[DeTomaso] Engine help needed - I've got gas! (or my car does....)
Asa Jay Laughton
asajay at asajay.com
Sat Nov 12 16:21:47 EST 2016
Revving the engine to 3,000 or more would probably help, but not
guarantee you a pass. You'd need to hold it there for five or 10
seconds. You've probably passed before because the wait wasn't too
long.
Asa
Asa Jay Laughton - W7TSC, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA
******************************
[1]http://w7tsc.org
[2]http://www.teampanteraracing.com
On 11/12/2016 12:44 PM, Charles McCall wrote:
OK, thanks. It's very helpful to understand the theory - now I have a
problem in applying it. I have a nice, 20 minute highway drive to the
testing station, but the only way to reach the sniffer is to get in
line and wait.
Yesterday was very frustrating - typically the wait is 10-15 minutes,
and I don't know what happened yesterday but the wait was horrible. I
knew that a cold engine was a problem so I kept the engine running.
It's cold here in November, and 45 minutes with the engine shut off
would mean a fairly cold block.
I wonder which is worse - shutting the engine off (cold engine but
without all the carbon/etc) or letting it idle (warm engine but carbon)
The wait isn't something I can control. Would just revving the heck out
of the engine before entering the test bay help blow the cobwebs out?
From: Asa Jay Laughton [[3]mailto:asajay at asajay.com]
Sent: sabado, 12 de noviembre de 2016 20:53
To: Charles McCall
Cc: [4]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine help needed - I've got gas! (or my car
does....)
No Charlie, you misunderstand...
An engine IDLED for 45 minutes is nearly guaranteed to FAIL. It will
be so loaded with carbon it can't possibly pass, no matter how "warmed
up it is."
You need to be DRIVING it for 45 minutes and immediately test it. It
needs to be taken through the gears, engine rpms taken high,..... Blow
out the cobwebs, the carbon build-up, etc. Then test. If you idle for
any length of time waiting in line... rinse and repeat. Do NOT spend
time idling in line, it will kill your test.
Asa
Sent using Jedi Mind Tricks
Charles McCall <[5]charlesmccall at gmail.com> wrote:
Thank you to all who answered.
I understand that a warm engine will contaminate less. The car was
literally
idling for 45 minutes before testing, albeit in 45F ambient
temperatures, so
I think it was properly warmed up. Due to the lines and waiting, it
would be
difficult to come off the highway and roll right into a test bay, but I
can
let it idle for as long as I'd like before entering the bay. The lines
tend
to be pretty long where I go anyway...
I understand that higher rpms will reduce contamination, and therefore
we
should all drive faster to save the planet! I'll raise the rpm a little
for
the test.
I'm reluctant to fiddle with leaning out the idle or playing with the
timing
- neither have been touched since previous years so I have to believe
that
the current settings can work.
I'm also cautiously optimistic that the air filter is really, really
clogged. I've spent a weekend camping at Le Mans Classic in the dust,
driven
down a 2,5 km dirt road a bunch of times in Denmark, etc etc. Tomorrow
it's
supposed to be nice so I'll drive around the block with the air cleaner
removed and see if I notice any difference. If it's clogged enough to
make
me fail emissions, maybe I'll notice something with the
seat-of-the-pants-o-meter.
Thanks again!
-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [[6]mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On
Behalf
Of Asa Jay Laughton
Sent: sabado, 12 de noviembre de 2016 17:47
To: [7]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine help needed - I've got gas! (or my car
does....)
Also, make sure the engine is good and hot (not overheating). Take it
for a good long spirited drive and then immediately have the emissions
tested. If the line is too long... come back again later. You get
better test results when it's been running good and hot for a while.
Asa
Asa Jay Laughton - W7TSC, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA
******************************
[8]http://w7tsc.org
[9]http://www.teampanteraracing.com
On 11/12/2016 3:04 AM, Will Kooiman wrote:
> You mean CO and not CO2, right?
>
> My understanding is to reduce CO and increase Nox, you lean the carb
-
> which should also reduce CO2, since it is a byproduct of burning
gasoline.
>
> If nothing has changed on your car, perhaps your carburetor just
needs a
> good cleaning.
>
> The hardest part is knowing if your changes helped without taking it
back
> for testing. It would help if you could take it somewhere and tune
it to
> pass.
>
> On 11/12/16, 5:30 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of Charles McCall"
> <[10]detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
> [11]charlesmccall at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all
>>
>> Went for my annual safety/technical inspection yesterday and
failed
due
>> to two points:
>>
>> 1) My car door handle is damaged as mentioned on the list a few
weeks
>> ago... a replacement is coming for Christmas, but you need to be
able
>> to open the door from outside and inside to pass inspection.
>>
>> 2) Most worrying is that my CO2 levels were excessively high. The
limit
>> hasn't been changed compared to former years, this is the same
engine
>> that has had its emissions tested for the past 15 years and
nothing
>> that I am aware of has changed. Two questions:
>>
>> 1) What can I change/check to lower my CO2 levels to pass the
test?
>> Will begin by cleaning the air filter - to be honest I don't
remember
>> when I last cleaned it, which tells me something. It's a K&N. I
seem
to
>> remember that CO2 levels lower at higher rpms and are highest at
idle?
>> If this is the case then I'll raise the rpms at idle to pass the
test.
>> Any other tricks to temporarily reduce CO2 emissions? I'll be
happy to
>> share my trick for passing the emergency brake portion, which
I've
>> pretty much got down pat now due to practice, but not on a public
forum
>> J
>>
>> 2) Perhaps more importantly, what is this telling me about my
engine?
>> Is it sick? Is there something that isn't working properly?
>>
>>
>> Don't know if it matters but the engine has Aussie closed chamber
>> heads, a Compcams 282S solid lifter camshaft, MSD 6AL, a massaged
>> Holley 650DP. Don't think I left out anything that could be
relevant
>> here.
>>
>>
>> I have 20 days to "fix it" and bring it back for re-testing.
Thanks
>> all!
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References
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3. mailto:asajay at asajay.com
4. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
5. mailto:charlesmccall at gmail.com
6. mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com
7. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
8. http://w7tsc.org/
9. http://www.teampanteraracing.com/
10. mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com%20on%20behalf%20of%0b
11. mailto:charlesmccall at gmail.com
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