[DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles

[B Hower]

I did the same thing for 3400.
 Bud #3400 ( Drive it like there is no tomorrow -- for there may not be ! )

      From: Stephen <steve at snclocks.com>
 To: MikeLDrew at aol.com; bill at incendium.com; audionut at hushmail.com; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com 
 Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 10:30 PM
 Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles
   
  Good point Mike - one of the previous times I had the panels off I cut
  some small pieces of wood so that the upper screws can be tightened and
  the shell held in place by the pieces of wood.  Helps to get the top of
  the panel to lay better.


  Stephen Nelson



  From: MikeLDrew at aol.com [mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com]
  Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 3:31 PM
  To: bill at incendium.com; steve at snclocks.com; audionut at hushmail.com;
  detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
  Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles


  One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans.
  The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a
  bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of
  the panel.  They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have
  worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been
  changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of
  the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you
  will) of the fiberglass panel.
  What does this mean?  It means that when you install the panel, if you
  tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the
  bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low.  If you tighten the
  bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top
  and the bottom.
  The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the
  bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way.  This lifts the
  panel as high as it can go.  Work your way around to the top, and when
  you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch
  above the metal structure below it.  That's why you need longer screws
  there.  Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just
  snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel.
  This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are
  inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel
  to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end
  of the screw scratches the inside of the glass!
  DOH!
  Mike

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-------------- next part --------------
   I did the same thing for 3400.

   Bud #3400 ( Drive it like there is no tomorrow -- for there may not be
   ! )
     __________________________________________________________________

   From: Stephen <steve at snclocks.com>
   To: MikeLDrew at aol.com; bill at incendium.com; audionut at hushmail.com;
   detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 10:30 PM
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles
     Good point Mike - one of the previous times I had the panels off I
   cut
     some small pieces of wood so that the upper screws can be tightened
   and
     the shell held in place by the pieces of wood.  Helps to get the top
   of
     the panel to lay better.
     Stephen Nelson
     From: [1]MikeLDrew at aol.com [mailto:[2]MikeLDrew at aol.com]
     Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 3:31 PM
     To: [3]bill at incendium.com; [4]steve at snclocks.com;
   [5]audionut at hushmail.com;
     [6]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
     Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles
     One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans.
     The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with
   a
     bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge
   of
     the panel.  They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have
     worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been
     changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of
     the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you
     will) of the fiberglass panel.
     What does this mean?  It means that when you install the panel, if
   you
     tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the
     bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low.  If you tighten the
     bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the
   top
     and the bottom.
     The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the
     bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way.  This lifts the
     panel as high as it can go.  Work your way around to the top, and
   when
     you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch
     above the metal structure below it.  That's why you need longer
   screws
     there.  Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just
     snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel.
     This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are
     inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost
   parallel
     to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end
     of the screw scratches the inside of the glass!
     DOH!
     Mike
   _______________________________________________
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   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
   or approve the archiving of list messages.

References

   1. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
   2. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
   3. mailto:bill at incendium.com
   4. mailto:steve at snclocks.com
   5. mailto:audionut at hushmail.com
   6. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   7. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   8. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso