[DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
Curt Hall
cuvee at sbcglobal.net
Fri Sep 18 14:15:30 EDT 2015
If you smell gas...Find the leak and Fix it! The fuel tank is just to close to the Headers.
You don't want things to go BOOM!!!
Don't ask how I know this!
On Friday, September 18, 2015 6:53 AM, Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com> wrote:
Robert,
I too only had small leak, no visible signs of fuel but it would have a
fuel odor around the car. I was surprised how big the leak was once I
got to it, don't underestimate how much the fiberglass acts like a wick
soaking up the fuel, then all it requires at some point is an ignition
source........
Julian
__________________________________________________________________
From: npdrs at maui.net
To: julian_kift at hotmail.com; jderyke at aol.com; detomaso at poca.com
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2015 19:38:40 -1000
Hi All,
thanks for all suggestions!
One thing I am not sure about; would later steel tank (or SS replica
sold by vendors) fit directly into my early 71 car or would I need to
do any modifications to make it fit?
I will probably try to somehow firs locate the hole without taking the
tank (and engine) out of the car, although this might be impossible
since there is a protection shield and then fiberglass in place...all
squeezed really close to my 180 degree headers.
The point is that leak is really, really small as it only makes corner
of fiberglass wet, but is not enough to make a drop.
I guess I will monitor it carefully and then go through trouble of
getting the tank out, removing the fiberglass and then inspecting
carefully the tank to find out what is actually wrong.
All the best, Robert
From: Julian Kift [mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 8:32 AM
To: Jack Deryke; npdrs at maui.net; De Tomaso List
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
As it is an aluminum tank, it is less likely the leak is from
corrosion, so maybe a seam or as my steel tank did a contact wear
point. My steel tank wore through on the shoulder where it narrows and
was touching the inner fender. It would weep and smell of gas in the
garage the next morning after filling the tank more than 3/4 full. I
was fortunately able to remove the tank strap and move the tank over
enough to be able to sand and effect a bondo repair (the stuff
specifically for gas tanks) until the next time the engine was out.
Julian
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2015 14:21:54 -0400
To: [1]npdrs at maui.net; [2]detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
From: [3]detomaso at poca.com
Early tanks were indeed aluminum, and the geniuses at the DOT forced Ford to wra
p the aluminum with fiberglas as 'protection' against cracking. It is one layer
thick and likely has long ago debonded. I would remove ALL the useless fiberglas
so the actual leak can be located. Then since it seems small, Devcon or Bondo a
re both totally fuel-proof when cured- even the witches brew we're sold as "gaso
line" these days. A pinhole in our tank was fixed with Bondo 15 years ago and st
ill no leaks. Of course, TIG welding can also be done. Std steel tanks can repla
ce it as well but early tanks are different shape than later ones. See the write
-up in your Newsletter a few years ago on what Ted Mitchell had to go thru to ad
apt an early tank to a later car. Good luck- J DeRyke
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Stroj <[4]npdrs at maui.net>
To: detomaso <[5]detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2015 5:42 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
Hello,
I got early 71 car and my fuel tank looks as it is wrapped in
fiberglass and
painted black.
I tried with the magnet and actual tank is
non-magnetic; is it aluminum?
Problem is that it must have a tiny leak as I see
one corner on the bottom
always being wet, but it is not enough to actually
make the fuel drip.
Are there any suggestions on best way to deal with this
problem?
I understand one needs to take the motor out to get to the tank?
Is
there a good way to repair/reseal my tank or is the best option to
replace it
with new one?
What is best option/where to buy a replacement tank that would
fit in stock
location.
Thanks,
Robert
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-------------- next part --------------
If you smell gas...Find the leak and Fix it! The fuel tank is just to
close to the Headers.
You don't want things to go BOOM!!!
Don't ask how I know this!
On Friday, September 18, 2015 6:53 AM, Julian Kift
<julian_kift at hotmail.com> wrote:
Robert,
I too only had small leak, no visible signs of fuel but it would have
a
fuel odor around the car. I was surprised how big the leak was once I
got to it, don't underestimate how much the fiberglass acts like a
wick
soaking up the fuel, then all it requires at some point is an
ignition
source........
Julian
__________________________________________________________________
From: [1]npdrs at maui.net
To: [2]julian_kift at hotmail.com; [3]jderyke at aol.com;
[4]detomaso at poca.com
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2015 19:38:40 -1000
Hi All,
thanks for all suggestions!
One thing I am not sure about; would later steel tank (or SS replica
sold by vendors) fit directly into my early 71 car or would I need to
do any modifications to make it fit?
I will probably try to somehow firs locate the hole without taking
the
tank (and engine) out of the car, although this might be impossible
since there is a protection shield and then fiberglass in place...all
squeezed really close to my 180 degree headers.
The point is that leak is really, really small as it only makes
corner
of fiberglass wet, but is not enough to make a drop.
I guess I will monitor it carefully and then go through trouble of
getting the tank out, removing the fiberglass and then inspecting
carefully the tank to find out what is actually wrong.
All the best, Robert
From: Julian Kift [mailto:[5]julian_kift at hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 8:32 AM
To: Jack Deryke; [6]npdrs at maui.net; De Tomaso List
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
As it is an aluminum tank, it is less likely the leak is from
corrosion, so maybe a seam or as my steel tank did a contact wear
point. My steel tank wore through on the shoulder where it narrows
and
was touching the inner fender. It would weep and smell of gas in the
garage the next morning after filling the tank more than 3/4 full. I
was fortunately able to remove the tank strap and move the tank over
enough to be able to sand and effect a bondo repair (the stuff
specifically for gas tanks) until the next time the engine was out.
Julian
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2015 14:21:54 -0400
To: [1][7]npdrs at maui.net; [2][8]detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
From: [3][9]detomaso at poca.com
Early tanks were indeed aluminum, and the geniuses at the DOT forced
Ford to wra
p the aluminum with fiberglas as 'protection' against cracking. It is
one layer
thick and likely has long ago debonded. I would remove ALL the useless
fiberglas
so the actual leak can be located. Then since it seems small, Devcon or
Bondo a
re both totally fuel-proof when cured- even the witches brew we're sold
as "gaso
line" these days. A pinhole in our tank was fixed with Bondo 15 years
ago and st
ill no leaks. Of course, TIG welding can also be done. Std steel tanks
can repla
ce it as well but early tanks are different shape than later ones. See
the write
-up in your Newsletter a few years ago on what Ted Mitchell had to go
thru to ad
apt an early tank to a later car. Good luck- J DeRyke
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Stroj <[4][10]npdrs at maui.net>
To: detomaso <[5][11]detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2015 5:42 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
Hello,
I got early 71 car and my fuel tank looks as it is wrapped in
fiberglass and
painted black.
I tried with the magnet and actual tank is
non-magnetic; is it aluminum?
Problem is that it must have a tiny leak as I see
one corner on the bottom
always being wet, but it is not enough to actually
make the fuel drip.
Are there any suggestions on best way to deal with this
problem?
I understand one needs to take the motor out to get to the tank?
Is
there a good way to repair/reseal my tank or is the best option to
replace it
with new one?
What is best option/where to buy a replacement tank that would
fit in stock
location.
Thanks,
Robert
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