[DeTomaso] pre L Pantera aluminum gas tank

[cengles at cox.net]

Dear Robert,



                Ah, fitment issues with a pre L push button and parts 
meant for later L model Panteras.

               I happen to know that a friend and his son discovered 
that a real problem does exist.  IIRC, they had a leaky late model gas 
tank and a non functioning pre L with an aluminum gas tank.  The plan 
was to put the pre L tank in the L Pantera.  The tanks are not the same 
and it was not a simple "bolt in" swap.   I suspect that if the exercise 
was done in reverse, i.e. late model L tank installed in an early pre L 
Pantera, then there would be a PITA fitment issue.

                IMHO, I would pull the tank, remove the fiberglass and 
have it cleaned and repaired and bolted back in.   I just did this with 
my late '74 Pantera.  The removal was duck soup *after* removal of the 
drive train.   IIRC, a new tank was at or north of $1000.   Repairs were 
$450.....and aluminum is easier to weld, work with and repair than 
steel.


                             Warmest regards, Chuck Engles




On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 12:38 AM, Robert Stroj wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
> thanks for all suggestions!
>
> One thing I am not sure about; would later steel tank (or SS replica 
> sold by
> vendors) fit directly into my early 71 car or would I need to do any
> modifications to make it fit?
>
> I will probably try to somehow firs locate the hole without taking the 
> tank
> (and engine) out of the car, although this might be impossible since 
> there
> is a protection shield and then fiberglass in place...all squeezed 
> really
> close to my 180 degree headers.
>
>
> The point is that leak is really, really small as it only makes corner 
> of
> fiberglass wet, but is not enough to make a drop.
>
> I guess I will monitor it carefully and then go through trouble of 
> getting
> the tank out, removing the fiberglass and then inspecting carefully 
> the tank
> to find out what is actually wrong.
>
>
> All the best, Robert
>
>
> From: Julian Kift [mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, 
> September 17, 2015 8:32 AM
> To: Jack Deryke; npdrs at maui.net; De Tomaso List
> Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
>
>
> As it is an aluminum tank, it is less likely the leak is from 
> corrosion, so
> maybe a seam or as my steel tank did a contact wear point. My steel 
> tank
> wore through on the shoulder where it narrows and was touching the 
> inner
> fender. It would weep and smell of gas in the garage the next morning 
> after
> filling the tank more than 3/4 full. I was fortunately able to remove 
> the
> tank strap and move the tank over enough to be able to sand and effect 
> a
> bondo repair (the stuff specifically for gas tanks) until the next 
> time the
> engine was out.
>  Julian
>
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2015 14:21:54 -0400
> To: npdrs at maui.net; detomaso at poca.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
> From: detomaso at poca.com
>
> Early tanks were indeed aluminum, and the geniuses at the DOT forced 
> Ford to
> wrap the aluminum with fiberglas as 'protection' against cracking. It 
> is one
> layer thick and likely has long ago debonded. I would remove ALL the 
> useless
> fiberglas so the actual leak can be located. Then since it seems 
> small,
> Devcon or Bondo are both totally fuel-proof when cured- even the 
> witches
> brew we're sold as "gasoline" these days. A pinhole in our tank was 
> fixed
> with Bondo 15 years ago and still no leaks. Of course, TIG welding can 
> also
> be done. Std steel tanks can replace it as well but early tanks are
> different shape than later ones. See the write-up in your Newsletter a 
> few
> years ago on what Ted Mitchell had to go thru to adapt an early tank 
> to a
> later car. Good luck- J DeRyke
>       -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Stroj <npdrs at maui.net>
> To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
> Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2015 5:42 pm
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] DeTomaso Digest, Vol 135, Issue 16
>   Hello,
>  I got early 71 car and my fuel tank looks as it is wrapped in
> fiberglass and
> painted black. I tried with the magnet and actual tank is
> non-magnetic; is it aluminum?
> Problem is that it must have a tiny leak as I see
> one corner on the bottom
> always being wet, but it is not enough to actually
> make the fuel drip.
> Are there any suggestions on best way to deal with this
> problem?
> I understand one needs to take the motor out to get to the tank?
> Is
> there a good way to repair/reseal my tank or is the best option to
> replace it
> with new one?
> What is best option/where to buy a replacement tank that would
> fit in stock
> location.  Thanks,
> Robert
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