[DeTomaso] Can door and trunk locks be re-keyed, anyone successful with the ignition without removing the lock from the housing??
Larry Finch
fresnofinches at aol.com
Mon Mar 13 12:32:31 EDT 2017
Julian,
There is nothing harder in rekeying the trunk lock barrel internals, the difficulty is getting that barrel out of its housing. Just another tedious step, not a roadblock.
The key code for these locks is a four digit number; some owners may still have that number stamped on an original key. I have found some of the lock barrels have such a four digit code stenciled onto them but that is not always the case.
My locksmith has access to a subscription-only website that will decipher those four numbers to the proper key-cutting pattern for the six pins. That website is the only method I have discovered to decipher the key cutting pattern from those four numbers. That website information also reveals the cutting depth for the three available pin sizes.
Alternatively, he can cut a proper key by being provided with the layout of the six lock barrel pins. This of course requires disassembly of the lock barrel. If I tell him the internal pin arrangement is 1-2-2-3-1-3 he can cut a key reflecting the cut depth for each pin, thereby bypassing the need for the original four digit code.
I have attached a photo of the key codes on the base of a lock barrel and a new old stock key.
Larry
Sent from me using a magic, handheld electronic gizmo.
> On Mar 13, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Larry,
>
>
> Thanks for the write up and research work on behalf of the community!
>
>
> If the trunk lock is the harder to rekey with availability of pins, then it would seem wise for anyone wishing to rekey the set to rekey both doors to match the trunk?
>
>
> Given that you have discovered there are only 3 unique pins in 6 slots, that's only 729 possible permutations for keys and in reality likely significantly less as certain combinations would not be used.
>
> When disassembling my '74 I came across what I assumed was a key card with a 3 digit number stuck up under the dash. If that is what the card was it implies there is a record of key pattern to pin combinations somewhere in the Ford archives....
>
> Julian
> From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of Larry Finch via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2017 11:55 PM
> To: Email List Address For Posting
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Can door and trunk locks be re-keyed, anyone successful with the ignition without removing the lock from the housing??
>
> Ken,
>
> I’ve removed several ignition locks from their housings. Drill the hole, depress the black spring steel piece, and barrel assembly can be removed. No downside to it in my experience. Replace/rebuild the lock barrel and then it simply snaps back into place in the housing. I do not believe the access hole can be drilled with the lock still installed on the column.
>
> As for rekeying the door/trunk locks, yes it can be done. Several years ago I had a trunk lock rekeyed by a local, old-timer locksmith. He had difficulty in getting access to the pins and springs - the cover plate is crimped into place and required some time and effort to figure out how to safely remove without ruining the whole shebang. Once opened, he told me he found the smallest lock springs he had ever seen. Despite Julian’s optimism, I highly doubt he could have sourced replacement pins or springs for the lock; luckily I had spare pins that allowed him to match that trunk lock barrel to a matched pair of door lock barrels. I sold the set to a member of this list.
>
> Since that rekeying, I have invested hours of research and bench time with a collection of Pantera door/trunk locks I have gathered over the years. The door lock barrels are fairly easy to remove once you have the door handles out of the door; the trunk lock barrel is retained in its housing by a blind-hole pin that requires some delicate Dremel drilling and subsequent prying to remove that pin. The door and trunk lock barrels use the same pins and springs, but the lock barrels are different for the two applications.
>
> While the lock barrels have six pin cuts, there are only three different lengths of pins that are mixed and matched to create the different key patterns.
>
> BTW, there are two styles of lock/trunk keys and thus two versions of barrels, but the barrel internals are the same for both styles.
>
> While I have yet to do a proof-of-concept, I am quite confident I can now re-pin any of the three lock barrels as required. Thanks to my locksmith’s assistance, he tracked down the info on what cut to make for each of the three pins, he should be able to cut fresh, new keys matched to whatever 6-pin combination I provide to him.
>
> I’ve included a couple of photos.
>
> One showing the minuscule spring. The other showing a door lock barrel, the crimped-in-place pins/springs cover and two pins.
>
> Anyone wanting to be my first guinea pig for re-keying their locks should contact me off list.
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
Julian,
There is nothing harder in rekeying the trunk lock barrel internals,
the difficulty is getting that barrel out of its housing. Just another
tedious step, not a roadblock.
The key code for these locks is a four digit number; some owners may
still have that number stamped on an original key. I have found some of
the lock barrels have such a four digit code stenciled onto them but
that is not always the case.
My locksmith has access to a subscription-only website that will
decipher those four numbers to the proper key-cutting pattern for the
six pins. That website is the only method I have discovered to decipher
the key cutting pattern from those four numbers. That website
information also reveals the cutting depth for the three available pin
sizes.
Alternatively, he can cut a proper key by being provided with the
layout of the six lock barrel pins. This of course requires disassembly
of the lock barrel. If I tell him the internal pin arrangement is
1-2-2-3-1-3 he can cut a key reflecting the cut depth for each pin,
thereby bypassing the need for the original four digit code.
I have attached a photo of the key codes on the base of a lock barrel
and a new old stock key.
Larry
image1.JPG
Sent from me using a magic, handheld electronic gizmo.
On Mar 13, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Julian Kift <[1]julian_kift at hotmail.com>
wrote:
Larry,
Thanks for the write up and research work on behalf of the community!
If the trunk lock is the harder to rekey with availability of pins,
then it would seem wise for anyone wishing to rekey the set to
rekey both doors to match the trunk?
Given that you have discovered there are only 3 unique pins in 6 slots,
that's only 729 possible permutations for keys and in reality likely
significantly less as certain combinations would not be used.
When disassembling my '74 I came across what I assumed was a key card
with a 3 digit number stuck up under the dash. If that is what the card
was it implies there is a record of key pattern to pin combinations
somewhere in the Ford archives....
Julian
__________________________________________________________________
From: DeTomaso <[2]detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf
of Larry Finch via DeTomaso <[3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2017 11:55 PM
To: Email List Address For Posting
Subject: [DeTomaso] Can door and trunk locks be re-keyed, anyone
successful with the ignition without removing the lock from the
housing??
Ken,
I've removed several ignition locks from their housings. Drill the
hole, depress the black spring steel piece, and barrel assembly can be
removed. No downside to it in my experience. Replace/rebuild the lock
barrel and then it simply snaps back into place in the housing. I do
not believe the access hole can be drilled with the lock still
installed on the column.
As for rekeying the door/trunk locks, yes it can be done. Several years
ago I had a trunk lock rekeyed by a local, old-timer locksmith. He had
difficulty in getting access to the pins and springs - the cover plate
is crimped into place and required some time and effort to figure out
how to safely remove without ruining the whole shebang. Once opened, he
told me he found the smallest lock springs he had ever seen. Despite
Julian's optimism, I highly doubt he could have sourced replacement
pins or springs for the lock; luckily I had spare pins that allowed him
to match that trunk lock barrel to a matched pair of door lock barrels.
I sold the set to a member of this list.
Since that rekeying, I have invested hours of research and bench time
with a collection of Pantera door/trunk locks I have gathered over the
years. The door lock barrels are fairly easy to remove once you have
the door handles out of the door; the trunk lock barrel is retained in
its housing by a blind-hole pin that requires some delicate Dremel
drilling and subsequent prying to remove that pin. The door and trunk
lock barrels use the same pins and springs, but the lock barrels are
different for the two applications.
While the lock barrels have six pin cuts, there are only three
different lengths of pins that are mixed and matched to create the
different key patterns.
BTW, there are two styles of lock/trunk keys and thus two versions of
barrels, but the barrel internals are the same for both styles.
While I have yet to do a proof-of-concept, I am quite confident I can
now re-pin any of the three lock barrels as required. Thanks to my
locksmith's assistance, he tracked down the info on what cut to make
for each of the three pins, he should be able to cut fresh, new keys
matched to whatever 6-pin combination I provide to him.
I've included a couple of photos.
One showing the minuscule spring. The other showing a door lock barrel,
the crimped-in-place pins/springs cover and two pins.
Anyone wanting to be my first guinea pig for re-keying their locks
should contact me off list.
Larry
References
1. mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com
2. mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com
3. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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