[DeTomaso] Cabin heat question

[Larry Stock]

There are actually more than 1 style and more than one way to send an
exchange or core in for rebuild. I should still have some on the shelf
that Julian rebuilt for us while he was in between his real jobs. Good
help is hard to find, and he was easy to train, better than most including
me.
Larry

On 2/22/17, 9:34 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of Mike Drew via DeTomaso"
<detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:

>Great minds think alike!
>
>Sold on an exchange basis so that your old valve can one day serve
>someone else!
>
>Mike
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Feb 22, 2017, at 9:19, Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>   Yes, rebuilt valves are available, I know Larry Stock at Pantera Parts
>>   Connection in Carson City has a number in stock ready to go as I
>>   rebuilt them for him!
>> 
>>   Julian
>>     __________________________________________________________________
>> 
>>   From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of
>>   Jim Kosloskey <jim.kosloskey at jim-kosloskey.com>
>>   Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 8:51 AM
>>   To: 'Jeff Detrich'; '03Drew'
>>   Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; fred at creekspeak.com
>>   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
>> 
>>   I am sorry to hi-jack this chain but I am currently having my Pantera
>>   restored. The original heater valve is very stiff and potentially
>>   unusable. The restorer wants to cap the heater hoses kind of
>>indicating
>>   the valve may not be stable.
>>   Is there a replacement valve available - either original equipment
>>type
>>   or aftermarket equivalent.
>>   I am the original owner and this has not been on the road for nearly
>>30
>>   years. It is a 1974 L and I never had any of the typical issues with
>>   the vehicle. I drove it every day in the Summer to work and around
>>   town. Just before I parked it the heater valve became difficult to
>>   operate.
>>   Thank you in advance,
>>   Jim Kosloskey
>>   -----Original Message-----
>>   From: DeTomaso [[1]mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On
>>   Behalf Of Jeff Detrich
>>   Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 9:27 AM
>>   To: 03Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
>>   Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; fred at creekspeak.com
>>   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
>>   On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso <
>>   detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
>>> Anyway.  The stock valve is a plunger affair, as opposed to a rotary,
>>>   ball-style valve.  Moving the lever moves a plunger in and out
>>   which
>>>   varies the amount of water that flows through the heater core (and
>>   in
>>>   theory, blocks it completely when it is fully shut).
>>   I also thought the valve piece that allowed the fluid to pass had to
>>be
>>   installed in the right position (90, 180, 270, or 360 degrees within
>>   the
>>   pipe) to work properly? You'd have to try it in any of those positions
>>   to see which one works.
>>> Actually, if one is making
>>>   the effort, it makes sense to kill two birds with one stone and
>>   also
>>>   install a layer of Dynamat or similar vibration-absorbing mat.
>>   While
>>>   this won't do an awful lot for heat (it does supposedly do
>>   something),
>>>   it will dampen vibration and reduce perceived noise in the cabin.
>>   There are three types of heat transfer that need to be accounted for.
>>      Conduction
>>      Convection
>>      Radiation
>>   The foil on dynamat is an effective way to reduce *radiation* heat
>>   transfer if it is placed in the engine compartment so the foil faces
>>   the engine and other sources of heat.
>>   Jeff
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>> References
>> 
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>>   2. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
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>> 
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