[DeTomaso] Not Starting-Check Battery

Wed Jul 26 14:22:16 EDT 2017

The bases for the drawings are courtesy of SOBill's wiring postings at Pantera Place.

-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Dave Londry
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 13:59 PM
To: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not Starting-Check Battery

Nice illustration. Did you just whip that up on the spot?
Dave

On 7/26/17 10:47 AM, Joseph F. Byrd, Jr. wrote:
> An in case someone is interested, an explanation of my circuit 
> coloring
>
> Top illustration
> Turn key to run
> Current (red) from battery, through amp meter, ignition switch, lamp/resistor, regulator and alternator field causes the lamp to glow.
> Small % of current going trhough regulator goes through the R1 battery sensing leg (light blue).  When sensed voltage is less than 13VDC, R1 is deenergived and its contact closed allowing most of current to flow to alternator field (dark blue).
> Current through the field converts it into a magnet
>
> Bottom illustraction
> With the  engine running, the alternator field (now a magnet) spins and cause the alternator stator to produce AC voltage, rectified to DC by the diodes and provides current to the car’s electrical (red).  A small % current goes through ampmeter to charge the battery.
> With the stator producing current, a small % of the stators current (green) goes to an output sensing circuit at its neutral energizes R2.
> R2’s now closed contact provides a secondary connection from the regulator to the battery.
> Most of the current to the regulator’s voltage sensing circuit (light 
> blue) and field amps (dark blue) is now through the secondary path and with nil current through the lamp it goes dim (out) When the sensed voltage exceeds 13VDC, the R1 energizes and removes the alternators field current and the stators current goes to nil.  The drop in alternator output casues the sense voltage to fluctuate and rapidly cycle R1 to provide field current (dark blue) when low and none when high.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Joseph F. Byrd, Jr.
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 11:20 AM
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not Starting-Check Battery
>
> Attached schematic
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On 
> Behalf Of jgkrenton at comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 10:39 AM
> To: Thomas Törnblom; David Jenkins
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not Starting-Check Battery
>
> Thomas, David et-al:
>
> The alternator indicator light on a stock wired Pantera is also part 
> of the "Voltage Sense" circuit that helps the alternator start when 
> the engine is started. If the bulb burns out the sense line doesn't 
> work and the alternator may or may not start depending on the 
> characteristics of that particular alternator. (You may have seen 
> alternators that wouldn't start until the engine was rev'd a bit. Some 
> won't start at all without a sense line connected.)
>
> The DeTomaso factory included a big ceramic resistor (something like 10 ohms or something, I need to check the schematic) across the light bulb. This resistor is there to ensure the alternator gets a strong start signal and will still start if the bulb fails. Of course if the wire breaks, there is still an issue.
>
> I suspect many of these resistors have disappeared over the years. If you are having problems with an alternator that doesn't want to start charging, you might want to ensure the resistor is installed and functioning.
>
> FYI
>
> Jeff 2467
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Thomas Törnblom" <tipo874 at gmail.com>
> To: "David Jenkins" <djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com>
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2017 12:04:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not Starting-Check Battery
>
> It can also be the bulb, or the wire from the bulb to the alternator/regulator. The wire broke for me in flight in Germany many years ago and as long as the alternator was spinning it was ok. The morning after it would not start charging. After crimping on a new connector it was ok again.
>
> Thomas
>
>> 24 juli 2017 kl. 15:44 skrev David Jenkins <djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com>:
>>
>> [cid:image001.gif at 01D3045F.FE026390]
>>
>>
>> Most of the Pantera owners on this site probably know this but I am 
>> only modestly mechanically inclined. I went to start and instead had 
>> a loud clicking noise. My first thought was a bad starter relay but I 
>> had enough sense to check the battery which tested at 11.4V. The 
>> parts store manager told me the battery usually needs to be fully 
>> charged for the relay to engaged. Turns out he was right. I charged 
>> the battery and it started fine. Since my generator light was not 
>> coming on I now assume I need a new voltage regulator.
>>
>>
>>
>> DJ
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