[DeTomaso] Cabin heat question

Mike Drew MikeLDrew at aol.com
Wed Feb 22 12:32:57 EST 2017


Jim,

I would talk with Larry Stock about rebuilding your heater valve. 

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 22, 2017, at 8:51, "Jim Kosloskey" <jim.kosloskey at jim-kosloskey.com> wrote:

> I am sorry to hi-jack this chain but I am currently having my Pantera restored. The original heater valve is very stiff and potentially unusable. The restorer wants to cap the heater hoses kind of indicating the valve may not be stable. 
> 
> Is there a replacement valve available - either original equipment type or aftermarket equivalent.
> 
> I am the original owner and this has not been on the road for nearly 30 years. It is a 1974 L and I never had any of the typical issues with the vehicle. I drove it every day in the Summer to work and around town. Just before I parked it the heater valve became difficult to operate.
> 
> Thank you in advance,
> 
> Jim Kosloskey
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Detrich
> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 9:27 AM
> To: 03Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; fred at creekspeak.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
> 
> On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso < detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
> 
>> Anyway.  The stock valve is a plunger affair, as opposed to a rotary,
>>   ball-style valve.  Moving the lever moves a plunger in and out which
>>   varies the amount of water that flows through the heater core (and in
>>   theory, blocks it completely when it is fully shut).
> 
> I also thought the valve piece that allowed the fluid to pass had to be installed in the right position (90, 180, 270, or 360 degrees within the
> pipe) to work properly? You'd have to try it in any of those positions to see which one works.
> 
> 
> 
>> Actually, if one is making
>>   the effort, it makes sense to kill two birds with one stone and also
>>   install a layer of Dynamat or similar vibration-absorbing mat.  While
>>   this won't do an awful lot for heat (it does supposedly do something),
>>   it will dampen vibration and reduce perceived noise in the cabin.
> 
> There are three types of heat transfer that need to be accounted for.
>   Conduction
>   Convection
>   Radiation
> 
> The foil on dynamat is an effective way to reduce *radiation* heat transfer if it is placed in the engine compartment so the foil faces the engine and other sources of heat.
> 
> Jeff
> 


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