[DeTomaso] Headlights and rust pockets

[Stephen]

I am in the process of getting ready for the Pantera NW tour this fall up
into Canada, taking care of little things to make the car that much nicer -
at least in my eyes:

	Installing Kirk Evans quad headlight kit, 
	Installing the new back-window for the engine bay and an engine-bay
cooling fan, 
	and, the stretch goal:
	Installing remote door locks and security system.  

The first thing on the list is the headlights.  I can remember the first
time I drove 5332 in the dark.  It was just plain scary - as in I couldn't
read the gauges, and the headlights were a joke.  Funny, as part of
installing Kirk's lights - which I heartily endorse - I think I see one of
the reasons the headlights were so ineffective.  I'll explain below.

None the less, to my eye, the car looks fantastic with the lower opening for
the headlight buckets. 

Since I had the headlight buckets out I figured it would be a good time to
inspect the inside of the front of the fenders.  And, low and behold, found
a cavity that was full of sand and gravel - and clearly had been wet in the
past.  The first three photo's in this gallery show where the cavity is, and
give some idea of how much crud had accumulated.
http://www.snclocks.com/TheRestofourWorld/Autos/Technical-Bits/   After
scraping and vacuuming, I sealed the area with undercoating.

Note, if you want more detail for any of the pictures - click on the larger
picture - it will then go full-screen.  To return to the gallery - click on
the "X" in the upper right corner, or just hit "esc".

Once I was finished with the head-light bucket mods and had the new lights
fitted I realized it was a good time to replace the plastic gear in the
headlight lifting mechanism.  So, out comes the motor and gear assembly.
Somewhere I read you can wiggle it out.  Yup, lots of wiggling.  Lots.  But,
take your time - it will come out - even with the great radiator/fans I got
from Pantera Performance, and even with a pet-cock on the radiator lower
drain.

First thing I learned was at least a part of why the headlights were such
poor performers.  The rise and fall of the headlights is limited by a couple
of switches.  The switches are activated by adjustable stops - with rubber
pads on the end of the adjustable stops.  The rubber pad for the lower stop
apparently pushes pretty much straight into the arm on the switch - it was
in good shape.  The rubber pad for the upper stop - well, it apparently
slides across the arm on the switch - and wears pretty significantly.  Check
out the next picture in the gallery.  With the worn rubber end the mechanism
had to travel farther to reach the switch - resulting in the headlights
shooting up into the sky.

Since I had it out, next I took apart the motor.  Hmmm - looks like the
bearing on the output side of the motor has been spinning in the housing -
see next photo.  I drilled the rivets, flattened the fingers that hold the
bearing in place, cleaned everything up, reversed the bearing, and riveted
it back in place.

And wow - one of the permanent magnets had come loose and moved over beside
the other magnet.  The next photo shows the loose magnet being clamped in
place while the JB-Weld cures.  Motor is now back together and spins right
nice.

Bit more inspection found that the post that the manual-raising gear turns
on was also loose and spinning in its housing - see next photo.  Staking the
back of the post with a punch solved that problem.

Hopefully tomorrow I will get the mechanism back together and be able to get
it back in the car.  

As part of Kirk's headlight kit he provides a mechanical stop for the
raising mechanism to minimize headlight movement when the lights are up.
Installing the stop pretty much requires that the raising mechanism be out
of the way.  Another good reason to pull the mechanism and go through it.

Hopefully, with the photos, this all makes sense.  May have to clean this up
and send it in for publication - once the dust settles from the Board
reorganization.

Stephen Nelson 5332