[DeTomaso] Techno question: a fine mess

[Joseph F. Byrd, Jr.]

Do you have a voltmeter to see if the battery voltage is also going up and
down?

I would first think a loss connection.  The alternator ground is usually
through the bracket, so oxide surface faces could give high resistance.
Joe/NC

-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Engles
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2015 18:41 PM
To: MikeLDrew at aol.com
Cc: detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Techno question: a fine mess

Dear Forum,

 

 

                     Thanks for all the tips and options.   I will digest
them and attack the problem on Friday evening.

 

                      Is there a plausible explanation for the ammeter's bad
behavior with the replacement stock alternator??       ....or is it just
some peculiarity of the replacement alternator??

 

                                Warmest regards,  Chuck Engles  (less
flummoxed)

 

 

 

 

From: MikeLDrew at aol.com [mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2015 1:06 PM
To: cengles at cox.net
Cc: detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Techno question: a fine mess

 


In a message dated 10/7/15 6 01 58, hoppe1 at cox.net writes:





>                 I installed the back up stock alternator.   I tested the
>    engine at idle and I am crushed that the noise is still there.
>    So....the noise is from one of the belts or from the idler pulley.


>>>Right.  You'd be amazed at how noisy a perfectly good-looking belt 
>>>can
be.

Belts are cheap and consumable; those living in an enclosed engine bay like
the Pantera's don't benefit from airflow as they do in a front-engined car,
so probably have a shorter effective lifespan.  You rarely get access to the
front of the engine, so now is probably a good time to change them anyway.

The idler pulley bearing can make one hell of a racket.  You can buy a
replacement bearing, then press (or have a machine shop press) the old
bearing out and the new bearing in.  But the bearing is expensive, and labor
adds further to the cost.  

Your local NAPA auto parts store has a replacement pulley with bearing,
ready to bolt on, that costs less than the cost of just a replacement
bearing for your old pulley.  It is slightly larger in outside diameter, but
otherwise functions identically and allows the use of the same-size belt.  

Part number is Duralast 231036.  Cost is about $13-15 if memory serves,
while just a replacement bearing for your old pulley is more like $25, and
you haven't started paying machine shop costs.  

Changing the belts first will determine if you need the pulley.  If you
don't, just return it.  And if you do, have it in your hands and install
that next.

There, you fixed it. :>)

Mike