[DeTomaso] Cabin heat question

Fri Feb 24 19:22:43 EST 2017

There are several methods of fixing this but the simplest is to contact your favorite Pantera parts vendor and buy a reproduction valve that bolts in. There are two varieties- one uses a bent rod, the second uses a more elaborate brass valve that has a flat steel arm rotating in a cam-slot to raise and lower the rod. Blocking off the heater hoses entirely often causes the water/antifreeze/byproducts trapped inside to turn into a kind of green goo that must be flushed from the heater core; the green color is copper corrosion from the core. Shops can pressure-check to see if your present core is even useable. Good luck- J Deryke

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kosloskey <jim.kosloskey at jim-kosloskey.com>
To: 'Jeff Detrich' <jjdetrich at gmail.com>; '03Drew' <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>; fred <fred at creekspeak.com>
Sent: Wed, Feb 22, 2017 8:51 am
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question

I am sorry to hi-jack this chain but I am currently having my Pantera restored. The original heater valve is very stiff and potentially unusable. The restorer wants to cap the heater hoses kind of indicating the valve may not be stable. 

Is there a replacement valve available - either original equipment type or aftermarket equivalent.

I am the original owner and this has not been on the road for nearly 30 years. It is a 1974 L and I never had any of the typical issues with the vehicle. I drove it every day in the Summer to work and around town. Just before I parked it the heater valve became difficult to operate.

Thank you in advance,

Jim Kosloskey

-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Detrich
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 9:27 AM
To: 03Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; fred at creekspeak.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question

On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso < detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:

> Anyway. The stock valve is a plunger affair, as opposed to a rotary,
> ball-style valve. Moving the lever moves a plunger in and out which
> varies the amount of water that flows through the heater core (and in
> theory, blocks it completely when it is fully shut).
>

I also thought the valve piece that allowed the fluid to pass had to be installed in the right position (90, 180, 270, or 360 degrees within the
pipe) to work properly? You'd have to try it in any of those positions to see which one works.

> Actually, if one is making
> the effort, it makes sense to kill two birds with one stone and also
> install a layer of Dynamat or similar vibration-absorbing mat. While
> this won't do an awful lot for heat (it does supposedly do something),
> it will dampen vibration and reduce perceived noise in the cabin.
>

There are three types of heat transfer that need to be accounted for.
Conduction
Convection
Radiation

The foil on dynamat is an effective way to reduce *radiation* heat transfer if it is placed in the engine compartment so the foil faces the engine and other sources of heat.

Jeff

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-------------- next part --------------
   There are several methods of fixing this but the simplest is to contact
   your favorite Pantera parts vendor and buy a reproduction valve that
   bolts in. There are two varieties- one uses a bent rod, the second uses
   a more elaborate brass valve that has a flat steel arm rotating in a
   cam-slot to raise and lower the rod. Blocking off the heater hoses
   entirely often causes the water/antifreeze/byproducts trapped inside to
   turn into a kind of green goo that must be flushed from the heater
   core; the green color is copper corrosion from the core. Shops can
   pressure-check to see if your present core is even useable. Good luck-
   J Deryke
   -----Original Message-----
   From: Jim Kosloskey <jim.kosloskey at jim-kosloskey.com>
   To: 'Jeff Detrich' <jjdetrich at gmail.com>; '03Drew' <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
   Cc: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>; fred
   <fred at creekspeak.com>
   Sent: Wed, Feb 22, 2017 8:51 am
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
   I am sorry to hi-jack this chain but I am currently having my Pantera
   restored. The original heater valve is very stiff and potentially
   unusable. The restorer wants to cap the heater hoses kind of indicating
   the valve may not be stable.
   Is there a replacement valve available - either original equipment type
   or aftermarket equivalent.
   I am the original owner and this has not been on the road for nearly 30
   years. It is a 1974 L and I never had any of the typical issues with
   the vehicle. I drove it every day in the Summer to work and around
   town. Just before I parked it the heater valve became difficult to
   operate.
   Thank you in advance,
   Jim Kosloskey
   -----Original Message-----
   From: DeTomaso [[1]mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On
   Behalf Of Jeff Detrich
   Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 9:27 AM
   To: 03Drew <[2]MikeLDrew at aol.com>
   Cc: [3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; [4]fred at creekspeak.com
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
   On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso <
   [5]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
   > Anyway. The stock valve is a plunger affair, as opposed to a rotary,
   > ball-style valve. Moving the lever moves a plunger in and out which
   > varies the amount of water that flows through the heater core (and in
   > theory, blocks it completely when it is fully shut).
   >
   I also thought the valve piece that allowed the fluid to pass had to be
   installed in the right position (90, 180, 270, or 360 degrees within
   the
   pipe) to work properly? You'd have to try it in any of those positions
   to see which one works.
   > Actually, if one is making
   > the effort, it makes sense to kill two birds with one stone and also
   > install a layer of Dynamat or similar vibration-absorbing mat. While
   > this won't do an awful lot for heat (it does supposedly do
   something),
   > it will dampen vibration and reduce perceived noise in the cabin.
   >
   There are three types of heat transfer that need to be accounted for.
   Conduction
   Convection
   Radiation
   The foil on dynamat is an effective way to reduce *radiation* heat
   transfer if it is placed in the engine compartment so the foil faces
   the engine and other sources of heat.
   Jeff
   _______________________________________________
   Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
   Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
   DeTomaso mailing list
   [6]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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   To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
   use the links above.
   Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any
   message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
   or approve the archiving of list messages.

References

   1. mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com?
   2. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
   3. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   4. mailto:fred at creekspeak.com
   5. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   6. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   7. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso