieds.
Corey
P.S. I almost got the instructor to help us learn to weld magnesium
(thinking of Campi wheels) but the magnesium filler rod is really
expensive
and out of his budget...
_______________________________________________
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