[DeTomaso] Front lid modification

Julian Kift julian_kift at hotmail.com
Mon Oct 5 21:28:41 EDT 2015


?? But he's got a V8

> From: mbefthomas at comcast.net
> To: mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk; detomaso at poca.com
> Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2015 13:02:51 -0700
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Front lid modification
> 
> That's definitely one of those "coulda had a V-8" moments.  Very simple and
> elegant.  Nicely done.  One more added to my restoration list.
> 
> Mike Thomas
> Pres., Panteras Northwest
> Yellow '74 #6328
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf Of Mikael
> Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2015 10:24 AM
> To: detomaso at poca.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Front lid modification
> 
> So, have you ever like me worried that the front lid might due to wind blow
> up and then down as the rod fell out and then maybe damage the paint? And
> have you like me never thrown out anything DeTomaso, not even rear deck lid
> gas shocks that had gotten too weak?
> 
>  
> 
> If yes, here's an easy modification to support the opening of the front lid.
> Use one of the weak rear lid gas shocks in the front! I don't know if this
> modification has been done before, but I haven't seen it. 
> 
>  
> 
> It fits perfectly on the lower part of the lid and bolted to the underside
> of the front trunk area. The two bolts in the trunk area will be invisible
> when I put my fire extinguisher back in the floppy bracket/holder, if you
> don't have that, just have the bolts beneath the carpeting. The weak part
> right now is the bracket on the lid. There's not enough material to drill
> and cut threads, so right now it's only attached with screws. If they start
> to come loose, I'll have to weld the bracket in place, very careful with
> just one weld at each end and wet rags on both sides of the lid to avoid
> paint being damaged by heat.
> 
>  
> 
> It took me an hour to install after some hours online finding the right
> brackets and bushings. It works perfectly, better than I had expected. The
> lid can stay up if on the last 10 inches upwards. Beneath that, it slowly
> closes, no banging down. Just like the rear lid actually.
> 
>  
> 
> Remember that the placement of the bracket on the underside of the trunk
> decides how high the lid opens. Mine opens exactly like when using the rod.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Mvh/Regards
> 
> Mikael
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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-------------- next part --------------
   ?? But he's got a V8
   > From: mbefthomas at comcast.net
   > To: mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk; detomaso at poca.com
   > Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2015 13:02:51 -0700
   > Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Front lid modification
   >
   > That's definitely one of those "coulda had a V-8" moments. Very
   simple and
   > elegant. Nicely done. One more added to my restoration list.
   >
   > Mike Thomas
   > Pres., Panteras Northwest
   > Yellow '74 #6328
   >
   >
   >
   > -----Original Message-----
   > From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf Of Mikael
   > Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2015 10:24 AM
   > To: detomaso at poca.com
   > Subject: [DeTomaso] Front lid modification
   >
   > So, have you ever like me worried that the front lid might due to
   wind blow
   > up and then down as the rod fell out and then maybe damage the paint?
   And
   > have you like me never thrown out anything DeTomaso, not even rear
   deck lid
   > gas shocks that had gotten too weak?
   >
   >
   >
   > If yes, here's an easy modification to support the opening of the
   front lid.
   > Use one of the weak rear lid gas shocks in the front! I don't know if
   this
   > modification has been done before, but I haven't seen it.
   >
   >
   >
   > It fits perfectly on the lower part of the lid and bolted to the
   underside
   > of the front trunk area. The two bolts in the trunk area will be
   invisible
   > when I put my fire extinguisher back in the floppy bracket/holder, if
   you
   > don't have that, just have the bolts beneath the carpeting. The weak
   part
   > right now is the bracket on the lid. There's not enough material to
   drill
   > and cut threads, so right now it's only attached with screws. If they
   start
   > to come loose, I'll have to weld the bracket in place, very careful
   with
   > just one weld at each end and wet rags on both sides of the lid to
   avoid
   > paint being damaged by heat.
   >
   >
   >
   > It took me an hour to install after some hours online finding the
   right
   > brackets and bushings. It works perfectly, better than I had
   expected. The
   > lid can stay up if on the last 10 inches upwards. Beneath that, it
   slowly
   > closes, no banging down. Just like the rear lid actually.
   >
   >
   >
   > Remember that the placement of the bracket on the underside of the
   trunk
   > decides how high the lid opens. Mine opens exactly like when using
   the rod.
   >
   >
   >
   >
   >
   > Mvh/Regards
   >
   > Mikael
   >
   >
   >
   >
   >
   > _______________________________________________
   >
   > Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
   > Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
   > DeTomaso mailing list
   > DeTomaso at poca.com
   > http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
   >
   > To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
   use the links above.


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