[DeTomaso] Replaced rear brake pads, was Re: Porterfield rear brake pads

Pantdino pantdino at aol.com
Mon Nov 30 23:39:38 EST 2015


Garth, 

Are you sure that piston is actually working and not still stuck in the depth of the bore?

In my limited experience one should be able to be push a piston all the way in with ones hands.  If you can't it means the piston is dragging in the bore and you should take out the piston and clean it and the bore so it slides in pretty easily

Jim

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On Monday, November 30, 2015, Garth Rodericks via DeTomaso <detomaso at poca.com> wrote:

The problem I had after installing my new Porterfield pads years ago was the caliper pistons on the rear right wheel got stuck in their bores because of all the gunk/varnish that built up in there there over the years - it had been a long time since the pistons were pushed that far back into their bores. Calipers released after a few good whacks with the handle of a screwdriver as well as letting things cool down - don't know which really solved the problem, but they haven't stuck since. --- Original Message --- Well, yesterday I replaced the rear pads on one side, ran out of daylight before I could do the other side. Wasn't too difficult, had never tampered with that aspect of the car before, I s uspect no one else had either. Didn't realize / had forgotten that a piston pokes out both sides of the caliper cylinder ... wasn't too difficult to turn the slotted piston 45 deg., but wasn' t easy either. Wound up cutting the blade off a Craftsman square-shank screwdri ver to make a "special tool". Piston retracted easily once turned 45 and with t he bleeder open. The metal frame however, that pushes the outboard pad into the disc, was difficu lt to slide outboard to accommodate the new, much thicker pad. Took infinity of dead-blow hammer strikes. Old pads pretty thin at 75K miles, I suppose the p-valve is working or did work at one time. Wondering now how often the seals fail after a pad change, from all the turning and sliding of the piston. Are rebuild seals and parts still available? Thanks, GD _______________________________________________ Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso at poca.com http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above.
-------------- next part --------------
   Garth,

   Are you sure that piston is actually working and not still stuck in the
   depth of the bore?

   In my limited experience one should be able to be push a piston all the
   way in with ones hands.  If you can't it means the piston is dragging
   in the bore and you should take out the piston and clean it and the
   bore so it slides in pretty easily

   Jim
   Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
   On Monday, November 30, 2015, Garth Rodericks via
   DeTomaso <[1]detomaso at poca.com> wrote:

     The problem I had after installing my new Porterfield pads years ago
     was the caliper pistons on the rear right wheel got stuck in their
     bores because of all the gunk/varnish that built up in there there
     over the years - it had been a long time since the pistons were
     pushed that far back into their bores. Calipers released after a few
     good whacks with the handle of a screwdriver as well as letting
     things cool down - don't know which really solved the problem, but
     they haven't stuck since. --- Original Message --- Well, yesterday I
     replaced the rear pads on one side, ran out of daylight before I
     could do the other side. Wasn't too difficult, had never tampered
     with that aspect of the car before, I s uspect no one else had
     either. Didn't realize / had forgotten that a piston pokes out both
     sides of the caliper cylinder ... wasn't too difficult to turn the
     slotted piston 45 deg., but wasn' t easy either. Wound up cutting
     the blade off a Craftsman square-shank screwdri ver to make a
     "special tool". Piston retracted easily once turned 45 and with t he
     bleeder open. The metal frame however, that pushes the outboard pad
     into the disc, was difficu lt to slide outboard to accommodate the
     new, much thicker pad. Took infinity of dead-blow hammer strikes.
     Old pads pretty thin at 75K miles, I suppose the p-valve is working
     or did work at one time. Wondering now how often the seals fail
     after a pad change, from all the turning and sliding of the piston.
     Are rebuild seals and parts still available? Thanks, GD
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