[DeTomaso] Replaced rear brake pads, was Re: Porterfield rear brake pads
Pantdino
pantdino at aol.com
Mon Nov 30 23:39:38 EST 2015
Garth,
Are you sure that piston is actually working and not still stuck in the depth of the bore?
In my limited experience one should be able to be push a piston all the way in with ones hands. If you can't it means the piston is dragging in the bore and you should take out the piston and clean it and the bore so it slides in pretty easily
Jim
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On Monday, November 30, 2015, Garth Rodericks via DeTomaso <detomaso at poca.com> wrote:
The problem I had after installing my new Porterfield pads years ago was the caliper pistons on the rear right wheel got stuck in their bores because of all the gunk/varnish that built up in there there over the years - it had been a long time since the pistons were pushed that far back into their bores. Calipers released after a few good whacks with the handle of a screwdriver as well as letting things cool down - don't know which really solved the problem, but they haven't stuck since. --- Original Message --- Well, yesterday I replaced the rear pads on one side, ran out of daylight before I could do the other side. Wasn't too difficult, had never tampered with that aspect of the car before, I s uspect no one else had either. Didn't realize / had forgotten that a piston pokes out both sides of the caliper cylinder ... wasn't too difficult to turn the slotted piston 45 deg., but wasn' t easy either. Wound up cutting the blade off a Craftsman square-shank screwdri ver to make a "special tool". Piston retracted easily once turned 45 and with t he bleeder open. The metal frame however, that pushes the outboard pad into the disc, was difficu lt to slide outboard to accommodate the new, much thicker pad. Took infinity of dead-blow hammer strikes. Old pads pretty thin at 75K miles, I suppose the p-valve is working or did work at one time. Wondering now how often the seals fail after a pad change, from all the turning and sliding of the piston. Are rebuild seals and parts still available? Thanks, GD _______________________________________________ Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso at poca.com http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above.
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Garth,
Are you sure that piston is actually working and not still stuck in the
depth of the bore?
In my limited experience one should be able to be push a piston all the
way in with ones hands. If you can't it means the piston is dragging
in the bore and you should take out the piston and clean it and the
bore so it slides in pretty easily
Jim
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Monday, November 30, 2015, Garth Rodericks via
DeTomaso <[1]detomaso at poca.com> wrote:
The problem I had after installing my new Porterfield pads years ago
was the caliper pistons on the rear right wheel got stuck in their
bores because of all the gunk/varnish that built up in there there
over the years - it had been a long time since the pistons were
pushed that far back into their bores. Calipers released after a few
good whacks with the handle of a screwdriver as well as letting
things cool down - don't know which really solved the problem, but
they haven't stuck since. --- Original Message --- Well, yesterday I
replaced the rear pads on one side, ran out of daylight before I
could do the other side. Wasn't too difficult, had never tampered
with that aspect of the car before, I s uspect no one else had
either. Didn't realize / had forgotten that a piston pokes out both
sides of the caliper cylinder ... wasn't too difficult to turn the
slotted piston 45 deg., but wasn' t easy either. Wound up cutting
the blade off a Craftsman square-shank screwdri ver to make a
"special tool". Piston retracted easily once turned 45 and with t he
bleeder open. The metal frame however, that pushes the outboard pad
into the disc, was difficu lt to slide outboard to accommodate the
new, much thicker pad. Took infinity of dead-blow hammer strikes.
Old pads pretty thin at 75K miles, I suppose the p-valve is working
or did work at one time. Wondering now how often the seals fail
after a pad change, from all the turning and sliding of the piston.
Are rebuild seals and parts still available? Thanks, GD
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