[DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
Julian Kift
julian_kift at hotmail.com
Wed Feb 22 12:19:37 EST 2017
Yes, rebuilt valves are available, I know Larry Stock at Pantera Parts Connection in Carson City has a number in stock ready to go as I rebuilt them for him!
Julian
________________________________
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of Jim Kosloskey <jim.kosloskey at jim-kosloskey.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 8:51 AM
To: 'Jeff Detrich'; '03Drew'
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; fred at creekspeak.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
I am sorry to hi-jack this chain but I am currently having my Pantera restored. The original heater valve is very stiff and potentially unusable. The restorer wants to cap the heater hoses kind of indicating the valve may not be stable.
Is there a replacement valve available - either original equipment type or aftermarket equivalent.
I am the original owner and this has not been on the road for nearly 30 years. It is a 1974 L and I never had any of the typical issues with the vehicle. I drove it every day in the Summer to work and around town. Just before I parked it the heater valve became difficult to operate.
Thank you in advance,
Jim Kosloskey
-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Detrich
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 9:27 AM
To: 03Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; fred at creekspeak.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso < detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
> Anyway. The stock valve is a plunger affair, as opposed to a rotary,
> ball-style valve. Moving the lever moves a plunger in and out which
> varies the amount of water that flows through the heater core (and in
> theory, blocks it completely when it is fully shut).
>
I also thought the valve piece that allowed the fluid to pass had to be installed in the right position (90, 180, 270, or 360 degrees within the
pipe) to work properly? You'd have to try it in any of those positions to see which one works.
> Actually, if one is making
> the effort, it makes sense to kill two birds with one stone and also
> install a layer of Dynamat or similar vibration-absorbing mat. While
> this won't do an awful lot for heat (it does supposedly do something),
> it will dampen vibration and reduce perceived noise in the cabin.
>
There are three types of heat transfer that need to be accounted for.
Conduction
Convection
Radiation
The foil on dynamat is an effective way to reduce *radiation* heat transfer if it is placed in the engine compartment so the foil faces the engine and other sources of heat.
Jeff
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-------------- next part --------------
Yes, rebuilt valves are available, I know Larry Stock at Pantera Parts
Connection in Carson City has a number in stock ready to go as I
rebuilt them for him!
Julian
__________________________________________________________________
From: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of
Jim Kosloskey <jim.kosloskey at jim-kosloskey.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 8:51 AM
To: 'Jeff Detrich'; '03Drew'
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; fred at creekspeak.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
I am sorry to hi-jack this chain but I am currently having my Pantera
restored. The original heater valve is very stiff and potentially
unusable. The restorer wants to cap the heater hoses kind of indicating
the valve may not be stable.
Is there a replacement valve available - either original equipment type
or aftermarket equivalent.
I am the original owner and this has not been on the road for nearly 30
years. It is a 1974 L and I never had any of the typical issues with
the vehicle. I drove it every day in the Summer to work and around
town. Just before I parked it the heater valve became difficult to
operate.
Thank you in advance,
Jim Kosloskey
-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [[1]mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On
Behalf Of Jeff Detrich
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 9:27 AM
To: 03Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com; fred at creekspeak.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cabin heat question
On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso <
detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
> Anyway. The stock valve is a plunger affair, as opposed to a rotary,
> ball-style valve. Moving the lever moves a plunger in and out
which
> varies the amount of water that flows through the heater core (and
in
> theory, blocks it completely when it is fully shut).
>
I also thought the valve piece that allowed the fluid to pass had to be
installed in the right position (90, 180, 270, or 360 degrees within
the
pipe) to work properly? You'd have to try it in any of those positions
to see which one works.
> Actually, if one is making
> the effort, it makes sense to kill two birds with one stone and
also
> install a layer of Dynamat or similar vibration-absorbing mat.
While
> this won't do an awful lot for heat (it does supposedly do
something),
> it will dampen vibration and reduce perceived noise in the cabin.
>
There are three types of heat transfer that need to be accounted for.
Conduction
Convection
Radiation
The foil on dynamat is an effective way to reduce *radiation* heat
transfer if it is placed in the engine compartment so the foil faces
the engine and other sources of heat.
Jeff
_______________________________________________
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list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
or approve the archiving of list messages.
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