[DeTomaso] Front lid strut video
Mikael
mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk
Sat Mar 26 11:49:00 EDT 2016
Michael, first I’ll paste what I put on PI Forum, that will cover most. It was also in PCNC mag:
So, have you ever like me worried that the front lid might due to wind blow up and then down as the rod fell out and then maybe damage the paint? And have you like me never thrown out anything DeTomaso, not even rear deck lid gas shocks that had gotten too weak?
If yes, here’s an easy modification to support the opening of the front lid. Use one of the weak rear lid gas shocks in the front! I don’t know if this modification has been done before, but I haven’t seen it.
It fits perfectly on the lower part of the lid and bolted to the underside of the front trunk area. The two bolts in the trunk area will be invisible when I put my fire extinguisher back in the floppy bracket/holder, if you don’t have that, just have the bolts beneath the carpeting. The weak part right now is the bracket on the lid. There’s not enough material to drill and cut threads, so right now it’s only attached with screws. If they start to come loose, I’ll have to weld the bracket in place, very careful with just one weld at each end and wet rags on both sides of the lid to avoid paint being damaged by heat.
It took me an hour to install after some hours online finding the right brackets and bushings. It works perfectly, better than I had expected. The lid can stay up if on the last 10 inches upwards. Beneath that, it slowly closes, no banging down. Just like the rear lid actually.
Remember that the placement of the bracket on the underside of the trunk decides how high the lid opens. Mine opens exactly like when using the rod.
Which strut, remember it’s an old one that had gotten too weak for rear lid, see attached pictures. The bracket are from a Danish small-trailer producer, the important thing is that the strut must be able to swing its arc. Also note I’ve kept the rod. If in a storm the rod can just be squeezed into its hole, then that lid will stay open forever… Also also note that my radiater is not in original position, that made the geometry a lot easier.
J
Mvh/Regards
Mikael
Fra: Michael Shortt [mailto:michaelsavga at gmail.com]
Sendt: 26. marts 2016 16:40
Til: Mikael
Cc: detomaso at poca.com
Emne: Re: [DeTomaso] Front lid strut video
Outstanding modification.
Now you must spill your guts.
The strut's original application, model number, source.
Bracket source
Measurements.
Great job
Michael Shortt
On Mar 26, 2016 11:28 AM, "Mikael" <mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk> wrote:
First time I had the Pantera out in the sun since installation, so I
did this little video. Note that at the end I let go of the lid, so it
closes by itself.
[1]https://youtu.be/YivbUKJUt7E
Mikael
References
1. https://youtu.be/YivbUKJUt7E
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Michael, first I'll paste what I put on PI Forum, that will cover most.
It was also in PCNC mag:
So, have you ever like me worried that the front lid might due to wind
blow up and then down as the rod fell out and then maybe damage the
paint? And have you like me never thrown out anything DeTomaso, not
even rear deck lid gas shocks that had gotten too weak?
If yes, here's an easy modification to support the opening of the front
lid. Use one of the weak rear lid gas shocks in the front! I don't know
if this modification has been done before, but I haven't seen it.
It fits perfectly on the lower part of the lid and bolted to the
underside of the front trunk area. The two bolts in the trunk area will
be invisible when I put my fire extinguisher back in the floppy
bracket/holder, if you don't have that, just have the bolts beneath the
carpeting. The weak part right now is the bracket on the lid. There's
not enough material to drill and cut threads, so right now it's only
attached with screws. If they start to come loose, I'll have to weld
the bracket in place, very careful with just one weld at each end and
wet rags on both sides of the lid to avoid paint being damaged by heat.
It took me an hour to install after some hours online finding the right
brackets and bushings. It works perfectly, better than I had expected.
The lid can stay up if on the last 10 inches upwards. Beneath that, it
slowly closes, no banging down. Just like the rear lid actually.
Remember that the placement of the bracket on the underside of the
trunk decides how high the lid opens. Mine opens exactly like when
using the rod.
Which strut, remember it's an old one that had gotten too weak for rear
lid, see attached pictures. The bracket are from a Danish small-trailer
producer, the important thing is that the strut must be able to swing
its arc. Also note I've kept the rod. If in a storm the rod can just be
squeezed into its hole, then that lid will stay open forever... Also
also note that my radiater is not in original position, that made the
geometry a lot easier.
J
Mvh/Regards
Mikael
Fra: Michael Shortt [mailto:michaelsavga at gmail.com]
Sendt: 26. marts 2016 16:40
Til: Mikael
Cc: detomaso at poca.com
Emne: Re: [DeTomaso] Front lid strut video
Outstanding modification.
Now you must spill your guts.
The strut's original application, model number, source.
Bracket source
Measurements.
Great job
Michael Shortt
On Mar 26, 2016 11:28 AM, "Mikael" <[1]mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk> wrote:
First time I had the Pantera out in the sun since installation, so I
did this little video. Note that at the end I let go of the lid, so
it
closes by itself.
[1][2]https://youtu.be/YivbUKJUt7E
Mikael
References
1. [3]https://youtu.be/YivbUKJUt7E
_______________________________________________
Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
DeTomaso mailing list
[4]DeTomaso at poca.com
[5]http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
use the links above.
References
1. mailto:mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk
2. https://youtu.be/YivbUKJUt7E
3. https://youtu.be/YivbUKJUt7E
4. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
5. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
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