[DeTomaso] Cooling system

bill bill at incendium.com
Tue Jul 26 19:41:33 EDT 2016


Did you ever get the alternator problem sorted ? I drive my car much more than most, dare I say 90%, the PPC set up works great and I will stand by it.


CheersBill MooreCalgary
-------- Original message --------From: Mike Drew via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> Date: 2016-07-26  5:33 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: klckmac at msn.com, detomaso at server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cooling system 

In a message dated 7/26/16 8 41 31, klckmac at msn.com writes:


> Looking for advice on the newer aluminum radiators and stainless tube 
> sets offered out there. I just took my OLD Hall brass one in for repairs and 
> they want $650 for a re-do. I could get a new one for that price, but would 
> like to know who has upgraded to a turn key kit like PIM offers or other 
> dealer and if you would recommend any particular setup.
> 

Ken,

Lots of people are proposing a $1500 fix to a $200 problem.   For sure, 
that would work, but is it necessary?   No.

The first thing you need to do is find another radiator shop.   The quote 
they gave you is absurd.   Likely they are proposing an entirely new core for 
your existing tanks, which amounts to buying a whole new radiator.   If 
your core is well and truly shot, then yes, you might as well just get a new 
radiator, but in that case I would just buy another one like you have now.

By way of contrast to the megabucks suggestions, consider this:

A few years ago, Wilkinson gave Lori an old Hall radiator for free.   He 
had removed it from a customer's car when that guy 'upgraded' to a megabuck 
Fluidyne radiator and sucker fan setup.   Steve actually offered me the choice 
of several old radiators, and I took the best-looking one, knowing it 
needed work.

I brought it to a radiator shop out in the country a half-hour from my 
house.   They pressure-tested it and found several leaks, from failures in the 
brazing around the drain petcock caused by overtightening, and from the 
junction of the core and one of the end tanks.

They fixed all the leaks, pressure-tested it, painted it and gave it back 
to me, looking as good as new and guaranteed to work.

For this, they charged me FORTY dollars.   Not $650, not anything close.   
That radiator, with Hall Meriah fans, keeps her car running at a rock-solid 
180 degrees in all conditions, including extended periods of idling in Las 
Vegas traffic with ambient temps nearing 100 degrees, and has been doing so 
now for years.

Yes, you could spend a ton of money on an all-new setup.   But as long as 
your existing core is good (and why wouldn't it be?), you should be able to 
get minor leaks repaired easily for a fraction of the cost of buying a new 
Hall replacement radiator, never mind the megabuck setup.

One tremendous advantage of a brass radiator (any brass radiator) is that 
it can normally be repaired easily if it suffers damage when you're on the 
road.   The aluminum radiators are glued together and normally not easily 
repaired--if they can be repaired at all.   So while Hall recently failed to 
warranty their product per Chuck's testimony, at least their product is 
infinitely repairable.

A Mangusta owner from England who was driving to the south of France 
earlier this month wound up going home on a tow truck because his radiator sprung 
a leak and it dribbled much of his coolant overboard.   He failed to notice 
the water temp increase, but the subsequent oil temp increase and Expensive 
Noises from the engine got his attention!

Had he been paying attention and thought about the problem a little bit, he 
could have easily had the car repaired and saved his vacation, since 
apparently the engine is actually unhurt and was simply rattling a bit due to the 
lifters not lifting as much due to the hot, thin oil.   As it is, since he's 
not mechanically savvy he took the safe option and had the car towed back 
to England.   But if he had an aluminum radiator, likely that would have been 
his only recourse.

Just FWIW....

Mike
   In a message dated 7/26/16 8 41 31, klckmac at msn.com writes:

     Looking for advice on the newer aluminum radiators and stainless
     tube sets offered out there. I just took my OLD Hall brass one in
     for repairs and they want $650 for a re-do. I could get a new one
     for that price, but would like to know who has upgraded to a turn
     key kit like PIM offers or other dealer and if you would recommend
     any particular setup.

   Ken,
   Lots of people are proposing a $1500 fix to a $200 problem.  For sure,
   that would work, but is it necessary?  No.
   The first thing you need to do is find another radiator shop.  The
   quote they gave you is absurd.  Likely they are proposing an entirely
   new core for your existing tanks, which amounts to buying a whole new
   radiator.  If your core is well and truly shot, then yes, you might as
   well just get a new radiator, but in that case I would just buy another
   one like you have now.
   By way of contrast to the megabucks suggestions, consider this:
   A few years ago, Wilkinson gave Lori an old Hall radiator for free.  He
   had removed it from a customer's car when that guy 'upgraded' to a
   megabuck Fluidyne radiator and sucker fan setup.  Steve actually
   offered me the choice of several old radiators, and I took the
   best-looking one, knowing it needed work.
   I brought it to a radiator shop out in the country a half-hour from my
   house.  They pressure-tested it and found several leaks, from failures
   in the brazing around the drain petcock caused by overtightening, and
   from the junction of the core and one of the end tanks.
   They fixed all the leaks, pressure-tested it, painted it and gave it
   back to me, looking as good as new and guaranteed to work.
   For this, they charged me FORTY dollars.  Not $650, not anything
   close.  That radiator, with Hall Meriah fans, keeps her car running at
   a rock-solid 180 degrees in all conditions, including extended periods
   of idling in Las Vegas traffic with ambient temps nearing 100 degrees,
   and has been doing so now for years.
   Yes, you could spend a ton of money on an all-new setup.  But as long
   as your existing core is good (and why wouldn't it be?), you should be
   able to get minor leaks repaired easily for a fraction of the cost of
   buying a new Hall replacement radiator, never mind the megabuck setup.
   One tremendous advantage of a brass radiator (any brass radiator) is
   that it can normally be repaired easily if it suffers damage when
   you're on the road.  The aluminum radiators are glued together and
   normally not easily repaired--if they can be repaired at all.  So while
   Hall recently failed to warranty their product per Chuck's testimony,
   at least their product is infinitely repairable.
   A Mangusta owner from England who was driving to the south of France
   earlier this month wound up going home on a tow truck because his
   radiator sprung a leak and it dribbled much of his coolant overboard.
   He failed to notice the water temp increase, but the subsequent oil
   temp increase and Expensive Noises from the engine got his attention!
   Had he been paying attention and thought about the problem a little
   bit, he could have easily had the car repaired and saved his vacation,
   since apparently the engine is actually unhurt and was simply rattling
   a bit due to the lifters not lifting as much due to the hot, thin oil.
   As it is, since he's not mechanically savvy he took the safe option and
   had the car towed back to England.  But if he had an aluminum radiator,
   likely that would have been his only recourse.
   Just FWIW....
   Mike

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-------------- next part --------------
   Did you ever get the alternator problem sorted ? I drive my car much
   more than most, dare I say 90%, the PPC set up works great and I will
   stand by it.

   Cheers

   Bill Moore

   Calgary

   -------- Original message --------
   From: Mike Drew via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
   Date: 2016-07-26 5:33 PM (GMT-07:00)
   To: klckmac at msn.com, detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cooling system

   In a message dated 7/26/16 8 41 31, klckmac at msn.com writes:
   > Looking for advice on the newer aluminum radiators and stainless tube
   > sets offered out there. I just took my OLD Hall brass one in for
   repairs and
   > they want $650 for a re-do. I could get a new one for that price, but
   would
   > like to know who has upgraded to a turn key kit like PIM offers or
   other
   > dealer and if you would recommend any particular setup.
   >
   Ken,
   Lots of people are proposing a $1500 fix to a $200 problem.   For sure,
   that would work, but is it necessary?   No.
   The first thing you need to do is find another radiator shop.   The
   quote
   they gave you is absurd.   Likely they are proposing an entirely new
   core for
   your existing tanks, which amounts to buying a whole new radiator.   If
   your core is well and truly shot, then yes, you might as well just get
   a new
   radiator, but in that case I would just buy another one like you have
   now.
   By way of contrast to the megabucks suggestions, consider this:
   A few years ago, Wilkinson gave Lori an old Hall radiator for free.
   He
   had removed it from a customer's car when that guy 'upgraded' to a
   megabuck
   Fluidyne radiator and sucker fan setup.   Steve actually offered me the
   choice
   of several old radiators, and I took the best-looking one, knowing it
   needed work.
   I brought it to a radiator shop out in the country a half-hour from my
   house.   They pressure-tested it and found several leaks, from failures
   in the
   brazing around the drain petcock caused by overtightening, and from the
   junction of the core and one of the end tanks.
   They fixed all the leaks, pressure-tested it, painted it and gave it
   back
   to me, looking as good as new and guaranteed to work.
   For this, they charged me FORTY dollars.   Not $650, not anything
   close.
   That radiator, with Hall Meriah fans, keeps her car running at a
   rock-solid
   180 degrees in all conditions, including extended periods of idling in
   Las
   Vegas traffic with ambient temps nearing 100 degrees, and has been
   doing so
   now for years.
   Yes, you could spend a ton of money on an all-new setup.   But as long
   as
   your existing core is good (and why wouldn't it be?), you should be
   able to
   get minor leaks repaired easily for a fraction of the cost of buying a
   new
   Hall replacement radiator, never mind the megabuck setup.
   One tremendous advantage of a brass radiator (any brass radiator) is
   that
   it can normally be repaired easily if it suffers damage when you're on
   the
   road.   The aluminum radiators are glued together and normally not
   easily
   repaired--if they can be repaired at all.   So while Hall recently
   failed to
   warranty their product per Chuck's testimony, at least their product is
   infinitely repairable.
   A Mangusta owner from England who was driving to the south of France
   earlier this month wound up going home on a tow truck because his
   radiator sprung
   a leak and it dribbled much of his coolant overboard.   He failed to
   notice
   the water temp increase, but the subsequent oil temp increase and
   Expensive
   Noises from the engine got his attention!
   Had he been paying attention and thought about the problem a little
   bit, he
   could have easily had the car repaired and saved his vacation, since
   apparently the engine is actually unhurt and was simply rattling a bit
   due to the
   lifters not lifting as much due to the hot, thin oil.   As it is, since
   he's
   not mechanically savvy he took the safe option and had the car towed
   back
   to England.   But if he had an aluminum radiator, likely that would
   have been
   his only recourse.
   Just FWIW....
   Mike
      In a message dated 7/26/16 8 41 31, klckmac at msn.com writes:
        Looking for advice on the newer aluminum radiators and stainless
        tube sets offered out there. I just took my OLD Hall brass one in
        for repairs and they want $650 for a re-do. I could get a new one
        for that price, but would like to know who has upgraded to a turn
        key kit like PIM offers or other dealer and if you would recommend
        any particular setup.
      Ken,
      Lots of people are proposing a $1500 fix to a $200 problem.  For
   sure,
      that would work, but is it necessary?  No.
      The first thing you need to do is find another radiator shop.  The
      quote they gave you is absurd.  Likely they are proposing an
   entirely
      new core for your existing tanks, which amounts to buying a whole
   new
      radiator.  If your core is well and truly shot, then yes, you might
   as
      well just get a new radiator, but in that case I would just buy
   another
      one like you have now.
      By way of contrast to the megabucks suggestions, consider this:
      A few years ago, Wilkinson gave Lori an old Hall radiator for free.
   He
      had removed it from a customer's car when that guy 'upgraded' to a
      megabuck Fluidyne radiator and sucker fan setup.  Steve actually
      offered me the choice of several old radiators, and I took the
      best-looking one, knowing it needed work.
      I brought it to a radiator shop out in the country a half-hour from
   my
      house.  They pressure-tested it and found several leaks, from
   failures
      in the brazing around the drain petcock caused by overtightening,
   and
      from the junction of the core and one of the end tanks.
      They fixed all the leaks, pressure-tested it, painted it and gave it
      back to me, looking as good as new and guaranteed to work.
      For this, they charged me FORTY dollars.  Not $650, not anything
      close.  That radiator, with Hall Meriah fans, keeps her car running
   at
      a rock-solid 180 degrees in all conditions, including extended
   periods
      of idling in Las Vegas traffic with ambient temps nearing 100
   degrees,
      and has been doing so now for years.
      Yes, you could spend a ton of money on an all-new setup.  But as
   long
      as your existing core is good (and why wouldn't it be?), you should
   be
      able to get minor leaks repaired easily for a fraction of the cost
   of
      buying a new Hall replacement radiator, never mind the megabuck
   setup.
      One tremendous advantage of a brass radiator (any brass radiator) is
      that it can normally be repaired easily if it suffers damage when
      you're on the road.  The aluminum radiators are glued together and
      normally not easily repaired--if they can be repaired at all.  So
   while
      Hall recently failed to warranty their product per Chuck's
   testimony,
      at least their product is infinitely repairable.
      A Mangusta owner from England who was driving to the south of France
      earlier this month wound up going home on a tow truck because his
      radiator sprung a leak and it dribbled much of his coolant
   overboard.
      He failed to notice the water temp increase, but the subsequent oil
      temp increase and Expensive Noises from the engine got his
   attention!
      Had he been paying attention and thought about the problem a little
      bit, he could have easily had the car repaired and saved his
   vacation,
      since apparently the engine is actually unhurt and was simply
   rattling
      a bit due to the lifters not lifting as much due to the hot, thin
   oil.
      As it is, since he's not mechanically savvy he took the safe option
   and
      had the car towed back to England.  But if he had an aluminum
   radiator,
      likely that would have been his only recourse.
      Just FWIW....
      Mike
   _______________________________________________
   Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
   Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
   DeTomaso mailing list
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   To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
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   message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
   or approve the archiving of list messages.


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