[DeTomaso] Engine help needed - I've got gas! (or my car does....)
Asa Jay Laughton
asajay at asajay.com
Sat Nov 12 14:52:48 EST 2016
No Charlie, you misunderstand...
An engine IDLED for 45 minutes is nearly guaranteed to FAIL. It will be so loaded with carbon it can't possibly pass, no matter how "warmed up it is."
You need to be DRIVING it for 45 minutes and immediately test it. It needs to be taken through the gears, engine rpms taken high,..... Blow out the cobwebs, the carbon build-up, etc. Then test. If you idle for any length of time waiting in line... rinse and repeat. Do NOT spend time idling in line, it will kill your test.
Asa
Sent using Jedi Mind Tricks
Charles McCall <charlesmccall at gmail.com> wrote:
>Thank you to all who answered.
>
>I understand that a warm engine will contaminate less. The car was literally
>idling for 45 minutes before testing, albeit in 45F ambient temperatures, so
>I think it was properly warmed up. Due to the lines and waiting, it would be
>difficult to come off the highway and roll right into a test bay, but I can
>let it idle for as long as I'd like before entering the bay. The lines tend
>to be pretty long where I go anyway...
>
>I understand that higher rpms will reduce contamination, and therefore we
>should all drive faster to save the planet! I'll raise the rpm a little for
>the test.
>
>I'm reluctant to fiddle with leaning out the idle or playing with the timing
>- neither have been touched since previous years so I have to believe that
>the current settings can work.
>
>I'm also cautiously optimistic that the air filter is really, really
>clogged. I've spent a weekend camping at Le Mans Classic in the dust, driven
>down a 2,5 km dirt road a bunch of times in Denmark, etc etc. Tomorrow it's
>supposed to be nice so I'll drive around the block with the air cleaner
>removed and see if I notice any difference. If it's clogged enough to make
>me fail emissions, maybe I'll notice something with the
>seat-of-the-pants-o-meter.
>
>Thanks again!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf
>Of Asa Jay Laughton
>Sent: sábado, 12 de noviembre de 2016 17:47
>To: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine help needed - I've got gas! (or my car
>does....)
>
>Also, make sure the engine is good and hot (not overheating). Take it
>for a good long spirited drive and then immediately have the emissions
>tested. If the line is too long... come back again later. You get
>better test results when it's been running good and hot for a while.
>
>Asa
>
>Asa Jay Laughton - W7TSC, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
>& Shelley Marie
>Spokane, WA
>******************************
>http://w7tsc.org
>http://www.teampanteraracing.com
>
>
>On 11/12/2016 3:04 AM, Will Kooiman wrote:
>> You mean CO and not CO2, right?
>>
>> My understanding is to reduce CO and increase Nox, you lean the carb -
>> which should also reduce CO2, since it is a byproduct of burning gasoline.
>>
>> If nothing has changed on your car, perhaps your carburetor just needs a
>> good cleaning.
>>
>> The hardest part is knowing if your changes helped without taking it back
>> for testing. It would help if you could take it somewhere and tune it to
>> pass.
>>
>> On 11/12/16, 5:30 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of Charles McCall"
>> <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
>> charlesmccall at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all
>>>
>>> Went for my annual safety/technical inspection yesterday and failed
>due
>>> to two points:
>>>
>>> 1) My car door handle is damaged as mentioned on the list a few weeks
>>> ago... a replacement is coming for Christmas, but you need to be able
>>> to open the door from outside and inside to pass inspection.
>>>
>>> 2) Most worrying is that my CO2 levels were excessively high. The
>limit
>>> hasn't been changed compared to former years, this is the same engine
>>> that has had its emissions tested for the past 15 years and nothing
>>> that I am aware of has changed. Two questions:
>>>
>>> 1) What can I change/check to lower my CO2 levels to pass the test?
>>> Will begin by cleaning the air filter - to be honest I don't remember
>>> when I last cleaned it, which tells me something. It's a K&N. I seem
>to
>>> remember that CO2 levels lower at higher rpms and are highest at idle?
>>> If this is the case then I'll raise the rpms at idle to pass the test.
>>> Any other tricks to temporarily reduce CO2 emissions? I'll be happy to
>>> share my trick for passing the emergency brake portion, which I've
>>> pretty much got down pat now due to practice, but not on a public
>forum
>>> J
>>>
>>> 2) Perhaps more importantly, what is this telling me about my engine?
>>> Is it sick? Is there something that isn't working properly?
>>>
>>>
>>> Don't know if it matters but the engine has Aussie closed chamber
>>> heads, a Compcams 282S solid lifter camshaft, MSD 6AL, a massaged
>>> Holley 650DP. Don't think I left out anything that could be relevant
>>> here.
>>>
>>>
>>> I have 20 days to "fix it" and bring it back for re-testing. Thanks
>>> all!
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
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>>> message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list.
>>> They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or
>>> approve the archiving of list messages.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
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>>
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>They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve
>the archiving of list messages.
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2016.0.7859 / Virus Database: 4664/13396 - Release Date: 11/12/16
>>
>>
>_______________________________________________
>
>
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>
>
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-------------- next part --------------
No Charlie, you misunderstand...
An engine IDLED for 45 minutes is nearly guaranteed to FAIL. It will
be so loaded with carbon it can't possibly pass, no matter how "warmed
up it is."
You need to be DRIVING it for 45 minutes and immediately test it. It
needs to be taken through the gears, engine rpms taken high,..... Blow
out the cobwebs, the carbon build-up, etc. Then test. If you idle for
any length of time waiting in line... rinse and repeat. Do NOT spend
time idling in line, it will kill your test.
Asa
Sent using Jedi Mind Tricks
Charles McCall <charlesmccall at gmail.com> wrote:
Thank you to all who answered.
I understand that a warm engine will contaminate less. The car was
literally
idling for 45 minutes before testing, albeit in 45F ambient
temperatures, so
I think it was properly warmed up. Due to the lines and waiting, it
would be
difficult to come off the highway and roll right into a test bay, but I
can
let it idle for as long as I'd like before entering the bay. The lines
tend
to be pretty long where I go anyway...
I understand that higher rpms will reduce contamination, and therefore
we
should all drive faster to save the planet! I'll raise the rpm a little
for
the test.
I'm reluctant to fiddle with leaning out the idle or playing with the
timing
- neither have been touched since previous years so I have to believe
that
the current settings can work.
I'm also cautiously optimistic that the air filter is really, really
clogged. I've spent a weekend camping at Le Mans Classic in the dust,
driven
down a 2,5 km dirt road a bunch of times in Denmark, etc etc. Tomorrow
it's
supposed to be nice so I'll drive around the block with the air cleaner
removed and see if I notice any difference. If it's clogged enough to
make
me fail emissions, maybe I'll notice something with the
seat-of-the-pants-o-meter.
Thanks again!
-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On
Behalf
Of Asa Jay Laughton
Sent: sA!bado, 12 de noviembre de 2016 17:47
To: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine help needed - I've got gas! (or my car
does....)
Also, make sure the engine is good and hot (not overheating). Take it
for a good long spirited drive and then immediately have the emissions
tested. If the line is too long... come back again later. You get
better test results when it's been running good and hot for a while.
Asa
Asa Jay Laughton - W7TSC, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA
******************************
http://w7tsc.org
http://www.teampanteraracing.com
On 11/12/2016 3:04 AM, Will Kooiman wrote:
> You mean CO and not CO2, right?
>
> My understanding is to reduce CO and increase Nox, you lean the carb
-
> which should also reduce CO2, since it is a byproduct of burning
gasoline.
>
> If nothing has changed on your car, perhaps your carburetor just
needs a
> good cleaning.
>
> The hardest part is knowing if your changes helped without taking it
back
> for testing. It would help if you could take it somewhere and tune
it to
> pass.
>
> On 11/12/16, 5:30 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of Charles McCall"
> <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
> charlesmccall at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all
>>
>> Went for my annual safety/technical inspection yesterday and
failed
due
>> to two points:
>>
>> 1) My car door handle is damaged as mentioned on the list a few
weeks
>> ago... a replacement is coming for Christmas, but you need to be
able
>> to open the door from outside and inside to pass inspection.
>>
>> 2) Most worrying is that my CO2 levels were excessively high. The
limit
>> hasn't been changed compared to former years, this is the same
engine
>> that has had its emissions tested for the past 15 years and
nothing
>> that I am aware of has changed. Two questions:
>>
>> 1) What can I change/check to lower my CO2 levels to pass the
test?
>> Will begin by cleaning the air filter - to be honest I don't
remember
>> when I last cleaned it, which tells me something. It's a K&N. I
seem
to
>> remember that CO2 levels lower at higher rpms and are highest at
idle?
>> If this is the case then I'll raise the rpms at idle to pass the
test.
>> Any other tricks to temporarily reduce CO2 emissions? I'll be
happy to
>> share my trick for passing the emergency brake portion, which
I've
>> pretty much got down pat now due to practice, but not on a public
forum
>> J
>>
>> 2) Perhaps more importantly, what is this telling me about my
engine?
>> Is it sick? Is there something that isn't working properly?
>>
>>
>> Don't know if it matters but the engine has Aussie closed chamber
>> heads, a Compcams 282S solid lifter camshaft, MSD 6AL, a massaged
>> Holley 650DP. Don't think I left out anything that could be
relevant
>> here.
>>
>>
>> I have 20 days to "fix it" and bring it back for re-testing.
Thanks
>> all!
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
>> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
>> DeTomaso mailing list
>> DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>> http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>
>> To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe,
etc.) use
>> the links above.
>>
>> Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
any
>> message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
list.
>> They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or
>> approve the archiving of list messages.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
> DeTomaso mailing list
> DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>
> To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
use
the links above.
>
> Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward
any
message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
list.
They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or
approve
the archiving of list messages.
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2016.0.7859 / Virus Database: 4664/13396 - Release Date:
11/12/16
>
>
_______________________________________________
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