[DeTomaso] NPC (sort of) TIG Welder Recommendations
jderyke at aol.com
jderyke at aol.com
Tue Oct 31 16:14:59 EDT 2017
Cory, due to aluminum's excellent heat radiation, it takes a LOT of amperage to weld aluminum or mag, especially big chunks like heads and blocks. I learned on a 300 Miller and own a Lincoln 300/300 TIG/Arc, and I seldom go over 100 amps with stainless or mild steel (straight polarity). But with aluminum (reverse polarity), I often use 300 amps for good penetration- on heads or trannys for instance. I also use straight argon but if you're rich, straight helium will increase a machine's capability with a given amperage. My mentor once told me, 'You can learn to TIG-weld aluminum in 15 minutes. To get good at it will take a lifetime'. He was right. I've been at this for 35 yrs and I'm still only a metal-melter, not a pro welder.
TIG welding is like riding a motorcycle: you need both hands and at least one foot to simultaneously control everything so coordination is important. Besides the TIG machine and a torch, you'll also need a gas flow meter, a foot pedal amp controller, a big gas bottle for argon or helium and a regulated water supply & drain if you decide to use a water-cooled torch. Air cooled TIG-torches throw off a LOT of heat- I have both and seldom use the air cooled one- too clumsy and you'll find yourself using thick welder's gloves with the air cooled version. Which makes handling the big air-torch even more clumsy.
You'll also need a package of tungsten electrodes in various sizes & a grinder to sharpen them and remove 'oopsies', as accidently touching the tungsten electrode with an aluminum feeder rod while running a bead will instantly coat the exposed electrode with aluminum. This stops the welding process. It also sometimes shocks you if you're welding barehanded. Its a lot like gas welding steel except melting aluminum doesn't change color- it turns into a vapor. One last caution: TIG-ing in shirt sleeves for more than about 5 minutes will sunburn any exposed skin- your neck, under your arms etc due to the intense UV from the torch. Good luck and as in most things, practice a lot!
J DeRyke
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of
Corey Price <coreyjprice at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 2:53 PM
To: Detomaso
Subject: [DeTomaso] NPC (sort of) TIG Welder Recommendations
I'm looking for a decent TIG welder, around 200 amps, AC/DC, preferably
with pulse capabilities. Does anyone have a strong recommendation? I'll
just be using this at home for the Pantera and other things and not be
doing this for a living. I've been learning to TIG weld at a local
applied
tech college as part of their community outreach. I'm leaning toward a
Lincoln Squarewave 200, but also watching the local online classifieds.
Corey
P.S. I almost got the instructor to help us learn to weld magnesium
(thinking of Campi wheels) but the magnesium filler rod is really
expensive
and out of his budget...
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-------------- next part --------------
Cory, due to aluminum's excellent heat radiation, it takes a LOT of
amperage to weld aluminum or mag, especially big chunks like heads and
blocks. I learned on a 300 Miller and own a Lincoln 300/300 TIG/Arc,
and I seldom go over 100 amps with stainless or mild steel (straight
polarity). But with aluminum (reverse polarity), I often use 300 amps
for good penetration- on heads or trannys for instance. I also use
straight argon but if you're rich, straight helium will increase a
machine's capability with a given amperage. My mentor once told me,
'You can learn to TIG-weld aluminum in 15 minutes. To get good at it
will take a lifetime'. He was right. I've been at this for 35 yrs and
I'm still only a metal-melter, not a pro welder.
TIG welding is like riding a motorcycle: you need both hands and at
least one foot to simultaneously control everything so coordination is
important. Besides the TIG machine and a torch, you'll also need a gas
flow meter, a foot pedal amp controller, a big gas bottle for argon or
helium and a regulated water supply & drain if you decide to use a
water-cooled torch. Air cooled TIG-torches throw off a LOT of heat- I
have both and seldom use the air cooled one- too clumsy and you'll find
yourself using thick welder's gloves with the air cooled version. Which
makes handling the big air-torch even more clumsy.
You'll also need a package of tungsten electrodes in various sizes & a
grinder to sharpen them and remove 'oopsies', as accidently touching
the tungsten electrode with an aluminum feeder rod while running a bead
will instantly coat the exposed electrode with aluminum. This stops the
welding process. It also sometimes shocks you if you're welding
barehanded. Its a lot like gas welding steel except melting aluminum
doesn't change color- it turns into a vapor. One last caution: TIG-ing
in shirt sleeves for more than about 5 minutes will sunburn any exposed
skin- your neck, under your arms etc due to the intense UV from the
torch. Good luck and as in most things, practice a lot!
J DeRyke
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-[1]bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf
of
Corey Price <[2]coreyjprice at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 2:53 PM
To: Detomaso
Subject: [DeTomaso] NPC (sort of) TIG Welder Recommendations
I'm looking for a decent TIG welder, around 200 amps, AC/DC, preferably
with pulse capabilities. Does anyone have a strong recommendation? I'll
just be using this at home for the Pantera and other things and not be
doing this for a living. I've been learning to TIG weld at a local
applied
tech college as part of their community outreach. I'm leaning toward a
Lincoln Squarewave 200, but also watching the local online classifieds.
Corey
P.S. I almost got the instructor to help us learn to weld magnesium
(thinking of Campi wheels) but the magnesium filler rod is really
expensive
and out of his budget...
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