[DeTomaso] Engine gaskets

Mon Oct 2 16:09:02 EDT 2017

Tricks I have used with gaskets over the years.

I try to glue the gasket to the part that gets removed so that you can get
the alignment perfect. Next time you remove the part hopefully the gasket
will come off with the part making it EZer to replace.

I have also used dental floss to tie the gasket through each bolt hole to
hold it in place. People think better of you seeing the floss around the
shop too.

Larry (but what do I know) - Cleveland

-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf
Of Jack DeRyke via DeTomaso
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2017 3:40 AM
To: tipo874 at gmail.com; MikeLDrew at aol.com
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine gaskets

Most 351-C rear main seals can be r & r-ed with the engine & ZF in place.
First the pan must come off, then the rear main cap. Half the seal will be
in the cap and can be popped out immediately. Slacking off the #4, #3 and #2
main cap bolts a turn or two will allow the crank to sag down a little even
with the ZF in place. If it doesn't sag enough, reach up and pull down on
it. The upper seal-half in the block can then be progressively tapped out
using a curved plastic or wood pusher-stick so you don't scar up the rear
crank journal. Once its out a ways, careful pulling with pliers will remove
it. Oil up a new seal-half and tap it back in place, leaving one end out
about 1/8" or so with the other seal-half mirror-imaged in the cap. This is
so you can add a dab of silicone on the seal ends. And don't forget to
torque all those loose main cap bolts. Can't remember if your car has a
Cleveland or a Windsor, but the job is the same with either engine.

But unless you are really lucky or skillful, your biggest problem will be
the pan seals. With the engine in place in a Pantera, its darn near
impossible to get the pan gaskets & pan seals to index properly, get a dab
of silicone on each of the 4 ends and wrestle the pan in place and have
everything stay there while you get a couple of bolts started. So you wind
up with pan leaks maybe worse than what you had to start with. That's why
most guys pull the engine and ZF, clean everything up and reassemble while
not having oil dripping in your face.

Before signing up for all this, simply try re-torquing the pan bolts. Its
surprising how many leaks come from pan gaskets simply shrinking from heat
or age, or getting over-compressed, leading to loose pan bolts, then leaks.
USE A TORQUE WRENCH- one in inch-pounds is best. The little pan bolts are
absurdly easy to snap off when tightening by eye. Don't ask how I found this
out.... A broken pan bolt can be removed with the engine & pan still in
place but it takes specialized equipment, patience and skill- which I also
found. Far better to not overtighten & snap one (or more) off.
Good luck, Charlie- J DeRyke

-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Törnblom <tipo874 at gmail.com>
To: Mike Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Sent: Sat, Sep 30, 2017 12:06 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine gaskets

You need to remove the rear main cap to get half of the seal out, but then
you still have the other half to worry about. Not sure if you can slide that
out with the crank in place.

Thomas

> 30 sep. 2017 kl. 20:43 skrev Mike Drew via DeTomaso
<detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>:
>
> Charlie,
>
> Many are smarter than I in this department (line forms to the left). But
I'm pretty certain you can replace the rear main seal with the engine in
place. Gotta pull the gearbox, clutch and flywheel, and drop the oil pan
down a few inches, and then you can get to it.
>
> Others back me up or tell me I'm FOS please! :)
>
> If that's your only problem, fix your only problem. :)
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Sep 30, 2017, at 13:09, Charles McCall <charlesmccall at gmail.com>
wrote:
>>
>> Hi all
>>
>> For several years now, my Pantera has gone "marking its territory" by
>> leaving engine oil where it goes. It doesn't leak a LOT, but it does
>> leak. Roland Jaeckel thinks it is coming from the rear main seal, but
>> the only real way to be sure is to pull the engine and open things up.
>>
>>
>> If I'm going to pull the engine, I'm thinking of replacing all the
>> gaskets except the head gasket and valve cover gaskets (those are
>> relatively new and get checked regularly). The gaskets were installed
>> in 2000, and I've done quite a few miles since then. Is a gasket a
>> gasket, or are there manufacturers to avoid? I'd like to do this only
>> once...
>>
>> Something like this?
>>
>> [1]https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Overhaul-Gasket-1970-1982-Ford/dp/B01N
>> 0HDAB5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506794131&sr=8-1&keywords=engine+gasket+
>> 351C
>>
>>
>> Has some things I won't need... any other suggestions?
>>
>>
>> Thanks all
>>
>> References
>>
>> 1.
https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Overhaul-Gasket-1970-1982-Ford/dp/B01N0HDAB5/r
ef=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506794131&sr=8-1&keywords=engine+gasket+351C
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